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Old 05-13-2024, 12:17 AM   #1
N Camarolina

 
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Need some help rigging up Curt cargo carrier for track wheels

Hey track rats that have seen/used the Curt cargo carrier to transport their track wheels. I've installed my hitch receiver and have my new Curt cargo carrier to transport two of my track wheels, but have a couple of newbie questions that need your help:

1) In previously posted picks from other forum members, I've seen that wheel chocks tend to get mounted against the trailing edge of the carrier (most rearward and opposite the cargo carrier shank/receiver). Is there a specific reason why? Is it just as acceptable to mount them on the leading edge of the cargo carrier (ahead of the wheels and closer the Camaro bumper)?

2) The hex bolt provided with the carrier to secure the carrier shank into the hitch receiver tube is very long; so much so that if I thread it in all the way so that the lock washer (just behind bolt head)prevents the bolt from spinning, the non-treaded end of the bolt that has the cotter pin protrudes pretty far (about 1.5 inches) past the exit hole in the receiver tube. Is this the normal desired set up? Would using a shorter bolt threaded all the way with a lock washer/nut instead of a cotter pin be a better solution?

3) When securing the wheels, on the cargo carrier, I've seen pics showing the two wheels side by side with the wheel faces toward each other at the interface (facing toward the center of the carrier) rather than having the wheel faces opposed (facing toward the outside left/right edges of the carrier). Is there a specific reason for this?
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Old 05-13-2024, 07:01 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N Camarolina View Post
Hey track rats that have seen/used the Curt cargo carrier to transport their track wheels. I've installed my hitch receiver and have my new Curt cargo carrier to transport two of my track wheels, but have a couple of newbie questions that need your help:

1) In previously posted picks from other forum members, I've seen that wheel chocks tend to get mounted against the trailing edge of the carrier (most rearward and opposite the cargo carrier shank/receiver). Is there a specific reason why? Is it just as acceptable to mount them on the leading edge of the cargo carrier (ahead of the wheels and closer the Camaro bumper)?

2) The hex bolt provided with the carrier to secure the carrier shank into the hitch receiver tube is very long; so much so that if I thread it in all the way so that the lock washer (just behind bolt head)prevents the bolt from spinning, the non-treaded end of the bolt that has the cotter pin protrudes pretty far (about 1.5 inches) past the exit hole in the receiver tube. Is this the normal desired set up? Would using a shorter bolt threaded all the way with a lock washer/nut instead of a cotter pin be a better solution?

3) When securing the wheels, on the cargo carrier, I've seen pics showing the two wheels side by side with the wheel faces toward each other at the interface (facing toward the center of the carrier) rather than having the wheel faces opposed (facing toward the outside left/right edges of the carrier). Is there a specific reason for this?
Can't speak to 1 or 2, but on 3, my inclination would be to have the wheel faces facing the car's centerline for a few reasons. I'd want the mass closest to center. All kinds of legit "it doesn't matter" reasons to counter it, but that's where my brain would be. A more reality-based reason is that if teh faces are facing each other, it'll be easier getting a safety/security cable through them. Also, facing them inwards better protects the faces from cosmetic damage against whatever crap might kicked up or come their way in a crosswind.
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Old 05-15-2024, 11:48 PM   #3
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Thanks Clyde for the thoughts on #3; makes sense. I'll be using the rack for the first trip next week.

I could still use help (Matt? James? others?) on #1 and #2, so please reply soon if you see this.
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Old 05-19-2024, 06:54 AM   #4
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Sorry for the late reply! Too much non-car-related drama in my life these days.
  1. I mounted the chocks all the way rearward as you describe. The reason is to ensure the tires don't touch the bumper cover. It depends on the diameter of the tires you run, but I can tell you that with 285/35/19 tires (26.9" diameter), they get fairly close, especially at the center of the bumper. Keep in mind that over bumps the carrier could rise up a bit from its static ride height, so the tires could get closer to the bumper than when the loaded rig is at rest.
  2. I have always just used the stock setup. The bolt is longer to accommodate the 2" hitch adapter, for those with 2" hitches. That obviously doesn't apply to us. I think using a locking nut (e.g. nylock) would be a royal PITA at the event site: you'll need a wrench on the bolt head plus a ratchet drive or impact on the nut in order to remove/install the bolt. It's far easier to thread in just the bolt and then pop the cotter pin into the end of the bolt.
  3. Whether you face the wheel faces toward or away from one another probably doesn't matter. Clyde's reasoning is better than any I could come up with, so I'd go with that.
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Old 05-19-2024, 01:53 PM   #5
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Thanks for the reply Matt. That makes me feel better about the hitch pin.

