Looking for interior glass cleaning tips?

[AbsoluteMayheM]

I read some good tips for cleaning the exterior, but I was not sure if this applied to the interior as well. I am not sure if there is anything I should look out for when cleaning the interior side of the glass. I am talking the windows, not things like mirrors. Just to be clear.

Also getting the entire interior windshield glass cleaned can be a pain to even reach everywhere. So even tricks or tools people found that made getting those hard to reach spots clean.

My car is stock with no aftermarket tint, I was told it was owned by a non smoker but I just cant seem to get ride of the grim on the interior. I have used various glass cleaners. The best luck I have had was with invisible glass. But I am not sure if the previous owner used any glass treatments like RainX on the glass.

So for mean I was looking for A to Z tips on glass cleaning. Striping it down to glass to remove any previous treatments, cleaning/polishing and then finally I would assume there is some kind of sealant/treatment at the end.

[AbsoluteMayheM]

36 views no posts?

[ihaveacamaro]

I find it very weird that glass cleaner isn't working. Normally I would never say this, but you say you have no tint. If you need something with a bit more bite, use some APC on a microfiber, spread it around on the interior of the window, clean with a different microfiber. Then use a third microfiber in conjunction with invisible glass, and a fourth microfiber to dry. That *should* do it. Repeat with APC if necessary.

[AbsoluteMayheM]

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

I find it very weird that glass cleaner isn't working.

it seems like no matter how much I use a glass cleaner on it is has a "film" on the inside of the windshield.

I am pretty anal about cleaning cars, and everything has its own microfiber towel. So in the case of windows, I spray my blue microfiber towel with invis glass, apply it on and give it a rub. I use a orange towel to wipe off excess and then I do a final wipe down with a white towel that is usually like 99% dry.

Most of my stuff is color coded. I have yellow towels that I use for waxing only. white towels are usually always for dry.

I have tons of good quality microfiber towels and I have several colors of them. I buy them a few times a year when they go on sale. I like the packs that have like different 5-6 colors.

Blue is anything wet, or application.

Orange is after the wet or removal

yellow is for waxes

White is for dry ONLY

Green is for plastic cleaners

grey or brown is sealants only

I hand wash them and rinse any towels I use and hang dry them in my tool shed.

As the towels wear out I start using them for applying polishing. or dedicate them to things like rubber cleaners or wheel wells. I can always tell these cause they are clean but are usually fairly stained. I likely have a pile of like 20 or so mirofibre "rags" now that are for general purpose now, like wiping down spilled gas on my lawn mower, and just to be sure I dont use them again, i cut off a corner of the towel. Even my 10yo son knows that a "rag" to clean off is bike is a rag with a missing corner!

My fear was that maybe it is some kind of anti-fog or rainx sealant on the inside and maybe a glass cleaner is not harsh enough to remove it.

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by AbsoluteMayheM

it seems like no matter how much I use a glass cleaner on it is has a "film" on the inside of the windshield.

I am pretty anal about cleaning cars, and everything has its own microfiber towel. So in the case of windows, I spray my blue microfiber towel with invis glass, apply it on and give it a rub. I use a orange towel to wipe off excess and then I do a final wipe down with a white towel that is usually like 99% dry.

Most of my stuff is color coded. I have yellow towels that I use for waxing only. white towels are usually always for dry.

I have tons of good quality microfiber towels and I have several colors of them. I buy them a few times a year when they go on sale. I like the packs that have like different 5-6 colors.

Blue is anything wet, or application.

Orange is after the wet or removal

yellow is for waxes

White is for dry ONLY

Green is for plastic cleaners

grey or brown is sealants only

I hand wash them and rinse any towels I use and hang dry them in my tool shed.

As the towels wear out I start using them for applying polishing. or dedicate them to things like rubber cleaners or wheel wells. I can always tell these cause they are clean but are usually fairly stained. I likely have a pile of like 20 or so mirofibre "rags" now that are for general purpose now, like wiping down spilled gas on my lawn mower, and just to be sure I dont use them again, i cut off a corner of the towel. Even my 10yo son knows that a "rag" to clean off is bike is a rag with a missing corner!

My fear was that maybe it is some kind of anti-fog or rainx sealant on the inside and maybe a glass cleaner is not harsh enough to remove it.

Glad you keep a good store of microfibers

Try with the APC as I mentioned above and see if that helps

[WiSSDiver]

Sorry, I looked but did get time to post.

Your biggest problem area is likely behind the break light in the rear window. Try wrapping a MF towel around a spatuala. I agree with Roshan, try some APC then follow up with your window cleaner on the other problem spots. It should go with out saying but make sure your using the right towels.

