08-03-2016, 04:29 PM | #1 |
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Pre-Emptive Battery Replacement?
My car is about 5 1/2 years old now. Every previous battery in my cars has needed to be replaced at about 5 years. Last few times I've noticed that batteries that seemed to be working fine on Tuesday can't crank at all on Wednesday. I've always had a stick, so a battery that can't crank the engine could always be bypassed by pushing the car and popping the clutch.
But this baby is HEAVY! I'm not sure I could get it going fast enough by myself. So my question is - should I jump and replace the battery even though it is working fine? Anyone have a stock battery that went well beyond 5 years? Has anyone else experience with popping the clutch on our cars? |
08-03-2016, 05:06 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2014 2SS blue Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Socal
Posts: 689
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Change the battery. Save yourself the pain in the arse of it failing at an inoppotune time. You're lucky it went this long. I've had the OEM GM batteries fail at 4 years.
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08-03-2016, 05:15 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2018 Charger SRT 392 F8 Green Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oakville Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,910
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I'm going through the same thing OP. I bought my camaro in July 2010 and I'm still running the original battery. I don't even put a tender on it during the winter and it's still running strong. Well as strong as a 5+ year battery runs anyways. I'm debating if I should change it now or wait longer. However I don't want to be in a situation where it doesn't start somewhere or sometime so I'm leaning towards changing it now.
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08-03-2016, 05:34 PM | #4 |
El Duderino
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Seems 5 years is about it. Is the OEM an AGM battery?
Check this out: The DieHard on my twin-cylinder Craftsman lawn mower lasted over 12 YEARS!
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I bowl. Drive around. The occasional acid flashback.
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08-03-2016, 05:37 PM | #5 |
I.AM.
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS/A6 cammed-n-whippled Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 2,638
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Being that the battery is in the trunk, it "should" last longer... No extreme heat.
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08-03-2016, 06:05 PM | #6 |
10,060 Miles as of 06/21
Drives: ‘10 2SS/RS, ‘17 Colo ZR2, ‘98 Tahoe Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Worth/Dallas Metroplex
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I've had my 2010 for 6 years, 5 months and I'm also still running the OEM battery with no issues. There are instances when the car isn't driven for up to two weeks at a time and yet it still starts right up, even without a battery tender.
I always carry both jumper cables and a portable jump-start power source in the event that the battery fails, so no worries here.
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"The road goes on forever and the party never ends." - REK
"If we get a little crazy, blame it on the alcohol." PG "It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog." MT "All bleeding stops eventually." Camaro EMT Patient: “This is my first time in an ambulance.” Me: “Mine too.” LOL |
08-03-2016, 06:07 PM | #7 |
Got mine!
Drives: 2021 LT1 RS - Orange Crush Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fallbrook, CA
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Oooo... Good idea. I think a battery swap is in order. 5 years has been my experience with battery life. Thanks for bringing it up. Good lookin' out! I gonna go get me a new battery.
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08-03-2016, 08:28 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2013 Triple Black ZL1 Vert M6 ECF Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Trenton, Michigan
Posts: 7,047
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After no issues for 3 1/2 years and 30k miles, I was polishing my car one day and left the radio on at low volume for 5 hrs. Tried to start the car and not enough umph to turn it over fast enough. 1 hour on the battery tender and all was fine.
After that I decided to heck with it, and preventively bought a new battery. |
08-03-2016, 08:34 PM | #9 |
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Typically cold tears a battery down faster than heat. Here in Utah, 3 to 5 years is pretty standard.
I just lost the battery in my 2012 Wrangler last fall.. Replace it and save yourself the trouble of being stranded in a parking lot somewhere. Also, with fuel injected vehicles.. Popping the clutch is NOT a guarantee.. You pray that you have fuel present to kick it over. I'm about 50/50 on this one. The fuel pump needs that battery to pump up the rail. |
08-03-2016, 09:48 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2014 2SS blue Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Socal
Posts: 689
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My experience with batteries that failed is that they build conductive sulphide particulates in the electrolyte from the charge-discharge process, which settles to the bottom of the battery case. Eventually, these conductive particulates build up high enough to short the lead plates to one another, causing the loss of charge and ability to retain a charge. Deep cycle marine batteries differ mainly in how high the plates are off the bottom of the case.
Working in a service station 40+ years ago taught me that you can often "restore" a battery by draining the electrolyte and flushing those particulates out with a garden hose, refill with new electrolyte, and charge.
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08-03-2016, 11:03 PM | #11 |
I just replaced my battery this week after it started making noises when I cranked it over. Checked it out and sure enough it was going bad. A little over 4 years old and 31,000 miles. Garaged all the time.
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2012 2SS/RS 45th Anniversary Edition 2012 to present 2010 2SS/RS Summit White 2009 to 2012 1998 RS V-6 Silver with T-tops. 1998 to 2000 1993 Z28 Red Wrecked (twice) 2014 to 2016 1988 RS Blk lowered custom rims 1988 to 2000 Stolen 1976 LT Ruby Red 1976 to 1988 (He's dead Jim) |
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08-04-2016, 02:31 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2018 1SS M6 Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,617
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My 2011 had the original in it. I've had the car two years and thought it always cranked slow. Been getting slower, so I replaced it last week. Cranks much better now.
Replace it before it dies. With all of the electronics in these cars, dead batteries can be a real PIA. |
08-04-2016, 05:50 AM | #13 |
Account Suspended
Drives: car Join Date: May 2008
Location: location
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I believe if you consult your owners manual you'll discover the manufacturer stipulates that you should NEVER push start a modern manual car with a dead/failed battery. If the battery doesn't have enough power to run the PCM, BCM, fuel pump, fuel injectors, etc., etc., etc., bad stuff can happen when you start turning things.
From 2012 Camaro owners manual under "Jump Starting": Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. Last edited by MLL67RSSS; 08-04-2016 at 06:38 AM. |
08-04-2016, 06:02 AM | #14 |
Drives: '18 SS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Jax, FL
Posts: 405
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definitely replace the battery if you can afford it! i recently had to replace my battery but it was a nightmare. i started my car saturday, and i got CEL, brake, service stabilitrak, and ABS lights. i pulled the engine codes and it came back with all kinds of ECM, TCM, BCM and network codes. i started chasing every single wire, looking for any signs of cuts, burns, or wear, or maybe even a bad module. checked every fuse, checked EVERYTHING. took it to my mechanic, he's seen thousands of camaros.
He told me, when the car senses a battery is going bad or low on voltage, it shuts down "CAN bus A" (which includes TCM, network, and everything else i got codes for) in order to ensure the car had enough power to operate ABS. so thats why all those CEL were on. Replaced my battery, and havent had problems since then. weird Long story short, replace the battery if you think it might fail! |
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