As to the wheel chock placement, a friend of mine (was just able to ask him) said having the chocks on the back edge (as others have been doing, might help shift the tires closer to the hitch receiver, which will help reduce tongue weight. Also would place less stress on the tie down straps during acceleration. Downsides are that 1) it will shift stress to tie-down straps during braking and 2) It may allow tires to rub/bump against the rear bumper when braking and/or hitting bumps.

I'm going to do a bit of exploring with this this afternoon. I have 2 additional wheel chocks so will also check if there is room to use all 4 at that same (in front and behind each of the 2 wheels). I'll report back what I find.

Did you ever find a solution for a trunk strap cantilever that didn't require making holes in the trunk or having the strap rub against it?
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Old 05-19-2024, 04:30 PM   #6
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It would require some minor modification to do this with the Curt tray carrier, but I lay the wheels horizontally on my old bike rack, use a cargo strap to secure them and another strap that goes around both wheels and the rack.

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Old 05-19-2024, 05:17 PM   #7
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Did you ever find a solution for a trunk strap cantilever that didn't require making holes in the trunk or having the strap rub against it?
I have an idea, but the same drama that made me late to reply to you has derailed almost all of my car plans this spring and early summer. Trying to get back on the ball now.
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Old 05-19-2024, 05:30 PM   #8
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I have an idea, but the same drama that made me late to reply to you has derailed almost all of my car plans this spring and early summer. Trying to get back on the ball now.
Wishing you the best possible outcome!

I missed today's autox due to long covid issues.
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Old 05-19-2024, 07:16 PM   #9
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Wishing you the best possible outcome!

I missed today's autox due to long covid issues.
Things are coming around, thanks! My brother had long COVID and it has made anything I've been going seem like child's play. I hope you are on the mend.
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Old 05-19-2024, 10:54 PM   #10
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Can't speak to 1 or 2, but on 3, my inclination would be to have the wheel faces facing the car's centerline for a few reasons. I'd want the mass closest to center. All kinds of legit "it doesn't matter" reasons to counter it, but that's where my brain would be. A more reality-based reason is that if teh faces are facing each other, it'll be easier getting a safety/security cable through them. Also, facing them inwards better protects the faces from cosmetic damage against whatever crap might kicked up or come their way in a crosswind.
Yep.

I just transported my two rear tires on my cargo rack today, 2.5hr drive to the venue, 2.5hr drive back.

Chocks don't seem to be necessary IMO. I'm using 3 straps through the wheels, passing through like the upper forward half, strapping that to the rear tie-downs on the rack, passing through the upper rear half, strapping that to the forward tie-downs on the rack. Currently using two straps to tie the wheels together, but I think I'm going to move to 3 for that, no issues, I just want it tight. Even if these work a little loose, there's hardly any play in the wheels themselves and they won't move forward or aft more than about half an inch. Wheel chocks just don't seen necessary to me at this point.

Rack pic is from last time, which was my "test", that one was driving about 45 min. I've revised my straps a little, putting both "through" red ones opposite of the yellow and using the closer attachment for the yellow, since it's a stronger strap. Then I'm putting the "tie" straps that tie the wheels together at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. But this hopefully gives you the idea.

I stopped today on the way out after about an hour just to check for piece of mind. The worst part of all of this is I can't see ANYTHING in the rear view mirrors or window, not unless I stop and put it in reverse...but so far it seems to be working great and people at AutoX are telling me they want to do something similar after seeing it.
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Old 06-02-2024, 01:47 PM   #11
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Hi all. Wanted to thank everyone who provided helpful advice. The long trip from NC to Watkins and back was successful carrying the two extra wheels on the cargo rack.

The only problem I had was ground clearance going over pitch changes (crown in the road surface) at intersections. With the back seat and trunk loaded up (2 tires and various other tools/clothes, etc) the receiver sits low to the ground and the added anti-rattle clamp device tended to scrape the ground at these points. We ended up turning it upside down so the bolts for the anti-rattle plate pointed up and clearance was increased. This minimized the number of scrapes.

Keeping the 2 wheels stable on the cargo carrier using the ratchet straps and bungee cords was easy. Just check that the ratchet straps remain taut and occasionally adding another "click" of tightness (usually only to 1 side) at the first few checks was all that was required.
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Old 06-02-2024, 10:36 PM   #12
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Here's how I set it up today and for the last two events. It looks close, but it really isn't, and it doesn't move forward:
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