Officially (not) totaled #799 Final Update

[pmili75]

I already told them I want it but they have to give me a number.

My fear is the salvage will be around $25k and then I probably have to walk away. I think $15k is a reasonable repair bill to put in on the track but that might be light.

[Jeuprx-8]

i bet salvage cost for you to buy it is $17,5.

I will buy the brakes and the engine if you want to part it out. let me know.

[olblue75]

I want the cats

[My 5th]

$15K IS light for repairs. My SS was broad sided, needed a new left rear quarter panel and passenger door and other minor repairs and the shop billed my insurance around $18K as I recall. I didn't need body straightening or nearly as much work as the OP's car needs. I'd guess closer to $25K to repair.

[762ch]

15k won't fix that. Two rear rails, new floor, new rearbody, tail lamp pockets, one/possibly two new rails in the front, engine out, dash out, repair strut towers, airbags, seatbelts, air bag computer, and repair any damage to the engine. Rad, a/c, misc parts, labor and paint.

Prob close to double, 30k is more like it. You don't want a hack shop to fix that then send you off to the races! Litterally off to the races. Good luck, sounds like you made it out in one piece.

[Immortan]

I assumed the 15k because I don't think OP going for showroom quality if he is going to track it. They can use a frame machine and pull what they can out, and then cover the rest with replacement panels. To fix it right, yes it will be very expensive.
If the strut towers are jacked, then the geometry of the suspension is jack, not worth saving. But the body shop will measure all of this to check the tolerances.

[pmili75]

Originally Posted by Immortan

I assumed the 15k because I don't think OP going for showroom quality if he is going to track it. They can use a frame machine and pull what they can out, and then cover the rest with replacement panels. To fix it right, yes it will be very expensive.
If the strut towers are jacked, then the geometry of the suspension is jack, not worth saving. But the body shop will measure all of this to check the tolerances.

You are 100% on point.

If the suspension geometry is out at all. Game over.

The rear would get pulled out and original bumper cover put back on an touched up. $1,000.00 vs probably over $10,000 to fix it right. Keep in mind the trunk closes and latches fine. and the tail lights aren't even scratched.

The front would get pulled and its possible you could even get the rails straight enough. It appears all the bending is on the forward frame rail extensions. This would not be an acceptable repair for a street car however, I would however be putting in a full road course cage.

No airbag or airbag computers would be repaired all remaining side airbags would be sold, seats etc.

[Mgizzle]

Here is my opinion. You could make about 15-20k parting it out. However, this would mean you spending time tearing stuff up, shipping stuff and dealing with potential issues you are not aware of like "Hey dude, these rotors are cracked" or "Hey dude, something going on with this engine after the accident" etc. They will also take the 15-20k off your check if you didn't buy it.

Take the check, hurry up to the dealer and buy a 2015 1LE at these silly prices for $32k. Go enjoy it on the track. I am 3 sec slower at local race tracks than a z/28....ooooooooook, who cares. I am not winning anything and the car is way cheaper to track, easier to learn how to drive fast etc. Don't get me wrong, the z/28 is better in every way and if you have the means go for it. But you will get over the accident easier I think going back with a way cheaper car without having wasted months parting things out and then having to scrap the chassis etc. It becomes a "hoard car" very quick.

[hworth18]

One of the guys in my local club just bought back his totaled 2013 ZL1 for $9000. I believe the buy-back price is a percentage of the salvage value but I don't know what percentage that is.

[TLSTWIN]

Originally Posted by Mgizzle

Here is my opinion. You could make about 15-20k parting it out. However, this would mean you spending time tearing stuff up, shipping stuff and dealing with potential issues you are not aware of like "Hey dude, these rotors are cracked" or "Hey dude, something going on with this engine after the accident" etc. They will also take the 15-20k off your check if you didn't buy it.

Take the check, hurry up to the dealer and buy a 2015 1LE at these silly prices for $32k. Go enjoy it on the track. I am 3 sec slower at local race tracks than a z/28....ooooooooook, who cares. I am not winning anything and the car is way cheaper to track, easier to learn how to drive fast etc. Don't get me wrong, the z/28 is better in every way and if you have the means go for it. But you will get over the accident easier I think going back with a way cheaper car without having wasted months parting things out and then having to scrap the chassis etc. It becomes a "hoard car" very quick.

+1
Not to mention your safety "crush zones" have now been compromised. Your "next accident" could end up a whole lot worse

[Explit Player]

So..... Is nobody gonna ask how this happened?

Edit: Nvm I saw the old thread

[pmili75]

Originally Posted by Explit Player

So..... Is nobody gonna ask how this happened?

Edit: Nvm I saw the old thread

Check out the thread titled:

Running out of talent...death of a Z/28 (warning explicit photo)

[pmili75]

Btw...... Officially not totaled..insurance company isn't sure now!?!?

To be continued.....

[Mgizzle]

Oh boy...