2013 Mustang GT500 MEGA THREAD

[GTAHVIT]

Originally Posted by HumanWiki

Turn the hood in to a Peltier Unit with the heat pipes welded directly on to the engine. Plug it in to the alternator... Boom.. A hood hot enough to bake a turkey in less time than it takes someone to mention ZL1 vs GT500.

dude, it sounds like you've done that before....

[Blue Menace]

Thanks for the answers. So I take it "heat soak" really isn't ever an issue with daily driving.

[ihaveacamaro]

I can't wait until some magazine on youtube takes both of these awesome cars to the track! Of course on the drag strip the GT500 takes the cake... but how does the magnetic suspension magic of the ZL1 face off against the brute force and 100 hp difference of the GT500.... can't wait to see these monsters at the same time on a track!

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by Blue Menace

Thanks for the answers. So I take it "heat soak" really isn't ever an issue with daily driving.

Heat soak really affects car when hammering on it... Daily driving just doesn't "generally cause an issue just cruising, unless you jump on it for some reason. Then the heat load can lead to detonation, which causes the knock retard sensors to start pulling timing, which reduces power.. but can save a motor...

I don't recall ever seeing anyone with forced induction pulling into a drag strip, teching a car and heading straight to the staging lanes... They go to a parking spot, pop the hood and let the furnace cool down for a while...

In racing conditions, this can occur quite quickly. Most say that forced induction motors are no good for road course type racing, and I agree for the most part... due to heat soak... the power can go away quite quickly...

Low to moderate boost cars can sustain the power longer, but naturally aspirated motors can be built to the same power levels without concern for heat soak power loss...and are much easier to tune to deliver consistent power throughout the course of a track day..

[Fenderaddict2]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

Heat soak really affects car when hammering on it... Daily driving just doesn't "generally cause an issue just cruising, unless you jump on it for some reason. Then the heat load can lead to detonation, which causes the knock retard sensors to start pulling timing, which reduces power.. but can save a motor...

I don't recall ever seeing anyone with forced induction pulling into a drag strip, teching a car and heading straight to the staging lanes... They go to a parking spot, pop the hood and let the furnace cool down for a while...

In racing conditions, this can occur quite quickly. Most say that forced induction motors are no good for road course type racing, and I agree for the most part... due to heat soak... the power can go away quite quickly...

Low to moderate boost cars can sustain the power longer, but naturally aspirated motors can be built to the same power levels without concern for heat soak power loss...and are much easier to tune to deliver consistent power throughout the course of a track day..

Agree. Probably why those who love the curves would be better served by the 1LE.

[Sax1031]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

Heat soak really affects car when hammering on it... Daily driving just doesn't "generally cause an issue just cruising, unless you jump on it for some reason. Then the heat load can lead to detonation, which causes the knock retard sensors to start pulling timing, which reduces power.. but can save a motor...

I don't recall ever seeing anyone with forced induction pulling into a drag strip, teching a car and heading straight to the staging lanes... They go to a parking spot, pop the hood and let the furnace cool down for a while...

In racing conditions, this can occur quite quickly. Most say that forced induction motors are no good for road course type racing, and I agree for the most part... due to heat soak... the power can go away quite quickly...

Low to moderate boost cars can sustain the power longer, but naturally aspirated motors can be built to the same power levels without concern for heat soak power loss...and are much easier to tune to deliver consistent power throughout the course of a track day..

An n/a road course car is ideal.

[69NMYSS]

Originally Posted by Betiwin

54,995 base with destination.
3,495 PP
2,495 TP

So 60995 equipped to Z standards

Heaviest one I read as test with PP and TP is 3852 lbs.

Edit I see MTrend scaled there PP, TP at 3871.

$61,685k was the price I was quoted on ford website vs. $56,200 for ZL1 including GG tax.

[evh5150vanhalen]

Seen a charcoal 2013 GT500 on thursday while looking at the new Boss 302's. Sweet looking car and it wass only $65,000 canadian... Not too bad.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by Fenderaddict2

Agree. Probably why those who love the curves would be better served by the 1LE.

Or that nasty lil ride you have...

Originally Posted by Sax1031

An n/a road course car is ideal.

Yup, Completely agree. I was invited to a road course and politely declined, for two primary reasons...

1, too much power loss due to heat soak on a road course...

2, I would spin the car (not the tires) into the next area code coming out of a turn and hammering it too hard

[Fenderaddict2]

Originally Posted by evh5150vanhalen

Seen a charcoal 2013 GT500 on thursday while looking at the new Boss 302's. Sweet looking car and it wass only $65,000 canadian... Not too bad.

Never get it for that here :-(

[Fenderaddict2]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

Or that nasty lil ride you have...

Yup, Completely agree. I was invited to a road course and politely declined, for two primary reasons...

1, too much power loss due to heat soak on a road course...

2, I would spin the car (not the tires) into the next area code coming out of a turn and hammering it too hard

Thanks. And

[LOWDOWN]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

Yup, Completely agree. I was invited to a road course and politely declined, for two primary reasons...

1, too much power loss due to heat soak on a road course...

2, I would spin the car (not the tires) into the next area code coming out of a turn and hammering it too hard

That's what "seat time" is all about...something this guy needed:

http://www.onehotlap.com/2011/11/how...oss-event.html

[sho928]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

I agree, there isn't much better than a TT v-8... and Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=cjBmxblRmhs

Here is a TT Ford, it also shows the potential the 5.4/5.8 has

[8cd03gro]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

I deal with a bit of "heat soak" as well,

I was sitting at the start line, 1/4 mile, at 93 degree IAT's, and finished the 1/4 at 193 degrees IAT.

True it's not "heat soak" per say, but dang the compressor heat is brutal... I'm going to vent my hood for heat/air removal so that I can try to get more air through the intercooler...

Do you have all your hot-side piping wrapped and/or coated? How about turbo blanket(s)? I spent a lot of time wrapping and coating hot-side components and with my turbo blanket and phenolic spacers on the intake manifold I can touch my intercooler (mounted on top of the engine, right above the turbo) and intake manifold bare-handed after spirited driving. Before all the heat managing stuff I could press the intercooler sprayer and the first bit of water would turn to steam. Not something anyone would want to touch. Proper heat management makes a WORLD of difference on forced induction cars.