[dbs1]

This car ROCKS!!

My only complaint is the stock pads are just not quite up to the task of being pushed hard and this short track (115 mph straight) isn’t nearly the test November’s 150mpg straight will be, so better track pads are in order!

One other thing-whether in track/sport 2 or track/track it lays down coming out of a corner and doesn’t allow wot for like 1.5 seconds which might save my butt, but maddening if the car next to ya takes off and you’ve got to chase em down. I thought this wouldn’t happen in track/track but no different then track/sport 2.

Ideas, or is this the nature of the beast with no way to solve it?

[mblum]

Congrats on your first track day, this car has huge potential for sure.

In regards to the car laying down out-of corners, the system won't do that with everything turned off. It actually puts the power down very well coming out of a corner.

For the brakes, if you still have stock brake fluid you will need to upgrade that. During my recent track day I did 9 20 minute sessions with outstanding brake performance braking from 135, 125, 110 down to 55mph each time per 1:43 lap with no fade. I push my car very hard into the brake zones as well

If you haven't yet consider a more aggressive alignment, it really improves balance and grip.

Finally watch your tire temps. I found not exceeding hot tire psi of 37 front, 35 rear seems to be best at my local track. Keep a close eye on temps and note any changes you see.

Prepare to be addicted.

[ariZona28]

Sounds to me like you did the East track event and you're looking forward to Mondo. Good stuff. Head out to AMP also, very nice clean well maintained facility. The pit at East track is almost 4X4 country!

[SFV1LE]

Are you guys running the OEM non-1LE GYs or 3R or other R comp? Also, what is max front camber on the standard ZL1? Without R comps and -2.8+ I think I'd struggle with grip.

The stock pads have handled a lot of abuse from me, and I know people who ran some of the fastest ZL1 laps ever on these so I don't think OEM pads are a weakness. They might wear out faster than other options, but as others have said, good fluid is the key with ZL1 brakes--get Castrol SRF or Brembo Racing, Motul 660 is disappointing.

[dbs1]

A little clarification here-

I ran with this group in a few other cars for 15 years but this is the first time back at the track in 5 years and the first with this car. I'm running SRF fluid and there was no fade, just kind of a squishy non confidence inspiring brake pedal.

Coming from a 3100lb 600bhp C5 Z06 last I was tracking that my son has put a big Wilwood brake kit on and THAT to me has a much better brake feel, and 800lbs lighter it just stops better. Chassis is obviously not as sorted, but that may be why the brakes jumped out at me, those are better.

As far as turning all the nannies off, it appears I'm not clear exactly how to do that to get rid of that hesitation out of a corner, so what's the procedure?

All other track cars I've run Nitto NT01 so running a non r comp tire today with the gy3's I was giving up a little bit, but the car is so good I was probably only able to get 7/10 out of it, even with lapping the field. Car has a lot left in it, I have a little left in me.

[gtfoxy]

More & more I’m wanting to hit Road America next year.

I’ve been watching vids & it looks like a riot. Won’t be looking to be Fangio, but the thought of letting it rip on the home stretch would be worth the price of admission.

[mblum]

Originally Posted by dbs1

As far as turning all the nannies off, it appears I'm not clear exactly how to do that to get rid of that hesitation out of a corner, so what's the procedure?

Maybe others can chime in on a better way, but when I run a track day I go "Track Mode" and then hold the traction control button for 7 seconds, this should turn off traction control and stabi-trac. It sounds like you have previous track experience so you should know what to expect when everything is off, this shouldn't be done if someone is doing their first track day ever. Also, my home track has very safe run-offs and no walls to worry about. So if a spin happens usually only my ego is hurt, not the car.

Even with everything turned off I can feel some intrusion (and can hear it in the exhaust note) if I push too hard and get the car sideways.

The "holding the traction control button for 7 seconds" was suggested to me from Vette guys at the track as I was complaining of increasing brake pedal near the end of a 20 min session when I first got the car in 2017. I was told the brakes get hotter in more "protective" modes due to brakes being applied from the stabi-trac system trying to maintain control. This may help with your brake issues as well. I found my brake issues went away when I did this in conjunction with good fluid.

One thing I have noticed on this car is the importance of brake modulation when deep hard braking. I think maybe its due to it's weight. Being smooth on the brakes and getting weight transferred to the front is key, this car also trail brakes very well and have found I can brake later and continue to do so deep into the corner and the car stays balanced.

[mblum]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

Are you guys running the OEM non-1LE GYs or 3R or other R comp? Also, what is max front camber on the standard ZL1? Without R comps and -2.8+ I think I'd struggle with grip.

The stock pads have handled a lot of abuse from me, and I know people who ran some of the fastest ZL1 laps ever on these so I don't think OEM pads are a weakness. They might wear out faster than other options, but as others have said, good fluid is the key with ZL1 brakes--get Castrol SRF or Brembo Racing, Motul 660 is disappointing.

I'm still on the OEM GYSC3 standard ZL1 tires. The most negative chamber I can get without modification to the suspension in the front is 2.6 degrees. I agree that I think it needs to be around 3 degrees. This summer I corded the outer edge of my front driver tire after 3 track days and about 25 sessions (20min each).

I keep finding myself going faster on the stock setup, which I account to more seat time and being more smooth with inputs, so I figured I would run one more year this way to improve my driving technique even more before I step up to a sticker tire and more negative chamber.

I'd have to agree on your Motul 660 comment, I found the Brembo fluid to be much better, or SRF if you can find it. The Motul did not give me confident feeling brake system at all and only seemed slightly better than stock. Not sure why....

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by dbs1

This car ROCKS!!

My only complaint is the stock pads are just not quite up to the task of being pushed hard and this short track (115 mph straight) isn’t nearly the test November’s 150mpg straight will be, so better track pads are in order!

One other thing-whether in track/sport 2 or track/track it lays down coming out of a corner and doesn’t allow wot for like 1.5 seconds which might save my butt, but maddening if the car next to ya takes off and you’ve got to chase em down. I thought this wouldn’t happen in track/track but no different then track/sport 2.

Ideas, or is this the nature of the beast with no way to solve it?

my car only hesitates with PTM intervention when it is truly "saving my butt". This intervention occurs if you go to WOT with major steering wheel input etc. The PTM system is smart so you should use it IMHO until you are extremely confident in your ZL1s capabilities. Squeezing the throttle slower will help also. The last 1/8 of the throttle pedal travel is quite a surge so don't squeeze to wide open and you will likely be rewarded. 650hp/650tq requires a little restraint and respect as this car isn't a Miata. Have fun and report your progress!

[dbs1]

My car is 650 whp, not stock. I was stoked to see no overheating on coolant, oil or trans (238/224/226) and tire pressures stayed about 33-35 starting at 28psi cold.

On the east track there is a long gradual right handed sweeper that I never felt intrusion on. The only noticable place was a tight right hander just before the short straight. I'd typically try to be fairly straight before matting it and that was the noticeable lay down, not letting it go wot for the first 200 ft. Not fond of that and my former cars had no such hesitation, with both over 600 bhp.

After reading up it appears we can go to track/race and tap the traction once and the car will then provide all power at wot, just requires right foot modulation.
I will say I find this car easier to do that with then the other cars I've tracked.

Checked front tires this morning and outside edge shows they got a workout. When checking on track I saw from 127-138 degrees. Not sure what's normal for a short track pushing it hard?