[flyinmach1]

Back in Dec. 2021, I made a huge purchase from Jannetty Racing in CT. Ted and Kris specifically were wonderful to work with, big shout out to them once again for helping me with my build. 2019 2SS with A10 trans, went from fully stock to JRE 700 whp terminator package and beyond, 100% assembled by myself and in my garage in about 6 weeks. Ted was super responsive and had me all remote tuned and ready to rip in around 2 weeks. The car is an absolute beast to drive now, I've daily driven it for around 4k miles and I love it even more!

My question is about the heat, which is now a larger factor being SC, and I'm wondering has anyone creatively come up with ways to tackle it in general. During the summer months of 100° temps, I'm seeing IAT/IAT2 temps quickly and easily climb to 140, 150, 160, and sometimes beyond. Mostly when in stop and go traffic of course, but even on the highways at 50-55mph they won't calm down much below 130-140. Also aggravated to some degree with the IAT temp (should be right after the CAI?), which won't cool off much of the time because I can't open the throttle past about 5% without losing traction on the street. Terrible problem to have, I know. LOL

The Maggie intercooler is large and fully capable, however I went to the drag strip recently and sat in the staging line for what seemed like forever before making a couple runs that night. 90+ deg. temps, and IATs would both get to 165-170+ before I was up for a 1/4 mile run. Out of desperation while waiting in line, I would set my fan and coolant pump to run using the Aeroforce gauge @ 19% (which is max setting available), but that did very little to help prior to race time.

I'm thinking of either adding a Lingenfelter 2.5gal aux. tank, and/or installing a custom fan assembly in front of the IC unit up front. Has anyone attempted something like this, outside of the typical interchiller setup? I'm not interested in tapping into the A/C unit and going that route, and also I'm aware of the typical trunk mounted ice tanks available as well. Just looking for alternate ways to fight the heat aside from moving to the north pole.

I'd love to hear ideas, positive or negative or whatever, especially from those creative engineering types out there. The heat soak is insane, and I'm even wondering how to extract heat from the engine bay when I park in my garage! Seems as if my poor RotoFab Big Gulp is just getting heat soaked as well, and can't even function remotely as a CAI. Any help or suggestions would be great, as I'm beyond tired of searching for ideas and need to calm my extreme OCD here.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by flyinmach1

Back in Dec. 2021, I made a huge purchase from Jannetty Racing in CT. Ted and Kris specifically were wonderful to work with, big shout out to them once again for helping me with my build. 2019 2SS with A10 trans, went from fully stock to JRE 700 whp terminator package and beyond, 100% assembled by myself and in my garage in about 6 weeks. Ted was super responsive and had me all remote tuned and ready to rip in around 2 weeks. The car is an absolute beast to drive now, I've daily driven it for around 4k miles and I love it even more!

My question is about the heat, which is now a larger factor being SC, and I'm wondering has anyone creatively come up with ways to tackle it in general. During the summer months of 100° temps, I'm seeing IAT/IAT2 temps quickly and easily climb to 140, 150, 160, and sometimes beyond. Mostly when in stop and go traffic of course, but even on the highways at 50-55mph they won't calm down much below 130-140. Also aggravated to some degree with the IAT temp (should be right after the CAI?), which won't cool off much of the time because I can't open the throttle past about 5% without losing traction on the street. Terrible problem to have, I know. LOL

The Maggie intercooler is large and fully capable, however I went to the drag strip recently and sat in the staging line for what seemed like forever before making a couple runs that night. 90+ deg. temps, and IATs would both get to 165-170+ before I was up for a 1/4 mile run. Out of desperation while waiting in line, I would set my fan and coolant pump to run using the Aeroforce gauge @ 19% (which is max setting available), but that did very little to help prior to race time.

I'm thinking of either adding a Lingenfelter 2.5gal aux. tank, and/or installing a custom fan assembly in front of the IC unit up front. Has anyone attempted something like this, outside of the typical interchiller setup? I'm not interested in tapping into the A/C unit and going that route, and also I'm aware of the typical trunk mounted ice tanks available as well. Just looking for alternate ways to fight the heat aside from moving to the north pole.

I'd love to hear ideas, positive or negative or whatever, especially from those creative engineering types out there. The heat soak is insane, and I'm even wondering how to extract heat from the engine bay when I park in my garage! Seems as if my poor RotoFab Big Gulp is just getting heat soaked as well, and can't even function remotely as a CAI. Any help or suggestions would be great, as I'm beyond tired of searching for ideas and need to calm my extreme OCD here.

I believe with the SS kits, IAT 2 is what you'll want to look at and the sensor itself should be inserted in the front or the back of the blower. In the case of a ZL1, there is an IAT3 or Manifold Air Temp sensor, and that is what the computer references to determine if it should pull timing from the car at higher temps.

The real solution (outside of an IC), is to add more fluid capacity to the cooling system. You can do a non-trunk tank option and it'll help some, but they are typically under the hood or close to the source of the heat. As a frame of reference, with a 6 gallon trunk tank (no ice just water) and upgraded pump, I cruise around at a max of 30 degrees above ambient. At the drag strip on a 95 degree day, I will end the pass at ambient starting with minimal ice in the tank and running bottom 8's. If it's iced down really good and I'm not waiting in line long, it'll be a couple degrees under ambient.