Finally, of that doesn't work, try clay baring the window and follow up with your glass cleaner.

http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detai...ing_Glass.aspx

Good luck

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by WiSSDiver

Sorry, I looked but did get time to post.

Your biggest problem area is likely behind the break light in the rear window. Try wrapping a MF towel around a spatuala. I agree with Roshan, try some APC then follow up with your window cleaner on the other problem spots. It should go with out saying but make sure your using the right towels.

Finally, of that doesn't work, try clay baring the window and follow up with your glass cleaner.

http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detai...ing_Glass.aspx

Good luck

clay barring the windows, great tip! Totally forgot about that

I would do APC first, and then if that doesn't work, move up to clay bar.

[WiSSDiver]

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

clay barring the windows, great tip! Totally forgot about that

I would do APC first, and then if that doesn't work, move up to clay bar.

Yep!

[DarinU]

I had the same trouble, I would think it was clean then once in sunlight I would see streaks. I found it was how I was washing my micro fiber towels. Once I started using a micro fiber towel wash, all my trouble went away.

[axis]

For good measure, claybar the outside as well. I had streaks that wouldn't come out as well. Cleaned outside and in without getting them out. Finally clayed the outside and they magically disappeared.

[AbsoluteMayheM]

Originally Posted by WiSSDiver

Your biggest problem area is likely behind the break light in the rear window. Try wrapping a MF towel around a spatuala. I agree with Roshan, try some APC then follow up with your window cleaner on the other problem spots. It should go with out saying but make sure your using the right towels.

Finally, of that doesn't work, try clay baring the window and follow up with your glass cleaner.

I have a vert, so my break light is on the trunk not in the window. But I do like the spatula idea. that's pretty great. I will try that. I watched the video but again its another exterior cleaning, and he specifically said exterior glass only.

Originally Posted by DarinU

Once I started using a micro fiber towel wash, all my trouble went away.

Yeah I though about that as well. I will try a Brand new unused set of towels. But normally I use a small amount of dawn dish soap when cleaning my towels and go from cleanest to dirtyist and Rinse a LOT. but it might be residue.

When I clay the exterior paint, I will clay the windshield inside and out. Again my thoughts were someone used rainx or window sealant on the interior.

Thanks guys

[Adam's Polishes]

Two tips I'll throw out there:

• Clay bar! Clay barring glass is something that is all too often overlooked. It should certainly help remove whatever you're fighting on the glass.
• Be sure to wipe in separate direction on the interior/exterior glass. Makes it easier to chase down streaking if you know you went horizontal in the interior and vertical on the exterior.

Are you certain the towels you are using have not been contaminated with something else that's giving you trouble? Have you tried newspaper or paper towels just to be sure?

[Adam's Polishes]

Originally Posted by AbsoluteMayheM

Yeah I though about that as well. I will try a Brand new unused set of towels. But normally I use a small amount of dawn dish soap when cleaning my towels and go from cleanest to dirtyist and Rinse a LOT. but it might be residue.

Sorry I missed this, but I'll put money on this being the culprit!

Microfibers need to be washed with non-perfumed detergent with no dyes or fabric softeners. They can also be washed with something like our Microfiber Revitalizer and Brightener. It's made to break down any cleaning materials left over in your towels after use.




Here's an FAQ Dylan wrote on our forums that addresses proper MF cleaning and care:

The next in my series of FAQ threads, addressing our most common questions and concerns with aspects of detailing.

Microfiber. Its probably one of the most, if not THE most important part of a paint correction and care routine. All the effort spent polishing and cleaning can be undone in an instant if the wrong towels are used.

Being that microfiber plays such a pivotal role in the 'shine enthusiasts' collection it seems only fitting that they should receive the appropriate care and cleaning to insure a long and useful life.


PROPER MICROFIBER CLEANING:

1. Always separate lights and darks as well as heavily soiled towels to avoid cross contamination.
2. Wash dark towels and heavily soiled towels (like ones used for metal polishing) in a separate load from other towels. Wash microfiber only with other microfiber, do not mix with cotton or other materials.
3. Pre-treat any stains with Adam's Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener
4. Machine wash using a warm water setting and extra rinse cycle if the machine is equipped.
5. Use Adam's Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener to pre-treat and/or in the wash load. A liquid laundry detergent, no granulated, can be substituted. Make sure it is a dye/perfume free product.
6. Machine dry on a low heat setting with no fabric softener.

