Brake pads for daily driver going to the track? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

VroomVroom · 03-19-2015, 12:10 AM

Hi,

Taking my daily driver to the track for the first time. Everyone agrees I need to replace the brake fluid with high temperature stuff, ok, no problem. But then when it comes to brake pads- yikes! It sounds like there is no pad that I can put on the car for both occasional track days and daily driving, and I've been told that the compound in Hawk pads will be really bad for the stock rotors if I go with a track pad. I'm not sure what to do here- I've been told that the OEM pads with sufficient depth will be just fine, is that my best option for the first time? I'm not necessarily tight on cash and want to make sure the car is well-prepped, but I also don't want to spend a ton of money on entirely new brake systems or spend a ton of time driving to the mechanic to switch back and forth between brake pads and ruin my stock rotors in the meantime... help?

Thank you!

Synner · 03-19-2015, 01:19 AM

OEM is best for your application.

Todd in Vancouver · 03-19-2015, 01:32 AM

I'm kinda in th e same boat. I was thinking of just changing out the OE pads to Hawk pads on my weekend track days then just pop the OE back in after the weekend so I'm not kicking the crap out of my rotors while I'm street driving. Not that I touch the breaks much anyway.

Synner · 03-19-2015, 01:36 AM

OEM will fit your needs nicely with DOT 4 fluid.

Rob@WretchedMS · 03-19-2015, 07:59 AM

it depends a lot on the track, the driver, the experience level (not track time, but knowing driving lines, braking zones, ect)

for some tracks, and some drivers stock stuff will be fine for your first time.
for other tracks, and/or other drivers stock stuff will not be enough, and you will overheat them.

You very likely do not need racing brake pads for your first time out, but better than stock may not be a bad idea. The new Hawk HP Street 5.0 pads are a great all around pad that you can use daily or for light track days, The Hawk Street Race is a bit more aggressive, but still is streetable for daily driving. (though it may be a bit noisy and dusty for some)

Brake Fluid should be changed out every 3 years on a street car, if you track the car it should be replaced much more often. Just make sure you are using something that is compatible with the existing fluid.

On your first track day, be more worried about getting the line right, getting your braking right, and NOT overdriving the corners, than being the fastest, bestest on the track. Don't hesitate to get an instructor in the car with you, (i might even say don't go on the track the first time with out one), they can help with simple things that you might not even consider that will help you, your car, and your wallet.

JDP Sales · 03-19-2015, 12:26 PM

OEM pads will do you well the first time out. As you progress, you'll want to go with something more aggressive, but OEM is the best compromise between street and track.

I'd say do the fluid and maybe some stainless steel brake lines and go have some fun and go from there.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

03-19-2015, 03:05 PM

I have the Hawk street pads that Rob mentioned. Unfortunately, haven't had a chance to track them yet as I put them on just as Winter rolled in but will report results once the snow clears and summer tires are on

VroomVroom · 03-19-2015, 11:11 PM

Thanks very much for all the responses- so it sounds like I would be okay maybe once with OEM, but I should be thinking about different pads for the long run. I've had the Hawk HT-10s recommended, but would have to put them on about a week before going to the track, and not sure how soon I could swap back, likely another week. Can anyone speak to whether Hawk pads are bad for stock rotors? I believe it was a JDP rep who said there was something about the Hawk brake pad compound that wasn't nice to rotors...

backeddy · 03-20-2015, 02:53 PM

Buy carbotech xp8's and be done with it.........they work well on the street and kill it at the track!

JDP Sales · 03-20-2015, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VroomVroom

Thanks very much for all the responses- so it sounds like I would be okay maybe once with OEM, but I should be thinking about different pads for the long run. I've had the Hawk HT-10s recommended, but would have to put them on about a week before going to the track, and not sure how soon I could swap back, likely another week. Can anyone speak to whether Hawk pads are bad for stock rotors? I believe it was a JDP rep who said there was something about the Hawk brake pad compound that wasn't nice to rotors...

The HT10s have a short temperature range. They require heat to bite well and can fall off when over-heated. If you really want to change out the pads, the Hawk DTC 60s would be my recommendation.

Here's hawk's graph for each pad and temperatures they are most effective.

I believe there may have been a misunderstanding about Hawk being hard on the rotors - fact is, just about any track pad is going to be hard on rotors, but what I meant was the Hawk pad compound is not compatible with the OEM pad compound. When pads are bedded in, you're basically transferring a film to the rotor for the best possible friction. This means when switching between non compatible compounds, you'll have to scrub the rotors to remove any old pad material before installing the other pads.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

VroomVroom · 04-03-2015, 07:45 PM

Thanks all for the good discussion - I switched out the brake fluid but will just be using a new set of stock pads to start out and see how it goes. Sounds like the carbotech pads might be a good street/track compromise, but I'm not a fan of dust and noise, so I'm not sure I can deal with a multi-use pad that compromises for both activities. I think I need a friend who knows how to change pads and rotors- how hard is it to do this myself, and what equipment would I need?

