How many ppl are full of SHIIIIII when it comes to buying a ZL1

[OldScoolCamaro]

Originally Posted by 2010SLVRBULIT

I'll wait until they work the bugs out of it...

....you will be assimilated...(The Chevy Borg)

[Scarrzz]

Originally Posted by 2010SLVRBULIT

I'll wait until they work the bugs out of it...

I heard that in Worf's voice.


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[Z4me]

My wife thinks I'm full of $H!T sometimes such as things that I'm going to get done around the house. In fact she's actually had a roll of toilet paper in her hands concerning such matters.
But when it comes to the topic of the ZL1 were on the same page and thats no bull or toilet paper for that matter.

[radz28]

The comments about dealer mark-up being some sort of con against this car is frustrating to me; it's almost like people are using it as a reason not to build ZL1. Maybe it's how I'm reading it, or something, but NO ONE HAS TO PAY FOR A MARK-UP. Keep looking for a dealer that doesn't mark up. I swear I have seen at least one Mid-West Sponsor in our Community that advertises no mark-ups. Regardless - IMVHO, if you are complaining about paying for a mark-up, either find a dealer that doesn't mark-up, or wait until there are none. To suggest to use it as an excuse ZL1 is any less of a car is just silly to me.

[Z4me]

Originally Posted by radz28

The comments about dealer mark-up being some sort of con against this car is frustrating to me; it's almost like people are using it as a reason not to build ZL1. Maybe it's how I'm reading it, or something, but NO ONE HAS TO PAY FOR A MARK-UP. Keep looking for a dealer that doesn't mark up. I swear I have seen at least one Mid-West Sponsor in our Community that advertises no mark-ups. Regardless - IMVHO, if you are complaining about paying for a mark-up, either find a dealer that doesn't mark-up, or wait until there are none. To suggest to use it as an excuse ZL1 is any less of a car is just silly to me.

Agreed no reason to pay more then MSRP this car is going to be in my driveway for a long time. I want to be able to look back and say I was treated fairly when I bought it.

[Blue Menace]

Originally Posted by radz28

The comments about dealer mark-up being some sort of con against this car is frustrating to me; it's almost like people are using it as a reason not to build ZL1. Maybe it's how I'm reading it, or something, but NO ONE HAS TO PAY FOR A MARK-UP. Keep looking for a dealer that doesn't mark up. I swear I have seen at least one Mid-West Sponsor in our Community that advertises no mark-ups. Regardless - IMVHO, if you are complaining about paying for a mark-up, either find a dealer that doesn't mark-up, or wait until there are none. To suggest to use it as an excuse ZL1 is any less of a car is just silly to me.

I purchased 3 different 2010's of various price and spec (long story) with nary a markup. Just keep in mind that it is the naysayer's job to say "nay!". Feel free to ignore them.

[TURBOJ]

I would consider buying one at MSRP if I got a fair price for my 2011 and I started saving right now

[GoldenBear]

Originally Posted by radz28

That sounds really good! I know my wifey would prefer riding along with me along our beautiful coast rather than cussing and swearing at my car, working on it.

Speaking of of cussing and swearing, let me relate a long story long that I experienced recently with regard to one of my older vehicles.

Over Memorial Day weekend I finally got around to addressing an issue, which involved the usual cussing and swearing and back pain that usually comes with wrench turning (which reminds me of how nice it will be nice to drive a new ZL1 that won't require much, if any, wrench time), with my 1969 Corvette, which is completely original except for a Petronix Ignitor (who wants to deal with points these days?) and Flamethrower coil.

I had noticed over the past couple of years that the vehicle, from time to time, did not start as quickly as it normally would (it would normally start with just a bump of the key to the START position), and that sometimes it would start just as the key was released from the START position, rather than start while the key was in the START position (while the starter motor was cranking and drawing current). Therefore, I surmised that the issue had something to do with the ignition system. It wasn't a major problem so there was no big hurry to address it, but, nevertheless, it still bothered me that the vehicle was not operating completely as it should.

On GM vehicles of that era, when the engine is running, the coil voltage is supplied by a resistance wire (from the ignition switch to the positive coil terminal) that reduces the voltage (down from 12 Volts) to the coil, and thereby, to the points, to keep the points from burning out prematurely. However, the Ignitor operates at 12 Volts, so it needs to be wired to a source that provides 12 Volts at all times. When the engine is being cranked, the coil voltage is supplied to the positive coil terminal by a wire directly from the starter solenoid which provides full voltage to the coil to provide the required spark for starting.

