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Old 09-15-2009, 08:03 PM   #71
rcracer78
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin Morgan View Post
I did not see that part in the Mototunes web site. I apologize and will state very clearly that you should never engine brake. I don't know if he is seeing something different with his motorcycles but I will tell everyone not to engine brake. Ever.

Accelerate from a rolling start about 5-10 miles an hour and accelerate through the gear to as fast as you want to go, say the speed limit perhaps. LOL Put car in neutral and slow down then do it again and again and again. Just load the engine. Its thats simple. make acceleration runs and load the engine.

I am at 1500 miles and engine brake all the time into corners now that I am broke in and have my first oil change. Just dont do it for a couple hundred miles. After 200-250 miles your broke in, do what ever you want.
Got it. Thanks, Darin.

couple more questions:

What RPM should I stay under?

Isn't going through all the gears bad for the rest of the drivetrain break-in? (tranny and rearend)

So I don't lay rubber off the line or chrip through the gears, right?


Really appreciate your help. Thanks again.
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Old 09-15-2009, 08:46 PM   #72
Darin Morgan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracer78 View Post
Got it. Thanks, Darin.

couple more questions:

What RPM should I stay under?

Isn't going through all the gears bad for the rest of the drivetrain break-in? (tranny and rearend)

So I don't lay rubber off the line or chrip through the gears, right?


Really appreciate your help. Thanks again.
What RPM should I stay under?
Under the rev limiter (6300rpm)

Isn't going through all the gears bad for the rest of the drivetrain break-in? (tranny and rearend)
No not at all.

So I don't lay rubber off the line or chrip through the gears, right?

You don't have to lay rubber if you don't want to.
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:53 PM   #73
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I'm looking at a 200 mile road trip when I get my car. However, I have a few questions about doing your procedure.

From what I understand, I should have a properly warmed up car. Have it in idle for 5-10 minutes and then driving it normally for 10-15 minutes. Then, I should perform “hard accelerations,” which means going from a slow speed 10-15mph until 80+mph where I switch to neutral and let to go back down.

When doing these "hard accelerations" how slow should we go before accelerating again? If I will be on a highway, it will be very risky to go under 40.

Overall, I plan to mix up my driving so that I’m not cruising at the same speed/RPM. Plus I plan to stop once for an hour or two in order to cool the engine down. Should I stop more often?

Also, I am getting an automatic, so should I do this only in Sport Mode (without padde shifters) or Drive mode?

For how long should I use these “hard acceleration” break-ins (as in how many miles before its okay to drive normally)?

I planned on keeping the Mobil 1 in my Camaro and getting oil changes at 500 miles and 1500 miles. Does this sound alright?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:03 AM   #74
the rich dude

 
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Thanks Darin. I'm an engine builder and I just learned something today. No deceling the engine. I was always taught to run them hard when new but to decel to bring oil up to the rings to cool them off, but as you stated and makes total sense, oiling the rings will just prelong how much time it takes for them to "seat" in.

I build the engines and crew chief for my freinds Pro 5.0 car. Small block Ford on alcohol with a Pro Charger. Its gone a best of a 6.55 @211 MPH.

Thanks again for the info
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:05 AM   #75
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By the way, what engine oil do you prefer? We run Royal Purple Nitro 50 in the race car but can't decide wether to run Mobil 1 in my camaro when I get it or RP?? Thanks again...
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:02 AM   #76
Darin Morgan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rich dude View Post
Thanks Darin. I'm an engine builder and I just learned something today. No deceling the engine. I was always taught to run them hard when new but to decel to bring oil up to the rings to cool them off, but as you stated and makes total sense, oiling the rings will just prelong how much time it takes for them to "seat" in.

I build the engines and crew chief for my freinds Pro 5.0 car. Small block Ford on alcohol with a Pro Charger. Its gone a best of a 6.55 @211 MPH.

Thanks again for the info
Man, that thing hauls out the back door! For that ET 211mph is smoking fast.
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2010 Camaro SS/RS IOM, 475rwhp 415ft/lbs Cam-232°/245° .612 .612 113LSA. Precision 3500 stall, New Era CAI. Reher Morrison Heads, Manifold and TB. Ferrea H-stems, dual springs, Ti-retainers. American Racing long tubes-Xpipe, High flow CATs, "S"type Borla's. 160F Thermo.
VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



Darin Morgan
-Induction R&D-EFI calibration
Reher-Morrison Racing Engines
http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmSale3.htm
Phone 817-467-7171
cell 682-559-0321



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Old 09-16-2009, 07:10 AM   #77
Darin Morgan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtellez View Post
I'm looking at a 200 mile road trip when I get my car. However, I have a few questions about doing your procedure.

