Roof drip molding clips

[SummitWhite11]

Does anyone know what adhesive to use for these clips? I’m replacing mine and they are metal clips with a white backing. There is nothing to peel to expose any adhesive. These are OEM I ordered from GM.



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[Rob99]

Do you have a body shop in your town maybe one on the smaller size owner operator that you could ask in person for a recommendation, i would think they would be willing to give you that info bring the part and a brief background on what your doing.
You would want to use the correct adhesive so not to have to do it over and maybe the strip come off on the highway.
I will be doing mine over winter hibernation and hope the clip/s don't break off.
Are you painting them or putting on the wrap material?
Best of luck.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

I would use panel bond…

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by Rob99

Do you have a body shop in your town maybe one on the smaller size owner operator that you could ask in person for a recommendation, i would think they would be willing to give you that info bring the part and a brief background on what your doing.
You would want to use the correct adhesive so not to have to do it over and maybe the strip come off on the highway.
I will be doing mine over winter hibernation and hope the clip/s don't break off.
Are you painting them or putting on the wrap material?
Best of luck.

I have carbon fiber I will use to wrap them with. If it doesnt turn out well then I will paint them myself.


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[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS

I would use panel bond…

That would be overkill I believe. Plus it takes 24 hours to dry. If I needed to replace the clips down the road it would be a nightmare to remove/clean up the left over adhesive.


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[Camaro2ss2010]

I would think 3m vhb double sided tape would be sufficient for that. They do not catch much wind due to the design and placement.

[NOT A 45]

Where's Billy Mays when you need him? lol.........I agree with Blue, or maybe a fast setting epoxy. 2 sided tape definitely not.

[Camaro2ss2010]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

Where's Billy Mays when you need him? lol.........I agree with Blue, or maybe a fast setting epoxy. 2 sided tape definitely not.

Been on mine for 5 years with no problems.

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

Where's Billy Mays when you need him? lol.........I agree with Blue, or maybe a fast setting epoxy. 2 sided tape definitely not.

I agree with Camaro2ss2010 The factory clips were held in place with doublesided tape.


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[vinman]

Maybe just a few self tappers and some duct tape would do it

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by vinman

Maybe just a few self tappers and some duct tape would do it

Maybe not Ha!

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by SummitWhite11

I agree with Camaro2ss2010 The factory clips were held in place with doublesided tape.


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I don't say shit on here because I don't know what I'm talking about! Although many on here do............ Here is the official procedure from General Motors on replacing the clips. Blue and I were correct.

Roof Panel Molding Retainer

Procedure
Ensure that a new pre-cured roof panel molding retainer is being used and discard old retainer.
Apply 3M DURAMIX Super-Fast Adhesive 4747 or equivalent to the cured structural bonding on the new roof panel molding retainer.
The front roof panel molding retainer is placed 25 mm from the front edge of the window frame, centered side to side in the ditch channel and secured with masking tape.
Apply an overlapping drop of adhesive on the front and rear edge of the roof panel molding retainer to the ditch channel.
Allow time for sufficient bonding strength.
Minimum 15 minutes at 23°C (73°F)
Minimum 30 minutes at 10–23°C (50–73°F)
Minimum 60 minutes at 5–10°C (41–50°F)
Remove the masking tape after the bonding time has elapsed.
Please allow adhesive to fully cure prior to installing roof panel joint finish molding.

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

I don't say shit on here because I don't know what I'm talking about! Although many on here do............ Here is the official procedure from General Motors on replacing the clips. Blue and I were correct.

Roof Panel Molding Retainer

Procedure
Ensure that a new pre-cured roof panel molding retainer is being used and discard old retainer.
Apply 3M DURAMIX Super-Fast Adhesive 4747 or equivalent to the cured structural bonding on the new roof panel molding retainer.
The front roof panel molding retainer is placed 25 mm from the front edge of the window frame, centered side to side in the ditch channel and secured with masking tape.
Apply an overlapping drop of adhesive on the front and rear edge of the roof panel molding retainer to the ditch channel.
Allow time for sufficient bonding strength.
Minimum 15 minutes at 23°C (73°F)
Minimum 30 minutes at 10–23°C (50–73°F)
Minimum 60 minutes at 5–10°C (41–50°F)
Remove the masking tape after the bonding time has elapsed.
Please allow adhesive to fully cure prior to installing roof panel joint finish molding.

IDK what that means exactly would you like to take a minute to explain?
It sounds like this is where some people got the confusion that white "pad" thing at the base resembles double sided tape?
My question was the 'pre cured', is this pad something like two part epoxy where some correct duramix then is the second part to this pad?
I know when I apply the 3m black "tape" on things it says it's activated not so much by the peeling off the red protective film tape but by the pressure pressing it firmly on. Is this correct in your knowledge? I just put a bumper protector on yesterday with it, and will put some side moldings on today that have it. I've used it quite a few times, and it does seem as if you just barely stick it on it's more likely to fall off than pushing hard on it.


I guess where I get this line of thinking from also, I ordered some "activator" pads (3M 4298 Adhesion Promoter, 3 Sponge Applicators)

for when using that black tape, that you pre apply. it comes in sorta an alchol wipe type package. it seems to leave something like rubber cement film on the receiving part so it sticks super firmly then !



Thanks for posting the correct procedure, I might learn something today even if I'm not doing this right now.

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

IDK what that means exactly would you like to take a minute to explain?
It sounds like this is where some people got the confusion that white "pad" thing at the base resembles double sided tape?
My question was the 'pre cured', is this pad something like two part epoxy where some correct duramix then is the second part to this pad?
I know when I apply the 3m black "tape" on things it says it's activated not so much by the peeling off the red protective film tape but by the pressure pressing it firmly on. Is this correct in your knowledge? I just put a bumper protector on yesterday with it, and will put some side moldings on today that have it. I've used it quite a few times, and it does seem as if you just barely stick it on it's more likely to fall off than pushing hard on it.


I guess where I get this line of thinking from also, I ordered some "activator" pads (3M 4298 Adhesion Promoter, 3 Sponge Applicators)

for when using that black tape, that you pre apply. it comes in sorta an alchol wipe type package. it seems to leave something like rubber cement film on the receiving part so it sticks super firmly then !



Thanks for posting the correct procedure, I might learn something today even if I'm not doing this right now.

Don't know why they refer to it as precured. Just take it out of the bag and apply it. Duramix is a 2 part epoxy that cures fast. A equivalent fast cure epoxy should be fine as most people don't have the special gun used for duramix. The gun resembles a caulk gun but with 2 tubes that mix together in the nozzle when you pull the trigger. Adhesion promoter is definitely the ticket when using 2 sided tape!