In order to measure the voltages at the coil, I removed the ignition shielding box, the spark plug wire braiding connectors (all Corvette Big Blocks from that era had spark plug wire braiding to help with AM radio noise suppression) from the ignition shielding brackets, and the coil to distributor plug wire. I referred to the ignition section of the 1969 Chevrolet Shop Manual, at it stated that the cranking voltage to the coil should be at least 9 Volts. So, I got out my DVM and measured the voltage at the coil while cranking. It measured 9 Volts, so I thought it was in the acceptable range.

I then removed the spark plug wires from the distributor cap (carefully labeling each one) and removed the distributor cap and inspected the Ignitor. The Ignitor appeared fine. I removed the wires from the coil to examine them for any signs of wear or exposed areas which could be problematic. I attempted to trace the both the resistance wire and solenoid wire from the coil to their origin on in the ignition switch and starter solenoid, respectively, to ensure that they were no exposed areas which might be shorting, which is more difficult than one might think as the wiring harnesses aren't too easy to follow. I did not find any areas with bare wire.

I checked all of the wiring connections at the fuse box underneath the driver's side dashboard (that's a back breaker). No problems found there either. I cleaned the terminals at the ends of the resistance wire and solenoid wire and reattached the wires to the coil.

I rechecked the cranking voltage at the coil and it was only 8 Volts, which is too low to provide adequate starting spark. I had the driver's door open during the time I was performing these various checks and so the interior lights were drawing current from battery. It then occurred to me that all of this time the root cause of the problem was most likely a less than full strength battery, as just a minor load on the battery caused the voltage at the coil when cranking to drop from 9 to 8 volts.

I removed that old battery, and proceeded to purchase and install a new battery. I then checked the cranking voltage at the coil and "Voila," it was 10.5 Volts. I reinstalled the distributor cap, the spark plug wires on the distributor cap, the spark plug wire braiding connectors on the ignition shielding support, and the ignition shielding box. The car now regularly starts as it should, with just a bump of the key to the START position.

Anyway, something simple that I thought would have taken less than forty-five minutes ended up taking close to two and a half hours including the time required to make the trip to obtain a new battery.

Starting next year I look forward to many years of trouble free driving with my ZL1.

[Scarrzz]

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Good story, GoldenBear. You get uhm... points... for being thorough.... .

.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Blue Menace

I purchased 3 different 2010's of various price and spec (long story) with nary a markup. Just keep in mind that it is the naysayer's job to say "nay!". Feel free to ignore them.

Exactly. I'm not suggesting it won't be difficult finding a dealer that doesn't mark up, especially in the beginning.

Originally Posted by Scarrzz

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Good story, GoldenBear. You get uhm... points... for being thorough.... .

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No worries with ZL1 or any other car, lol. Get in and drive for years, and still get better mileage than the 'Vette. It won't have the personalitly, however, almost no other car can touch that 'Vette in terms of personality, IMVHO.

[Qdiesel]

Originally Posted by GoldenBear

As you stated, building a vehicle can be very rewarding, if you have the time (building a vehicle can be a very time consuming undertaking), money (it's almost always less expensive to purchase a fully completed vehicle), perseverance, and patience.

However, whether building a vehicle is the right decision for an individual, depends on, in part, at what stage one is in one's life and how one wants to spend one's discretionary time. Personally, at this point in my life I want to spend more of my time driving and experiencing the world out there and less time in the garage turning wrenches. Thirty years ago I was more inclined to spend time in the garage turning wrenches, but now driving a track and strip ready (and relatively maintenance free) from the factory new ZL1 seems more consistent with my current lifestyle, as I know I'll be spending a lot of time taking weekend trips down to Monterey and Big Sur, and up to Napa and Sonoma with a perma-grin in my ZL1.

Well, I'm 33 and don't have any other hobbies besides working out, lol. To me, this is about more than building the car. This is something I can share with my sons and hopefully pass my love of cars down to them. If it was going to be a daily driver, it would be a ZL1 without a doubt. Since it aint, I took the other route.

[nester7929]

Originally Posted by radz28

The comments about dealer mark-up being some sort of con against this car is frustrating to me; it's almost like people are using it as a reason not to build ZL1. Maybe it's how I'm reading it, or something, but NO ONE HAS TO PAY FOR A MARK-UP. Keep looking for a dealer that doesn't mark up. I swear I have seen at least one Mid-West Sponsor in our Community that advertises no mark-ups. Regardless - IMVHO, if you are complaining about paying for a mark-up, either find a dealer that doesn't mark-up, or wait until there are none. To suggest to use it as an excuse ZL1 is any less of a car is just silly to me.

Unfortunately, there are enough suckers out there that will pay above sticker price that it can make it difficult to negotiate for a sought-after car.

Thankfully, I have family in the industry and am spared from having to explain why it's a dishonest practice.

[midnighter]

I'll be honest with you guys.
I am not buying one.

[20Camaro11]

:( bad news....my money tree didn't take, so I won't be getting a ZL1.