01-10-2020, 06:49 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2SS 1LE Silver w/Recaro NPP Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Chester county, PA
Posts: 139
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Cam upgrade- should oil pump be replaced? More questions
2014 1LE with 8000miles. Primary use is HPDE. Oil mods are CAI and big oil cooler.
I’m installing a Cam, valve springs, push rods, headers and a dyno tune. What other supporting mods are needed? Better oil pump or stay with stock? Timing Chain? Which one is really needed? ARP crank bolt vs. OEM ? Also, TSP offers a single bolt cam. Why bother switching to a 3 bolt? I’m considering a BTR stage 2 cam, but I’m open to suggestions. I don’t want to loose any torque and I’m not concerned about “lopey” idle sound. Just want it to perform at the track and not introduce any reliability issues.
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-BtrBimmer
'14 2SS 1LE NPP Recaros |
01-10-2020, 07:03 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2015 SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 537
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Most of what I have read is that we want to keep the stock oil pump or stock pressure/volume. Some have upgraded to a "blueprinted" type aftermarket pump. With our 1le's oil starvation could be an issue in sustained high G turns with the high volume/pressure oil pumps. I am sure there is some that will disagree.
As far as the other mods, it really comes down to what you want to spend money on and piece of mind. With the stage two cam you won't be spinning that high of rpms compared to other cams. There are a lot of cam swaps that people just swapped the cam and have had no problems, others have had problems. You also have low miles compared to someone changing cams a 60,000+mi. Then one mod everyone recommends is upgrading the rocker bearings/bushings. |
01-10-2020, 09:03 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro 2SS RS 1LE AGM Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Galion, Oh
Posts: 531
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Upgrade to a melling oil pump with stock pressure and high volume. OEM oil pumps notorious for failure. Trunion and timing chain upgrade also recommend.
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2015 2SS RS 1LE NPP/w Kooks headers, Procharged, ID1050X injectors, Katech belt tensioner, Mighty Mouse Catch Can, BMR subframe connectors, Matco driveshaft loop, AEM Wideband/Boost/Fuel gauges , Z/28 Splitter and Spoiler/w Wicker bill, Power Stop rotors and brake pads, MRR Z/28 Rep Wheels 20" w/p zeros 285 fronts and 305 rears, ZL1 addons Rock guards and Tow hook, Rear window louvers, Flags on the quarter windows and the moonroof, Billet aluminum door handles.
Last edited by Rons1le; 01-10-2020 at 09:14 AM. |
01-10-2020, 11:40 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2013 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Ixonia wi
Posts: 1,456
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What he said...
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2013 1le- Katech 416 short block, TSP custom grind cam, LOD intake, cnc heads by F.ED., Nick William's 102mm T.B., CORN fed, Pedders coilovers. Performance street alingnment by Justin at Lake Country Alignment and dyno tune by Late Model Throttle.
603 h.p. 495 ft lbs tq. |
01-10-2020, 12:26 PM | #5 |
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
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You don't need a high volume pump. Unless your engine clearances are more loose than factory. Stick with a factory volume pump. If you're running a oil cooler, go with high pressure. Since you will lose pressure with a cooler. So a standard volume/high pressure pump.
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. Last edited by Black_SS10; 01-10-2020 at 01:02 PM. |
01-10-2020, 12:30 PM | #6 |
Drives: 14 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Clinton Twp, MI
Posts: 483
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I would suggest our CNC high pressure oil pump with the improved racing oil pan baffle:
https://store.katechengines.com/gen-34-oil-pump-p5.aspx http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pa...ffle-p-41.html |
01-10-2020, 12:59 PM | #7 |
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
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I second the Improved Racing suggestion. I have an Improved Racing crank scraper and windage tray. They are really nice piece's.
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. Last edited by Black_SS10; 01-10-2020 at 01:39 PM. |
01-10-2020, 02:01 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro 2SS RS 1LE AGM Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Galion, Oh
Posts: 531
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Katech does make great parts. But in the end it all depends on what your doing with the car.
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2015 2SS RS 1LE NPP/w Kooks headers, Procharged, ID1050X injectors, Katech belt tensioner, Mighty Mouse Catch Can, BMR subframe connectors, Matco driveshaft loop, AEM Wideband/Boost/Fuel gauges , Z/28 Splitter and Spoiler/w Wicker bill, Power Stop rotors and brake pads, MRR Z/28 Rep Wheels 20" w/p zeros 285 fronts and 305 rears, ZL1 addons Rock guards and Tow hook, Rear window louvers, Flags on the quarter windows and the moonroof, Billet aluminum door handles.
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01-13-2020, 12:02 PM | #9 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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In a wet sump LS, you need a high volume pump if you have - piston oilers or AFM. The OE engines that have either of those will be a high volume OE pump.
For performance mods without those things, go standard volume, slight increase in pressure, blueprinted pump. Katech pointed you to a great choice. Improved racing makes a nice girdle type bracket for the pickup. I'd definitely use a 3 bolt cam, GM gears, C5R chain, LS2 dogbone dampner. I'd also spend a little extra for the better cam core. OE gears reduce the chance of the cam timing being off. I've had back luck with aftermarket gears in the past, whereas the OE gears are usually spot on. Should always degree a cam, but if starting with good gears and a cam doctored cam, you have a better chance of things being on timing with just a straight up install. |
01-13-2020, 09:42 PM | #10 |
Angewendet Ingenieur
Drives: 14 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 401
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I agree with Rons. High pressure is not needed. Excess pressure is not ideal for the purpose and can contribute to leaking seals. Running an external cooler with a high volume pump will keep the pressures more stable. GM pumps are of poor quality when you compare them side by side with a pump like Melling.
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01-14-2020, 09:34 AM | #11 | |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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Quote:
The oil pump is like many other engine components, should be matched to the whole package. High volume pumps are used where the application needs higher volume, ie piston oilers or an AFM manifold or huge coolers, sumps... If one does not have components requiring the higher volume... a std volume would be more suitable. High pressure pump. IMHO, as performance and engine loads go up, a little extra pressure is a good thing. The oil pressure is a result of the pump and bearing clearances and oil visc.... The builder needs to balance all that. Then you have factors like hydraulic lifters and stiffer valve springs. If the valve springs are tougher to open hydraulically vs stock, do you still want to use stock oil pressure? Me, I'd like a touch more. You can gain a very slight amount of hp by using thin oil, tight clearances, low oil pressure, tons of anti wear ZDDP... the NASCAR engine theory. At the expense of wear and longevity. I'd rather balance in less wear by opening up the bearing clearances, using tri metal bearings, increasing oil pressure and using a reasonable viscosity... ie 10w30 racing synthetic. Just my opinion again, for street performance in a modded engine, I'd do the 10% pressure increase. And base the volume decision on the engine content... does it have piston oilers, AFM, a giant cooling circuit? If an engine is having seal problems, I'd suspect; crankcase pressure, bad seal, bad fit... vs a 10% increase pressure pump as the suspects. If a little more oil pressure causes an engine to leak...the builder deserved that leak. |
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01-14-2020, 10:26 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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hand ported and shimmed stock pump with approx. 20k street/strip miles still gettin 10psi per 1k rpm...saved sum $$$ too.
Good luck! PEACE
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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