From what I understand, I should have a properly warmed up car. Have it in idle for 5-10 minutes and then driving it normally for 10-15 minutes. Then, I should perform “hard accelerations,” which means going from a slow speed 10-15mph until 80+mph where I switch to neutral and let to go back down.

When doing these "hard accelerations" how slow should we go before accelerating again? If I will be on a highway, it will be very risky to go under 40.

Overall, I plan to mix up my driving so that I’m not cruising at the same speed/RPM. Plus I plan to stop once for an hour or two in order to cool the engine down. Should I stop more often?

Also, I am getting an automatic, so should I do this only in Sport Mode (without padde shifters) or Drive mode?

For how long should I use these “hard acceleration” break-ins (as in how many miles before its okay to drive normally)?

I planned on keeping the Mobil 1 in my Camaro and getting oil changes at 500 miles and 1500 miles. Does this sound alright?

Thanks for the help!
I had to take a road trip when the car only had 100 miles onit and I would not use crruise control. The whole way there I would slow to 60 then accelerate to 80 then back down. It was an hour long trip.

Do not use paddle shifter. You will end up enigne braking (you wont be able to help it) and its to easy to hit the high end limiter. At least it was for me. They take a while to get used to. Reserve that fun for after its broke it!

After 100-150 miles of hard break in, its ready to go. Idf you cant break it in HARD and want to mix it up then wait till it has at least 500 miles on it. Its hard to say and it will depend on your driving style. Like I siad, I went out and spent the entire day making runs. Most will not do that.

I changed my oil at 1300 and I should have changed sooner. I have an L99 and a lot of these L99s are burning really rich! I dont know why but the exhaust ports and plugs showed this thing to be at least 1.5 ratios rich which is really bad! I shuld have changed the il at 500 and not waited becuase the oil looked a lot darker due to running rich. I have the HP tuners software now and will fix that crap in short order.
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2010 Camaro SS/RS IOM, 475rwhp 415ft/lbs Cam-232°/245° .612 .612 113LSA. Precision 3500 stall, New Era CAI. Reher Morrison Heads, Manifold and TB. Ferrea H-stems, dual springs, Ti-retainers. American Racing long tubes-Xpipe, High flow CATs, "S"type Borla's. 160F Thermo.
VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



Darin Morgan
-Induction R&D-EFI calibration
Reher-Morrison Racing Engines
http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmSale3.htm
Phone 817-467-7171
cell 682-559-0321



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Old 09-16-2009, 07:14 AM   #78
Darin Morgan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rich dude View Post
By the way, what engine oil do you prefer? We run Royal Purple Nitro 50 in the race car but can't decide wether to run Mobil 1 in my camaro when I get it or RP?? Thanks again...
They are really good oils and just so long as you change your oil every 4000 or so, you wont have problems. I personally like the Amsoil 0W30 because it has shown to be worth 5-6 hp on the dyno every time I tried it over any other 5W30. I also have a 160 thermostat to keep the engine temp down to 180F max. If your running the stock thermostat and running at 220F+ then run the 5W30 oil.
__________________
2010 Camaro SS/RS IOM, 475rwhp 415ft/lbs Cam-232°/245° .612 .612 113LSA. Precision 3500 stall, New Era CAI. Reher Morrison Heads, Manifold and TB. Ferrea H-stems, dual springs, Ti-retainers. American Racing long tubes-Xpipe, High flow CATs, "S"type Borla's. 160F Thermo.
VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



Darin Morgan
-Induction R&D-EFI calibration
Reher-Morrison Racing Engines
http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmSale3.htm
Phone 817-467-7171
cell 682-559-0321



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Old 09-16-2009, 07:17 AM   #79
jtellez
 
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Thanks for the help!

One last question, exactly what do you mean by "engine breaking"? Is that keeping the car in D while you let it go from a high to low velocity or is it actually pressing your foot on the brake to stop or both?
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3000-Order accepted by production control: 9/10 TPW 10/05/09
3300-Order scheduled for production: 9/24
3400-Order broadcast: 10/01
3800-Order produced: 10/09
4B00-Order Placed on hold: 10/12
4200-Shipped: 10/14
5000-Delivered to the dealer: 10/27
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:22 AM   #80
Darin Morgan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtellez View Post
Thanks for the help!

