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Old 10-28-2020, 07:32 PM   #15
Camaro2ss2010

 
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To me a strut tower brace definitely makes a difference in handling. As already mentioned it makes the car feel tighter. I have the 4 point BMR.
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
Hey Blu, was your 2011 an early 2010 built car? Mine was built July 2010 and is a 1SS as well and already had the threaded inserts in the shock towers for the bolts for the strut bar. Guess I got lucky.
Built 6-12-2010 7:35 : 52 AM

Did you ever take a picture of the yellow sticker on the front passenger side under the hood on the suspension. It gives you the month,day,year,hour,minute,second.


You have no idea how lucky.
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
Hey Blu, was your 2011 an early 2010 built car? Mine was built July 2010 and is a 1SS as well and already had the threaded inserts in the shock towers for the bolts for the strut bar. Guess I got lucky.
They made a habit of making these weird changes arbitrarily through early production. But it makes for a nice way to date guess some of the earlier cars. It gives them a bit more uniqueness.

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Originally Posted by Camaro2ss2010 View Post
To me a strut tower brace definitely makes a difference in handling. As already mentioned it makes the car feel tighter. I have the 4 point BMR.
Do the struts have to fully come out for installation of the BMR 4 point? I know there are a few sets out there for the 2010 and early 2011 model years that require loosening the struts at a minimum for proper clearance during install.

I found installing my coilovers in my driveway was substantially more of a pain in the ass than swapping my entire engine. I would prefer not to touch the front struts if I don't have to lol, although they were easier than the rear.
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:10 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by BLU DUCE View Post
I got the TPIS parts and the tower brace for a $100 never used. The only bad part is my 2011 1SS/RS didn't have the holes already drilled in. It took me and a friend about 4 hours to put it in. The tower is slanted and when drilling the holes you have to get the right angle drilling the holes. But I'm very happy how it turned out.
off course it didn't have the holes, if it did you would not need the TPIS kit.
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Old 10-29-2020, 09:13 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLU DUCE View Post
Built 6-12-2010 7:35 : 52 AM

Did you ever take a picture of the yellow sticker on the front passenger side under the hood on the suspension. It gives you the month,day,year,hour,minute,second.


You have no idea how lucky.
No, I never even knew about the yellow sticker. I just remember seeing this info on the early/late build dates of the 2011's in this section on the forum. So yea I got lucky. lol I like the look of the brace all painted and have blue LED's on the underside of it for the evening/night shows. Nice mod for the coupes.
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Old 10-29-2020, 09:24 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
No, I never even knew about the yellow sticker. I just remember seeing this info on the early/late build dates of the 2011's in this section on the forum. So yea I got lucky. lol I like the look of the brace all painted and have blue LED's on the underside of it for the evening/night shows. Nice mod for the coupes.
I have a few of my friends with the LED lights on the under side of it and it does look good.

I all so had the performance badge and the fender chicklets given to me from a person who worked on the assembly line in Oshawa. I put them on my car until I found out they don't come on my model camaro and I took them off.
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Old 10-29-2020, 11:18 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL View Post
They made a habit of making these weird changes arbitrarily through early production. But it makes for a nice way to date guess some of the earlier cars. It gives them a bit more uniqueness.



Do the struts have to fully come out for installation of the BMR 4 point? I know there are a few sets out there for the 2010 and early 2011 model years that require loosening the struts at a minimum for proper clearance during install.

I found installing my coilovers in my driveway was substantially more of a pain in the ass than swapping my entire engine. I would prefer not to touch the front struts if I don't have to lol, although they were easier than the rear.
Yes the strut/wheel assembly has to be dropped out of the way due to the bolts come up from the bottom. They are self aligning so they were not that bad to me. I have had to remove it a few times.
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Old 10-29-2020, 11:30 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Camaro2ss2010 View Post
Yes the strut/wheel assembly has to be dropped out of the way due to the bolts come up from the bottom. They are self aligning so they were not that bad to me. I have had to remove it a few times.
Dang. Well thanks for the confirmation. I bet that is a real PITA when you need to remove the intake or do any work in that area. I do love the look of your 4 point and will probably go with that setup once I decide to do more suspension upgrades.
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Old 10-29-2020, 11:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL View Post
Dang. Well thanks for the confirmation. I bet that is a real PITA when you need to remove the intake or do any work in that area. I do love the look of your 4 point and will probably go with that setup once I decide to do more suspension upgrades.
Intake is fine to remove. Anything behind the throttle body is a PITA to work on.
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Old 10-29-2020, 10:17 PM   #24
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Thank you guys so much for your help
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