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Old 01-19-2026, 08:11 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by jtgraham View Post
Upon further testing I found that if I pump the clutch petal about 8 or 10 times when the car is not running I can shift into 1st easily. If I start the car it does the same. If I let it sit for a short time it is hard to go into 1st again. You can't suck out any air in the line from above in the brake reservoir like on gen 5's but I did find the lower air bleed on the passenger side of the trans and it appears to have a built in quick turn plastic handle to open and close. I can't tell if the slave cylinder is replaceable from the outside or if you can only access it when youchange out the clutch.
You will have to pull the transmission to remove the slave cylinder. I haven't pull mine on my tr6060 yet but on my t56 it was much easier to leave the bell housing in place and pull the transmission out of the bell housing with the slave cylinder mounted to it.
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Old 01-19-2026, 07:20 PM   #16
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So I was able to jack up both side of the rear and get underneath. I found the driveline turns about 3/4 before the axle starts to rotate. The drivers side axle even pops out about 1/8 before rotating. The passenger side just spins and does not pop out before rotating. I 21k rear diff is on the way to replace this 108k abused one.
I pumped the clutch about 10 times and put it in first, started the car and there was no wheel movement at all until I let the clutch out about half way. I pushed the clutch back to the floor and the wheels stopped again so I guess there is no need to check for air in the clutch slave is there? I thing I am looking at some Trans work possibly?
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Old 01-28-2026, 02:49 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jtgraham View Post
So I was able to jack up both side of the rear and get underneath. I found the driveline turns about 3/4 before the axle starts to rotate. The drivers side axle even pops out about 1/8 before rotating. The passenger side just spins and does not pop out before rotating. I 21k rear diff is on the way to replace this 108k abused one.
I pumped the clutch about 10 times and put it in first, started the car and there was no wheel movement at all until I let the clutch out about half way. I pushed the clutch back to the floor and the wheels stopped again so I guess there is no need to check for air in the clutch slave is there? I thing I am looking at some Trans work possibly?
Replace the diff and then come back to check the transmission. It's always a good idea to replace things that are for sure broken before you mess with things that may be broken.

The 1st gear syncro is probably the least likely to fail just because its not really used very often under harsh conditions in the first place. Downshifting at slow speeds from 2nd to 1st as you're coming to a stop and engagement from neutral to 1st when taking off.

Now maybe a shift fork being bent or the contact pad on it is deformed. But you would think you would have problems with 2nd also since they share that fork.

Maybe 1st gear alignment teeth at rounded out which could cause a rough kinda feel when moving into 1st, pretty much how a bad syncro would feel.
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