SOME TIPS FOR MICROFIBER TOWEL & APPLICATOR CARE:

• Pre-Soak: If you know your detail will be a long one, and you'll be going thru a lot of towels, start a pre-soak bucket. Fill a bucket 1/2 - 2/3rds full of water, add approximately 3-4oz of APC and stir. As towels are used up toss them in the bucket to soak. When the detail is done, pull them out, wring out excess water, and proceed with your usual wash routine. The pre-soak will help prevent stubborn stains from setting in and make routine cleaning easier. Adam's Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener can be used for pre-soaking, but given the volume needed APC works as an effective option.
• Taking it a Step Further: Put a grit guard in the bottom of your pre-soak bucket. Larger contamination dislodged from the towels in the soaking process will then be kept separate from the towels and making sure they come as clean as possible in the wash.
• Spot Treatments: Sometimes there will be spots that just don't come out in the wash. Fear not! Most times a more concentrated cleaning in that area and another washing will remove them or at least reduce them. Use Adam's Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener to spot treat, scrub really well with your fingers or against a grit guard to work the cleaner in deep. Flush with water and wash as usual.
• Storage: Microfiber towels should always be stored in a clean, dust free environment. Avoid storing them where small creepy-crawly critters may find their way into the pile so you don't end up with an unpleasant surprise. Plastic storage totes make excellent storage and organization systems for your towels while ensuring you'll have clean, dust free towels at the ready.
• Air Dry If Possible: Machine drying your towels is fine, but any amount of abuse you can spare them will help prolong their lives. If possible line/air dry your towels, they may feel a tad crispy, but this is remedied simply with a mist of Waterless Wash or Detail Spray before use or even a few second tumble in the dryer.
• Boiling Towels: Over time your towels may accumulate a buildup of waxes, polish residue, polymers, or even fabric softener residue from the dryer. The best way to remedy lack of absorbency or linting from these issues is boiling -
  
  1. Simply bring a large pot of water to boil
  2. Add in 2-3 capfuls of white vinegar.
  3. Add a couple towels at a time and allow them to boil.
  4. Try to avoid allowing the towels to sit against the sides or bottom of the pot for too long.
  5. After a few moments pull each towel out (using tongs to be safe) and flush under cool water.
  6. Wash these towels using your usual routine and they should be as good as new!
  
  

Like anything else detailing, taking good care of your tools and accessories means they'll take good care of you. Microfiber being 100% man made means its much more durable than many naturally occurring fibers, so make sure to treat your towels with care and they'll serve you well for a long time!


UPDATE 11/27/12 - Woolite and Microfiber Cleaning

Based on the semi-obsessive nature of many enthusiast detailers its no surprise that they'd choose products to clean their towels that are designated as "gentle" or "delicate" washing solutions. Unfortunately this is a bit of unfounded assumption compounded by less than qualified opinions.

WHATS IN YOUR TOWELS?

When you think about the contamination thats in your towels after a use you're talking about a pretty thick ****tail of polymers, waxes, oils, and other stubborn residues that need strong detergents to remove. Take for example waxes and sealants... these are products that BY DESIGN resist removal from detergents, water, heat, etc on your paint. A "good durable" wax or sealant is defined by its ability to resist detergents thru more than a few washs. These products behave no differently when buried deep within the fibers of your towels. Anyone whos tried to strip wash quick sealant or machine super sealant knows that sometimes it takes a pretty aggressive mix of APC to get it completely removed.

So knowing what kind of fight these products put up on your paint, why assume they'd be so much more easy going when bonded to a towel fiber? They aren't. This is why a stronger detergent or dedicated microfiber cleaner like Adam's Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener is key to maintaining your towels. Removing product residues is just as important to your microfiber as any other part of their care.

HOW DOES THIS IMPACT TOWEL PERFORMANCE?

Just like you want to avoid detergents with dyes, perfumes, or softeners so your towels are not clogged up with additives after cleaning you want to make sure the detergent you use removes the contamination that was there in the first place.

Microfiber, while important to your detail routine, is not a silk blouse or your delicate unmentionables. Its a tool for cleaning, and should be cleaned properly to maintain performance. A buildup of polymers and waxes in the towel fibers, not removed be delicate detergents like woolite, will continue to build up making towels feel less soft, less absorbent, or perform less effectively after each use. As such Adam's Officially does not endorse the use of Woolite as the primary detergent for cleaning our microfiber towels.

[AbsoluteMayheM]

Originally Posted by Nick@Adams

Sorry I missed this, but I'll put money on this being the culprit!

Next time I do a wash, I will use some o those towl cleaning tips. Thanks



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