The BEST Break for a new car. "very long"

[Rocky918]

darin,

my car has 1450 miles on it, and unfortunately my BEST 0-60 time was 5.5, with some times being close to 5.9s (thats v6 territory, not l99) ... i will be changing my oil this week, but im upset about these times. i followed your break in procedure as soon as i saw it (which was at 450 miles) ...

i have not done a computer chip reset yet, but i really dont think that will add a full half second will it?

you said that "to turn it into a real street car, do a tune at 1500-1800 miles" or so... but what exactly does this require? i am no car man so i would have to bring it to a tuning shop and have it done professionally and tell them what to do.... could you let me konw what i would need to have done?

and on a side note... i live in tampa FL, so there is always TONS of humidity and heat (always 80s and 90s) so im assuming this can be taking off a full half second as well in these terrible testing conditions... correct?

sorry for the multiple questions, but i would really like to improve the preformance on my car... please help!

Thanks!
-Frankie

[Bellringer]

OK then it's official. The wife drove our new family member home tonight. Hope she enjoyed the ride. After reading all these posts I have taken BOTH sets of keys away!

For the next few days, I'm going to have a ball!

BTW, Love this forum thread!

[Bentley78]

Originally Posted by Darin Morgan

After you break it in correctly and have about 1500-1800miles on it Its time to turn up the wick and change the car into a REAL quick street car. After I got the CAI, headers and other things done on the car the increase in power was noticeable but not like a "Holy Crap this things bad ass" noticeable. It was more like a," Wow that really helped" noticeable. After you get all the "bolt on" MODs on the car your doing yourself a great disservice if you dont get a tune to make those MODs work to there maximum potential. After I got the first tune, It was like a whole new car. It changed the feel and sound of the car so profoundly that I still have not stopped smiling! I know that the tune voids the warranty but after experiencing how the tune completely and totally changed the feel, experience and the acceleration rate I would not even own the car if I could not do it. That's right. It changed the car so completely that if I had to buy another Camaro and was told that I could not tune it, I would not buy it. I would go get something else. Thats how profound it feels. All the street cars I have ever drove or experienced had nice firm or hard shifts and when you hit the throttle you had soothing to play with. The Stock Camaro with its HORRIBLE Torque management makes the car "soft". It shifts like transmission with the clutch packs half blown out of it. It shifts so soft and gives up so much power on the gear changes that it was actually pissing me off.
A Trans should not shift like that in a high performance car ever! I did a lot of logging with the HpTuners software and e-mailed it to Mike at New Era. He e-mailed me a baseline tune to play with. Nothing to aggressive just somthing that he knew would be safe and fun. I flashed the tune into the car at 4:00p that evening. I was not expecting to feel and experience how profoundly it changed my entire experience with this car and I could not quite driving it until way into the wee hours of the next morning. After laying into the first time after the tune I thought," WOW I finally have a quick street car!". Not blinding fast mind you,, just quick. Thats all I wanted. I didnt want to run high 11s or even low 12s but a nice 12.80 or 12.90 would be just fine. The car will do that now no problem. It Barks the tires on the gear changes now and when it shifts (even at part throttle) it kicks you in the ass.

After experiencing how profoundly a good tune can change this car, I now say SCREW THE WARRANTY!
I dont want it.

Darin, where i live (island) we dont have a dyno, it sounds like when you say "tune" you are speaking of just using the HPtuners computer? This is my only option for a tune and would like to do it but am just not educated on these aftermarket tuning systems. You recomend the HPtuners or is there anything else out there you also suggest?

Thanks.

[chappy48]

Originally Posted by Rocky918

darin,

my car has 1450 miles on it, and unfortunately my BEST 0-60 time was 5.5, with some times being close to 5.9s (thats v6 territory, not l99) ... i will be changing my oil this week, but im upset about these times. i followed your break in procedure as soon as i saw it (which was at 450 miles) ...

i have not done a computer chip reset yet, but i really dont think that will add a full half second will it?

you said that "to turn it into a real street car, do a tune at 1500-1800 miles" or so... but what exactly does this require? i am no car man so i would have to bring it to a tuning shop and have it done professionally and tell them what to do.... could you let me konw what i would need to have done?

and on a side note... i live in tampa FL, so there is always TONS of humidity and heat (always 80s and 90s) so im assuming this can be taking off a full half second as well in these terrible testing conditions... correct?

sorry for the multiple questions, but i would really like to improve the preformance on my car... please help!