One last question, exactly what do you mean by "engine breaking"? Is that keeping the car in D while you let it go from a high to low velocity or is it actually pressing your foot on the brake to stop or both?
Down shifting and letting the engine slow you down.
__________________
2010 Camaro SS/RS IOM, 475rwhp 415ft/lbs Cam-232°/245° .612 .612 113LSA. Precision 3500 stall, New Era CAI. Reher Morrison Heads, Manifold and TB. Ferrea H-stems, dual springs, Ti-retainers. American Racing long tubes-Xpipe, High flow CATs, "S"type Borla's. 160F Thermo.
VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



Darin Morgan
-Induction R&D-EFI calibration
Reher-Morrison Racing Engines
http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmSale3.htm
Phone 817-467-7171
cell 682-559-0321



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Old 09-16-2009, 04:28 PM   #81
TJ91
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Hey Darin, great thread, ii just wish i had gotten to this sooner
My 2LT/RS M6 now has 3000km on it and i find that it feels exactly the same as my brothers 05 v6 stang. I did the OM break in and regret doing this.
In all honestly, what do you say is the latest you can begin the hard break in to make a difference?
Would my rings be seated already by now? Is it too late at 1800 miles to do the hard break in? Will i actually see a performance gain or have the rings seat better? I sure hope soo, thanks in advance for any advice.
Sorry, just noticed how many questions i have in there, as you can see, im a little desperate now lol
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:15 PM   #82
the rich dude

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin Morgan View Post
They are really good oils and just so long as you change your oil every 4000 or so, you wont have problems. I personally like the Amsoil 0W30 because it has shown to be worth 5-6 hp on the dyno every time I tried it over any other 5W30. I also have a 160 thermostat to keep the engine temp down to 180F max. If your running the stock thermostat and running at 220F+ then run the 5W30 oil.
Thanks Darin. I plan on putting a ProCharger on my car so will definitely be installing a 160 degree thermostat. Would you still run the 0W30 with the blower or should I go up to the 5W30?? My car will see lots of driving including 4 hour road trips to the Okanagon
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:51 PM   #83
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Darin,

I wish I would have read this thread sooner, my l99 car has 470 miles on it, I hope I am not to late to break it in efficiently. I have not babied it to much through the first 470, but i never exceeded 4500 rpm, and never 100% floored it from almost stop and i did some shifting and engine breaks :( i didnt know (not many tho at all) ...

I just read this and immediatly went out, found a long deserted road and floored it at 7mph in S mode to about 90mph and then put it in neutral to slow down naturally till about 55-60 mph, then i ran out of road so I had to break... i did this about 11 times just now... Is it to late to still seal my rings correctly being it already had 470 on it before I did this? Hopefully not :( , and if not, should I repeat this everyday for teh next week or so? or how long should I continue this for?

I also plan on changing my oil from the factories at aroudn 1200 miles, I assume thats ok?
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:02 PM   #84
Darin Morgan
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Just load the engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky918 View Post
Darin,

I wish I would have read this thread sooner, my l99 car has 470 miles on it, I hope I am not to late to break it in efficiently. I have not babied it to much through the first 470, but i never exceeded 4500 rpm, and never 100% floored it from almost stop and i did some shifting and engine breaks :( i didnt know (not many tho at all) ...

I just read this and immediatly went out, found a long deserted road and floored it at 7mph in S mode to about 90mph and then put it in neutral to slow down naturally till about 55-60 mph, then i ran out of road so I had to break... i did this about 11 times just now... Is it to late to still seal my rings correctly being it already had 470 on it before I did this? Hopefully not :( , and if not, should I repeat this everyday for the next week or so? or how long should I continue this for?

I also plan on changing my oil from the factories at aroudn 1200 miles, I assume thats ok?
Just load the engine for a couple days. Go out and have some fun while your breaking in the engine. You also need to reset the TPS and maybe even the PCM itself. Read the L99 fuse pull thread. Reset and go lay into some more.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38964
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VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



Darin Morgan
-Induction R&D-EFI calibration
Reher-Morrison Racing Engines
http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmSale3.htm
Phone 817-467-7171
cell 682-559-0321



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