01-07-2021, 08:42 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2015 2SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 8
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Oil dipstick tube stuck!!!!!
In the middle of header install. Drivers side header is in, moved to the passenger side, and the part that I thought would be one of the easiest turned out to be the hardest. The dipstick tube is stuck and yes, I did remove 15mm bolt that holds it to the head. Tried pulling it, sprayed with pb bluster, even heated up the area with the heat gun, but the thing wouldn't budge. I don't want to break off the tube, and have a piece of it stuck in the block, but I am also running out of options. Anyone had this problem? Any ideas on how to get it out are appreciated!
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01-08-2021, 04:38 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2013 L99 Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 185
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That’s weird. I don’t remember it being difficult to remove, but it has been a couple years. Does it wiggle or twist at all? Maybe wedged under exhaust manifold or something?
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01-08-2021, 05:47 AM | #3 |
waiting at the tree
Drives: SIM 2010 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Niagara Falls
Posts: 3,263
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My 99 TA was a bit of a pain so I gave it a bit of a twist with some pliers.
I gripped it a low down as I could and rocked it back and forth while pulling up and she came out. Good Luck with it.
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2010 2SS/RS A6 ZL1 Rims
60ft 2.03 13.08 at 107.82 (4/28) 2009 Pontiac G8 3.6L the DD |
01-08-2021, 12:45 PM | #4 |
2&THEHIT
Drives: 5th Gen Camaro; 5th Gen Ram 3500 Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 1,015
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Hmm, interesting.
It should be pretty easy. It’s not a tight fit. I would wiggle it a little while pulling up. There is an oring that you might wanna replace after heating it up. |
01-08-2021, 01:07 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2015 2SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 8
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Thanks for reply everyone! I pulled the starter and it looks a little rusted right at the base where it goes into the block. Honestly not sure how much twisting it will take before snapping, but doesn't look like I have any other options. Anyone had it break before?
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01-08-2021, 01:14 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,181
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01-08-2021, 02:56 PM | #7 | |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,780
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Quote:
I seem remember it being a little tough to remove on the vert (it was over 70k), but a little wiggle and a lot pull got it out. There is a little lip where it seats in the block, so maybe a thin stubby screwdriver might help pry it up, but be gentle and don't choose a thick blade. Hell, maybe a knife.
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
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01-08-2021, 06:54 PM | #8 | |
Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Bayville, NJ
Posts: 936
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There are tools to help extract - https://shop.snapon.com/product/supp...ctor/PMXPTE120
https://www.freedomracing.com/4-8l-5...RoCM-MQAvD_BwE Some use regular & self taping bolts -
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2010 1SS LS3, Black, 235/250, .621/.615, 114 + 4, Kooks Stepped Headers, 3.91's, Bo White PTB, Flowmaster Mufflers, Cold Air Industries CAI, Apex Scoop & Windshield Washer Relocate, SLP Wheels, Skip Shift Eliminate, Barton Flat Stick, OEM HID/Halos, Dyno Tuned by ECS
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01-09-2021, 07:35 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2015 2SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 8
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Thank you everyone who has replied, I was finally able to get it out all in one piece! The o ring is almost nonexistent, I think the combination of long track sessions in the summer, and Boston salt roads in the winter completely rust welded the oil dipstick tube to the block. So, for everyone who will have similar issue in the future this is how I was able to get it out.
1) You'll have to take the starter out and move all the wires out of the way. 2) Soak the place where the tube goes into the block with penetrating fluid. I used a whole can of PB blaster. Spray it often and try to spin the tube with vice grip pliers from the bottom. You can apply some heat to the area, but I did not find it particularly useful. 3) Once the tube spins enough to where the manifold restricts further movement, attach vice grip pliers to tab that holds the tube to the head. I don't recommend attaching it to the opening where the dipstick goes, because it will deform and after a couple of strikes with the slide hammer, it will come off and you'll hit the inside of your hood with the top of the slide hammer, leaving a dent. (ask me how I know...) And there you go, eventually after a couple of hard strikes with the slide hammer it should come out. |
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