Thanks!
-Frankie

Try the fuse pull first. Your car might be stuck on the low octane tables. One guy went from a 13.9 to a 13.3 in the 1/4 mile after a fuse pull IIRC.

[irvinecamaro]

Darin,
Thanks for all your expert advise on this thread. My 2SS LS3 is still at 3000 so it'll be a good month if not more before it gets here so I'm glad I got to read your post before I got my car. I was a little confused about the break-in procedure on the LS3 and here's what I understand, correct me if I'm wrong. Basically, go from 0 - 80 mi/hr (or say 20 - 80mi/hr) going through the gears as usual and shifting at 4000 - 5000 rpm (or should I let it go higher and shift at 6000), then once at 80mi slide the car in neutral (or brake if you must to avoid an accident) then got at it again for 5 - 10 times and then let the car rest for a little while and then got at it again for the first 500 mi or so. Does this sound right to you? Thanks for all your help.

[Darin Morgan]

Originally Posted by Bentley78

Darin, where i live (island) we dont have a dyno, it sounds like when you say "tune" you are speaking of just using the HPtuners computer? This is my only option for a tune and would like to do it but am just not educated on these aftermarket tuning systems. You recomend the HPtuners or is there anything else out there you also suggest?

Thanks.

I am not recommending any specific brand of tuning software because the software is just the tool. You must know that Software such as HPTuners and EFI Live are professional based tuning software. These software platforms are not "Plug and Play hand held" type "tuners" but advanced tuning software platforms for professionals. Just thought you should be aware of that if you dont already know. If you want to know about the complexity of the HPTuners software and how to start tuning go here,

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5058



The "tune" I was speaking off is this. Find a professional tuner in your area and go have him tune your car. There are many specializations in the the broad spectrum of " High Performance Motor Sports". It gets more specialized every day. Just as I specialize in in induction system R&D and design there are individuals who specialize in building Racing engines, street engines, road race engines, Drag Race engines and even specific classes or brands of engines. There are also people who specialize in modifying and tuning OEM vehicles and there EFI systems for increased performance. Find someone in your area that specializes in this specific field and have them tune your car. Its in your best interest to find a Pro and have him tune it because by the time you buy the tuning software, Wide band O2 and go through the steep learning curve (and probably the classes costing $800) to become proficient enough to do this yourself you will have spent ten times what it would cost you to just go and have a Pro do it for you. I purchased the software and am going through the learning curve just because I love to learn this stuff. I have been building and tuning ultra high performance Racing engine for 26 years and it will take me many months of study and practice in my spare time before I become proficient enough to make broad based tuning changes with confidence. I will make mistakes and as a matter of fact, I already have. My first mistake using this tuning software was a VERY stupid rookie mistake that cost me $1200.00 bucks! While flashing the VCM/TCM I lost power while flashing. It fried the TCM module in the transmission. These new Camaro have the TCM module built into the valve body of the trans and the cost was fricken outrageous. Its like the old saying goes. If you want to play, you have to play. I knew I might make some mistakes while screwing around with this thing so I was some what prepared for it.

[Darin Morgan]

Originally Posted by irvinecamaro

Darin,
Thanks for all your expert advise on this thread. My 2SS LS3 is still at 3000 so it'll be a good month if not more before it gets here so I'm glad I got to read your post before I got my car. I was a little confused about the break-in procedure on the LS3 and here's what I understand, correct me if I'm wrong. Basically, go from 0 - 80 mi/hr (or say 20 - 80mi/hr) going through the gears as usual and shifting at 4000 - 5000 rpm (or should I let it go higher and shift at 6000), then once at 80mi slide the car in neutral (or brake if you must to avoid an accident) then got at it again for 5 - 10 times and then let the car rest for a little while and then got at it again for the first 500 mi or so. Does this sound right to you? Thanks for all your help.

