1988 Ford Bronco II XLT

[Hellfighter]

Originally Posted by TheReaper

Sounds like you have a plan. The springs should be fine and adding new shocks will tighten things up.

Hmm some shocks i find have coils on them and some dont, which are better for stree / off road sometime type.

[TheReaper]

For a DD I would go with the street shocks.

[Hellfighter]

Originally Posted by TheReaper

For a DD I would go with the street shocks.

'

Thanks on the input, and the help.

[Hellfighter]

Anyone have any idea why the car idles poorly somtime? and rough start? sometimes idle at lights and the arrow keeps going up to 1k then dropping to 700, then back then down and not stable? Also the rear antilock symbol is still on and i replaces completely entire front brakes, calipers, drums. have not touched the drums yet.

[_Nick_]

Could be a dirty throttle body, faulty TPS or IAC.

[Mishimoto]

Pull your rear drums and make sure there is not anything wrong happening in there first. If it all checks out, then go further.

There should be a sensor on top of the rear for the rear ABS. I would first check to make sure the approriate fuse is installed for the ABS, and that it's good. Once you're good there, visually check the wiring that runs to the sensor for bare spots, pinched by brake lines or missing. If that checks out, I'd soak the bolt that holds the ABS sensor for a week or so in PB then remove and clean sensor. It's not a real complex system, so a Haynes or Chilton manual can walk you through it.

I'd say your IAC is causing your problems. If you want to double check it is at fault before buying a new one, buy a book mentioned above and it will tell you how to check it. If you find someone who has a book and no Bronco II anymore, they would probably give it to you for free.

[Hellfighter]

Originally Posted by Mishimoto

Pull your rear drums and make sure there is not anything wrong happening in there first. If it all checks out, then go further.

There should be a sensor on top of the rear for the rear ABS. I would first check to make sure the approriate fuse is installed for the ABS, and that it's good. Once you're good there, visually check the wiring that runs to the sensor for bare spots, pinched by brake lines or missing. If that checks out, I'd soak the bolt that holds the ABS sensor for a week or so in PB then remove and clean sensor. It's not a real complex system, so a Haynes or Chilton manual can walk you through it.

I'd say your IAC is causing your problems. If you want to double check it is at fault before buying a new one, buy a book mentioned above and it will tell you how to check it. If you find someone who has a book and no Bronco II anymore, they would probably give it to you for free.

I have a manual on the car thats how i was able to change the rotors and calipers ^_^. Here is another problem, rough idle, the needle jumps from 1k down to 600 or 700 then 1k then back again and stay's stable and then back and fourth until i go. and also at constant speed around 3d gear i get loss of power it feels weak and then i press the pedal down harder. and the car jolts... and increases speed super fast. not sure if that explains.

[Mishimoto]

Did you check your Idle Air Control(IAC) yet to make sure it's functioning properly? That could cause the rough/jumpy idle.

You may also be a victim of bad ignition components, you changed your plugs but what about the cap, rotor and wires? Did you replace or check the air filter and make sure nothing made a home in the air intake system? Have you changed the fuel filter? I'd start with the IAC first before going to other things.

[Hellfighter]

New Air Filter, New Oil Filter and new Oil change, New Motorcraft Fuel Injectors, Same Bosch Injector Wires, New front Brakes, calipers, disks, New Radiator top hose, new Master Cylinder, New Wheather Stripping in tailgate. Previous owner said he changed out new Fuel Pump, cause he cut a square in the back above the pump and put foam in it instead of dropping the tank like a good person... These are the only things i have done so far. This weekend i will be checking the rear brakes and the sensors to hopefully get rid of that stupid anti lock symbol. But as far as what you mentioned above no i have not, this is my first ford. So where is the AIT located at.

[Mishimoto]

IAC is located by/on the throttle body. How did you make out over the weekend with your plans?

[Hellfighter]

Originally Posted by Mishimoto

IAC is located by/on the throttle body. How did you make out over the weekend with your plans?

IAC is that the thing that has a blue plastic piece inside that turns the throttle switch? that piece looks quite new for a 25 year old car. and as far as plans im looking and changing pieces in my right drum today.. PITA on the left god i never want to fix drums ever again, i am hoping that changing the little gear piece , alighning the metal plate that goes in center and fixing the cable will make that stupid anti rear brake symbol go away, also changing hydrolic piston module that hooks on with the break fluid that expands and the shoes into the drum. other than that i think i found the sensor its the piece at the bottom, i just wire brushed it off and used orileys brake cleaning spray all on the pieces and got it clean as much as i can on the left side, but the error still showed, so like i said hoping the right side works... as far as surges and idle , it idls around 900 - 1000 constant now... idk what i did. But when it starts it still starts rough sounding, so i got motorcraft plug wires... im hoping that fixes it, if not , ill have to come back here. And got new tires and rims on order at discounttire

[Mishimoto]

I believe the part you were looking at would have been the Throttle Positioning Sensor. Hard to say for sure without seeing a picture.

The gear piece that you are talking about I'm guessing would be the star wheel that spins to apply tension or reduce tension(distance from shoes friction material to the drum). They often don't need replaced, unless they got knocked loose and got ground up in the drum for a while. It's important to dis-assemble them completely and clean all the rust off the threads with a wire wheel. Then it should work like new. You changed the wheel cylinder, but that shouldn't affect the ABS light at all. Just would be the cause of brake fluid leaking into the brakes and ineffective stopping power.

I'm not sure you found the sensor for the ABS, something else may be fooling you.

And plug wires often have problems when they touch/rub each other, so use the factory looms or if you need new ones, pick them up. An easy way to see if the insulation on plug wires is shot and causing an issue is to pop the hood at night with no lights on and watch for arcing to take place. I don't see the wires solving your problem though, unless they have been mismatched on cylinders or are missing parts.

[Hellfighter]

Originally Posted by Mishimoto

I believe the part you were looking at would have been the Throttle Positioning Sensor. Hard to say for sure without seeing a picture.

The gear piece that you are talking about I'm guessing would be the star wheel that spins to apply tension or reduce tension(distance from shoes friction material to the drum). They often don't need replaced, unless they got knocked loose and got ground up in the drum for a while. It's important to dis-assemble them completely and clean all the rust off the threads with a wire wheel. Then it should work like new. You changed the wheel cylinder, but that shouldn't affect the ABS light at all. Just would be the cause of brake fluid leaking into the brakes and ineffective stopping power.

I'm not sure you found the sensor for the ABS, something else may be fooling you.

And plug wires often have problems when they touch/rub each other, so use the factory looms or if you need new ones, pick them up. An easy way to see if the insulation on plug wires is shot and causing an issue is to pop the hood at night with no lights on and watch for arcing to take place. I don't see the wires solving your problem though, unless they have been mismatched on cylinders or are missing parts.

Well as far as the brakes go, we got 2 new kits for 8$ at orileys for each drum, it had new gear piece, new cable thing with a ring on it, and 2 clip like things, we also replaced the hydrolic piece that bolts on and bleed both along wit front brakes, it stops wonderful now and works good, but the stupid light is still on. but i am not sure if the wires are on right or wrong or shot, will replace them this weekend, and i think the battery needs replaced, it would not start when i turn the key, i mean everything lights up like stereo and dome lights etc. but didnt want to start until i pressed gas a tiny bit after 5th try, that was first time it ever did that, very weird...