Moonchopper · 04-05-2015, 08:39 PM

Changing out the brake pads is incredibly easy on these cars.

After you take the wheels off, you will need to tap out two pins that are holding a spring in (I usually use a hammer + a punch with a VERY VERY light tap):

Once you get the two pins and the spring out, you'll need to compress the pistons in the caliper to get the pad out (not a whole lot, really) - you can use the pad a little bit if needed (I usually just use my fingers to pull the pad straight back towards the outside/inside of the calipers, depending on whether or not I'm working with the outside/inside brake pad, respectively).

When you install the new brake pads, most of them come with an 'anti-chatter/anti-squeal' grease - I usually apply this liberally to the back of the brake pad, though I think you really only need it for the areas where the caliper will press against it. If it doesn't come with this, you might want to pick some up (I have no idea if it's required, but I've never ran without it).

After installing the new pads (which might require pulling in the pistons a bit more on each side of the caliper), replace the bottom pin, insert the spring between the pin and the bottom pin, then you'll have to bend the spring back into place where it used to be in order to replace the top pin (which should be sitting BEHIND the spring, just like the bottom - in case it wasn't clear

). [edit] Also, make certain you lightly tap the pins back in - On my car, and with the hammer I have, I just kind of listen for the tune of the 'ping' produced by the hammer. Keep in mind, these are VERY light taps. If it becomes much more 'pronounced,' and the pin looks securely in place, I know that the pin is set.

Rinse and repeat for all wheels. Sounds like a lot of work, but it is really simple in practice. I do this between my ceramic pads and my HP+'s all the time, and I can probably get it done with an hour most times -- and that's coming from someone who works pretty damn slow

).

VroomVroom · 04-06-2015, 09:43 AM

Thanks very much! Appreciate the detailed response! Does seem like something I could do, I like the idea of a track setup for the track and OEM for daily driving. Thanks!

VroomVroom · 04-14-2015, 10:43 PM

Thought I would update - decided to stay conservative my first out and only switched out DOT3 for DOT4 fluid, Motul RBF600 and replaced front pads with a new stock set. Ran great! I drove pretty conservatively but still had a very excellent time. I can certainly see the need for upgrades, but can practice a lot of lines with this setup before adding the insane speeds!

03-19-2015, 12:10 AM	#1
VroomVroom Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: SF Posts: 22 View My Garage	Brake pads for daily driver going to the track? Hi, Taking my daily driver to the track for the first time. Everyone agrees I need to replace the brake fluid with high temperature stuff, ok, no problem. But then when it comes to brake pads- yikes! It sounds like there is no pad that I can put on the car for both occasional track days and daily driving, and I've been told that the compound in Hawk pads will be really bad for the stock rotors if I go with a track pad. I'm not sure what to do here- I've been told that the OEM pads with sufficient depth will be just fine, is that my best option for the first time? I'm not necessarily tight on cash and want to make sure the car is well-prepped, but I also don't want to spend a ton of money on entirely new brake systems or spend a ton of time driving to the mechanic to switch back and forth between brake pads and ruin my stock rotors in the meantime... help? Thank you!

03-19-2015, 01:32 AM	#3
Todd in Vancouver Drives: 2014 ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 1,538 View My Garage	I'm kinda in th e same boat. I was thinking of just changing out the OE pads to Hawk pads on my weekend track days then just pop the OE back in after the weekend so I'm not kicking the crap out of my rotors while I'm street driving. Not that I touch the breaks much anyway. __________________ Todd in Vancouver '14 ZL1 Camaro '67 Camaro SS Pro-tour in process How hard can it be... Check out my other build http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/9...ject-Obsession

03-19-2015, 11:11 PM	#8
VroomVroom Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: SF Posts: 22 View My Garage	So if I am looking at replacing the pads... Thanks very much for all the responses- so it sounds like I would be okay maybe once with OEM, but I should be thinking about different pads for the long run. I've had the Hawk HT-10s recommended, but would have to put them on about a week before going to the track, and not sure how soon I could swap back, likely another week. Can anyone speak to whether Hawk pads are bad for stock rotors? I believe it was a JDP rep who said there was something about the Hawk brake pad compound that wasn't nice to rotors...