I am not going to tell you to go 80-90 or any specific MPH. Thats up to you. Other than that. Yes, I think you have it down..

[Darin Morgan]

Originally Posted by rebelliondog206

With all the talk of the car "learning" during the first few miles of driving, I would guess then that it should 'learn' how it is supposed to breathe right away..... inhale (air intake) as well as exhale (the exhaust). Then tell it the way it is supposed to think and act (tune it), to release its inhibitions and to live to its potential. Makes sense to me.

Let the fun begin......

Makes sense to me as well. Just break it in, bolt on what ever mod you want and can afford at the time and after a couple thousand or even 20 thousand miles (its up to you) you can go get it tuned. Just do it on your own time frame.

[Vicny]

Darin, I skimmed the thread and don't think these questions have been asked....

I just ordered my 1SS 2 weeks ago and expect it to be in by Thanksgiving. I live in Upstate NY and won't be driving it after it's delivered due to winter/salting. It will be stored in my garage until spring...a torturous winter I'm afraid! I realize this sounds goofy to buy the car and then store it, but I have my reasons for buying now.

Anyway, is there any reason I can't/shouldn't follow your break-in in the spring after letting it sit for 5 or so months? Should I start the car occasionally through the winter or just let it sit? Based on your break-in steps it didn't sound like a great idea to just idle and rev it. Should I use fuel stabilizer? Is there anything else I should do when I bring it out in the spring?

Thanks in advance.

[Darin Morgan]

Originally Posted by Vicny

Darin, I skimmed the thread and don't think these questions have been asked....

I just ordered my 1SS 2 weeks ago and expect it to be in by Thanksgiving. I live in Upstate NY and won't be driving it after it's delivered due to winter/salting. It will be stored in my garage until spring...a torturous winter I'm afraid! I realize this sounds goofy to buy the car and then store it, but I have my reasons for buying now.

Anyway, is there any reason I can't/shouldn't follow your break-in in the spring after letting it sit for 5 or so months? Should I start the car occasionally through the winter or just let it sit? Based on your break-in steps it didn't sound like a great idea to just idle and rev it. Should I use fuel stabilizer? Is there anything else I should do when I bring it out in the spring?

Thanks in advance.

Just start it up every two weeks and let it warm up to 100+. Thats about all you can do until warm weather. I have never used Fuel stabilizer so I have no opinion on that.

[Camarodriver]

Darin,

I am almost ashamed to post this here, but here goes. I ordered a 2LT Summit White Camaro and am still waiting. I sold my 75 Camaro (Hipo 350, mucie4 speed custom) to lay down a deposit on the new one. I want to DRIVE my car daily, not store it for my 5 month long Canadian winters, thus the choice of the 6cyl engine.

Do you recommend the same ferocious break in for this all aluminum 6? I was thinking about running high octane gas to train the computer, especially in the beginning, but is this wise? How do I maximize power on this Aussie/world power plant?

[Camarodriver]

Oh and my tranny is a manual 6. -=+=-

[Darin Morgan]

Originally Posted by Camarodriver

Darin,

I am almost ashamed to post this here, but here goes. I ordered a 2LT Summit White Camaro and am still waiting. I sold my 75 Camaro (Hipo 350, mucie4 speed custom) to lay down a deposit on the new one. I want to DRIVE my car daily, not store it for my 5 month long Canadian winters, thus the choice of the 6cyl engine.

Do you recommend the same ferocious break in for this all aluminum 6? I was thinking about running high octane gas to train the computer, especially in the beginning, but is this wise? How do I maximize power on this Aussie/world power plant?

The same rules apply.

[irvinecamaro]

Darin,
Just a stupid follow up question. There's no place around my home where I could break-in my car other than the freeway. I was just trying to think of how I would do it and I realized once I accelerate my LS3 to the desired speed and then shift in to neutral to slow down to say 50 MPH then unless I take an exit i will have to shift in to gear to speed up again which could cause some engine breaking. Any ideas on how to avoid this? Thanks.