[Skyman2112]

I got 315/30s on the back on 20 inch wheels and seems like the outer edges barely touch the ground even with 28 psi of air. Whats a good camber setting for wider than stock tires? Andy advice appreciated!!

[Kerry]

Are they on a 9.5 rim?

[cmitchell17]

I know this doesn't really apply to you but I wanted to get a better camber. I figured it could maybe help with a better contact patch to get more towards zero camber.

When I tried though (at least the one doing my alignment) with the stock suspension and tire setup I could only get to -0.9 on both sides.

I know traction is a weird subject, but not sure how much camber effects it but I would think it could help. I know creating more contact patch through a larger diameter tire supposedly helps straight line traction better than increasing width, but I believe the opposite for lateral traction.

So I guess your optimal camber setup depends on what you are trying to optimize for, like road racing or drag racing or tire life.

[kropscamaro16]

i have -2.5 rear camber but i have adjustable suspension now what are you trying to achieve?

[Laststandard]

i had -1.6* and had nice, even wear across the rear tires.

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

I know this doesn't really apply to you but I wanted to get a better camber. I figured it could maybe help with a better contact patch to get more towards zero camber.

When I tried though (at least the one doing my alignment) with the stock suspension and tire setup I could only get to -0.9 on both sides.

I know traction is a weird subject, but not sure how much camber effects it but I would think it could help. I know creating more contact patch through a larger diameter tire supposedly helps straight line traction better than increasing width, but I believe the opposite for lateral traction.

So I guess your optimal camber setup depends on what you are trying to optimize for, like road racing or drag racing or tire life.

I had a very good alignment shop try and get me as close to 0 degrees camber on both rears for a flat foot print to maximize traction from a dig. All he could get was -.8 on the drivers side and - .4 on the pass side rear. It was at -1.3 and -1.1 before adjustment.

[dpevans]

Originally Posted by lt4camaro

I had a very good alignment shop try and get me as close to 0 degrees camber on both rears for a flat foot print to maximize traction from a dig. All he could get was -.8 on the drivers side and - .4 on the pass side rear. It was at -1.3 and -1.1 before adjustment.

I have been following alignment threads close the last several months deciding whether or not I want a track alignment when I get a new set put on before track season next year and it's my understanding that you have to have negative camber or the tire will roll when cornering. I plan on getting adjustable rear toe links so I can get more negative camber. Not sure zero camber is a good thing but I could be wrong.

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by dpevans

I have been following alignment threads close the last several months deciding whether or not I want a track alignment when I get a new set put on before track season next year and it's my understanding that you have to have negative camber or the tire will roll when cornering. I plan on getting adjustable rear toe links so I can get more negative camber. Not sure zero camber is a good thing but I could be wrong.

For normal street driving, cornering etc, having a IRS set up with less negative camber or close to zero is not a issue. A typical fixed or solid rear axle has no camber in the rear. Lots of negative camber is for flat out road course driving and noticeable inside tire wear after as little as 10k street miles.

[Skyman2112]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

i have -2.5 rear camber but i have adjustable suspension now what are you trying to achieve?

Was hoping for best 60ft times at the drag strip. The wheels are 20x11 with 315s.

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by Skyman2112

Was hoping for best 60ft times at the drag strip. The wheels are 20x11 with 315s.

Skyman2112, The best 60 ft times are achieved with the flattest rear tire foot print you can achieve or zero degrees camber.

[cmitchell17]

I made it about 12k with this 275/35 stock size Nitto NT555R2 on the back with the camber as flat as they could supposedly get it at -0.9 degrees on both sides. You can see it is still wearing way bad on the inside:


So it appears we are at the limit of the suspension geometry, and we may have to change to a aftermarket upper control arm to get closer to zero in the rear?

By the way, the fronts (I can't remember what the camber was set at in the front, I think the stock setting though) were showing the cords on the inside it was wearing so bad on the inside from the camber. This was on Nitto NT05 regulars not R compound that are 200 tread ware I think.

[sr71bb]

What wears your tires out the FASTEST is to have too much TOE IN or TOE OUT. If you rub Toe In Toe OUT settings around NEUTRAL then you can run some pretty aggressive camber settings.

Below I was running these settings on BOTH the track and for daily driving. I wasnt getting any abnormal wear so I since have adjusted the FRONT camber to -3.5 degrees and still no excessive wear, I have SPL Toe Rods so that I could get MORE than -2.0 on the rear. I also have VORSHLAG camber plates to get the -3.5 degrees FRONT camber.

For daily driving I have MS 305 30 19 tires on APEX 19 x 10.5 wheels. For the track I run Pirelli slicks 305 660 18 on APEX 18 x 11 rims

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

What wears your tires out the FASTEST is to have too much TOE IN or TOE OUT. If you rub Toe In Toe OUT settings around NEUTRAL then you can run some pretty aggressive camber settings.

Below I was running these settings on BOTH the track and for daily driving. I wasnt getting any abnormal wear so I since have adjusted the FRONT camber to -3.5 degrees and still no excessive wear, I have SPL Toe Rods so that I could get MORE than -2.0 on the rear. I also have VORSHLAG camber plates to get the -3.5 degrees FRONT camber.

For daily driving I have MS 305 30 19 tires on APEX 19 x 10.5 wheels. For the track I run Pirelli slicks 305 660 18 on APEX 18 x 11 rims

Thanks, and yeah that makes sense that you can still get away with aggressive camber since you have to have the combination of toe in/out with camber to create faster wear rate. In this case I think I got good life from the front NT05 regulars considering their treadwear rating. Of course I'm sure the biggest factor is how much aggressive turning you do and of course above all if you do a burnout you can literally see money flying out the window.

Do you think increasing camber more towards zero in the back, considering not caring about cornering performance and only straight line, will help that much with straight line traction?

I would also think having the slight negative (-0.9 degrees) may get more right as you get squat and weight transfer though? So maybe it gets more flat when the rear squats?

[Dabjbr]

I think you generally get more rear contact patch when it’s squats during launch because there’s shift in weight. That said, the more a corner is compressed, the more negative camber it creates… at least that’s my understanding.

So if you’re only about 1/4 runs and want more contact, it does makes sense to get closer to 0 camber.