04-05-2015, 08:39 PM	#12
Moonchopper Drives: 2010 RJT Camaro SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Raleigh-Durham, NC Posts: 150	Changing out the brake pads is incredibly easy on these cars. After you take the wheels off, you will need to tap out two pins that are holding a spring in (I usually use a hammer + a punch with a VERY VERY light tap): Once you get the two pins and the spring out, you'll need to compress the pistons in the caliper to get the pad out (not a whole lot, really) - you can use the pad a little bit if needed (I usually just use my fingers to pull the pad straight back towards the outside/inside of the calipers, depending on whether or not I'm working with the outside/inside brake pad, respectively). When you install the new brake pads, most of them come with an 'anti-chatter/anti-squeal' grease - I usually apply this liberally to the back of the brake pad, though I think you really only need it for the areas where the caliper will press against it. If it doesn't come with this, you might want to pick some up (I have no idea if it's required, but I've never ran without it). After installing the new pads (which might require pulling in the pistons a bit more on each side of the caliper), replace the bottom pin, insert the spring between the pin and the bottom pin, then you'll have to bend the spring back into place where it used to be in order to replace the top pin (which should be sitting BEHIND the spring, just like the bottom - in case it wasn't clear ). [edit] Also, make certain you lightly tap the pins back in - On my car, and with the hammer I have, I just kind of listen for the tune of the 'ping' produced by the hammer. Keep in mind, these are VERY light taps. If it becomes much more 'pronounced,' and the pin looks securely in place, I know that the pin is set. Rinse and repeat for all wheels. Sounds like a lot of work, but it is really simple in practice. I do this between my ceramic pads and my HP+'s all the time, and I can probably get it done with an hour most times -- and that's coming from someone who works pretty damn slow ). __________________ 2010 LS3 Camaro 2SS/RS CAI Intake Stainless works LT headers Borla S-Type exhaust Elite Engineering catch can Hurst short-throw shifter BC Racing Type BR Coilovers Dyno tuned @ 423 RWHP

03-19-2015, 01:19 AM	#2
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,544	OEM is best for your application.

03-19-2015, 01:36 AM	#4
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,544	OEM will fit your needs nicely with DOT 4 fluid.

03-19-2015, 07:59 AM	#5
Rob@WretchedMS Drives: His Wife Crazy Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson Posts: 1,789	it depends a lot on the track, the driver, the experience level (not track time, but knowing driving lines, braking zones, ect) for some tracks, and some drivers stock stuff will be fine for your first time. for other tracks, and/or other drivers stock stuff will not be enough, and you will overheat them. You very likely do not need racing brake pads for your first time out, but better than stock may not be a bad idea. The new Hawk HP Street 5.0 pads are a great all around pad that you can use daily or for light track days, The Hawk Street Race is a bit more aggressive, but still is streetable for daily driving. (though it may be a bit noisy and dusty for some) Brake Fluid should be changed out every 3 years on a street car, if you track the car it should be replaced much more often. Just make sure you are using something that is compatible with the existing fluid. On your first track day, be more worried about getting the line right, getting your braking right, and NOT overdriving the corners, than being the fastest, bestest on the track. Don't hesitate to get an instructor in the car with you, (i might even say don't go on the track the first time with out one), they can help with simple things that you might not even consider that will help you, your car, and your wallet.

03-19-2015, 12:26 PM	#6
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	OEM pads will do you well the first time out. As you progress, you'll want to go with something more aggressive, but OEM is the best compromise between street and track. I'd say do the fluid and maybe some stainless steel brake lines and go have some fun and go from there. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007

03-19-2015, 03:05 PM	#7
sbear Guest Posts: n/a View My Garage	I have the Hawk street pads that Rob mentioned. Unfortunately, haven't had a chance to track them yet as I put them on just as Winter rolled in but will report results once the snow clears and summer tires are on

03-20-2015, 02:53 PM	#9
backeddy Banned Drives: 2011 Boxster Spyder (best car ever) Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: San Jose, Ca Posts: 1,529	Buy carbotech xp8's and be done with it.........they work well on the street and kill it at the track!

04-03-2015, 07:45 PM	#11
VroomVroom Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: SF Posts: 22 View My Garage	Thanks all for the good discussion - I switched out the brake fluid but will just be using a new set of stock pads to start out and see how it goes. Sounds like the carbotech pads might be a good street/track compromise, but I'm not a fan of dust and noise, so I'm not sure I can deal with a multi-use pad that compromises for both activities. I think I need a friend who knows how to change pads and rotors- how hard is it to do this myself, and what equipment would I need?

04-06-2015, 09:43 AM	#13
VroomVroom Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: SF Posts: 22 View My Garage	Thanks very much! Appreciate the detailed response! Does seem like something I could do, I like the idea of a track setup for the track and OEM for daily driving. Thanks!

04-14-2015, 10:43 PM	#14
VroomVroom Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: SF Posts: 22 View My Garage	Thought I would update - decided to stay conservative my first out and only switched out DOT3 for DOT4 fluid, Motul RBF600 and replaced front pads with a new stock set. Ran great! I drove pretty conservatively but still had a very excellent time. I can certainly see the need for upgrades, but can practice a lot of lines with this setup before adding the insane speeds!