What it takes to Drop the E.T.s

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis

Picked up .2 and 2mph with 20" OZ racing rims that were 40lb. lighter than stock. Less inertia so launch and stop faster.

Some people can hook pretty good on street tires with an automatic. Drag radials needed for M6. I have cut 1.61's with 20" Nitto 555 Dr's. My first set lasted about 8,000 miles and 50 passes. Run 30 lb. on the street, my centers wore out at 35 lb. My Mickey Thompsons lasted about 500 miles and 50 passes.

Stock Automatic can gain 50hp in mid range with a tune for significant improvement. Stock M6 will only gain about 5hp with a tune. Torque converter with higher stall best thing to help automatic launch. Trailing arms are cheap and will help about .2 with auto or M6 with DR's. Toe rods not much benefit. Keep the stock clutch in the M6. More aggressive clutch makes it harder to slip at launch. I lost .2 with a ram HD (single disk) and went back to stock clutch after 8 months. I hated driving the Ram. Had to keep rpms above 1500 rpm to take off or it shuddered and jerked.

AR headers to stock mufflers added 30hp and 34 lb. torque with stock air box. CAI will add 10hp. Never raced prior to headers but you definitely feel the torque and good base for future mods. Stock mufflers are good to 600hp. Still running them at 480hp to rear wheels. Plenty loud with AR headers. One racing cat per side instead of two cats and a silencer per side with stock system.

I have dyno sheets posted in my picture album on my profile page.

From what I hear the ZR-1 Twin disc is an excellent choice. Holds tons of power and has stock drive ability. Not sure how easily it is slipped though. I heavy duty single disc is most likely a lot grabbier.

I plan on going with the ZR-1 clutch when the stocker goes.