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

I believe with the SS kits, IAT 2 is what you'll want to look at and the sensor itself should be inserted in the front or the back of the blower. In the case of a ZL1, there is an IAT3 or Manifold Air Temp sensor, and that is what the computer references to determine if it should pull timing from the car at higher temps.

The real solution (outside of an IC), is to add more fluid capacity to the cooling system. You can do a non-trunk tank option and it'll help some, but they are typically under the hood or close to the source of the heat. As a frame of reference, with a 6 gallon trunk tank (no ice just water) and upgraded pump, I cruise around at a max of 30 degrees above ambient. At the drag strip on a 95 degree day, I will end the pass at ambient starting with minimal ice in the tank and running bottom 8's. If it's iced down really good and I'm not waiting in line long, it'll be a couple degrees under ambient.

Are you talking about an upgraded IC pump, or another aux pump (in addition to)? With stock cooling, I am running 30 to 40 degrees above ambient on the freeway and 50+ cruising around town. I made a pull last night with 70* ambient. After sitting for a bit getting the computer situated, I started the run at 148*. By the end of the fourth gear pull, I was at 138* and it only pulled .2* timing. So, I'm thinking in 100* weather, I should be running down the freeway at around 150* or a little less. If I can drop a few degrees MAT during a roll, it shouldn't pull too much timing. I can't see any way for you guys at the strip to keep your IAT2 or MAT in check without an interchiller or at least ice.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

Are you talking about an upgraded IC pump, or another aux pump (in addition to)? With stock cooling, I am running 30 to 40 degrees above ambient on the freeway and 50+ cruising around town. I made a pull last night with 70* ambient. After sitting for a bit getting the computer situated, I started the run at 148*. By the end of the fourth gear pull, I was at 138* and it only pulled .2* timing. So, I'm thinking in 100* weather, I should be running down the freeway at around 150* or a little less. If I can drop a few degrees MAT during a roll, it shouldn't pull too much timing. I can't see any way for you guys at the strip to keep your IAT2 or MAT in check without an interchiller or at least ice.

I am referring to an upgraded Stewart water pump for the cooling system. In my case, the stock one is no longer in line. In fact, the temps I referenced above are achieved with no heat exchangers in the car at all. That said, if I was commuting and sitting in traffic, I would certainly put the HX’s back in. I ran it like that for about 4 years and would do spirited mountain runs, drive it to the track (early on), etc.

The temps you referenced are way higher than I’ve seen with the 2650 in any scenario other than sitting still with the car running for a long period of time. A setup like I’m referencing going wide open throttle on a roll in 70* would be in the low-upper 90* area. No ice needed.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

I am referring to an upgraded Stewart water pump for the cooling system.

I believe my Rhodes tank uses a Rule 3700 Pump

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by JSH

I believe my Rhodes tank uses a Rule 3700 Pump

There are a couple options out now I believe. At the time, Stewart was proven in many cars and more readily available. Relatively speaking, the stock pump is junk.

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

I am referring to an upgraded Stewart water pump for the cooling system. In my case, the stock one is no longer in line. In fact, the temps I referenced above are achieved with no heat exchangers in the car at all. That said, if I was commuting and sitting in traffic, I would certainly put the HX’s back in. I ran it like that for about 4 years and would do spirited mountain runs, drive it to the track (early on), etc.

The temps you referenced are way higher than I’ve seen with the 2650 in any scenario other than sitting still with the car running for a long period of time. A setup like I’m referencing going wide open throttle on a roll in 70* would be in the low-upper 90* area. No ice needed.

I have had a number of fellas, including my tuner, tell me that 138 is not high - in that it is not pulling any appreciable timing. At 7K I'm getting 28* of timing and she is running like a scalded dog. When the MATs do get high, timing is pulled and the motor is happy. In my limited experience, I can't see a way to keep the MATs lower than 130*- give or take - without aftermarket cooling. If you're driving in weather that allows stock cooling to get into the 90* neighborhood, it's too cold to use the power anyway. Of course, a strip dedicated car is something else.

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

There are a couple options out now I believe. At the time, Stewart was proven in many cars and more readily available. Relatively speaking, the stock pump is junk.

I assume the aftermarket pumps push a lot more volume. I have read that the coolant can't be pushed too fast through the HE or it won't have time to pull the heat away. So, your Stewart is in place of the stock intercooler pump?

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

I have had a number of fellas tell me that 138 is not high - in that it is not pulling any appreciable timing. At 7K I'm getting 28* of timing and she is running like a scalded dog. When the MATs do get high, timing is pulled and the motor is happy. In my limited experience, I can't see a way to keep the MATs lower than 130*- give or take - without aftermarket cooling. If you're driving in weather that allows stock cooling to get into the 90* neighborhood, it's too cold to use the power anyway. Of course, a strip dedicated car is something else.

I wouldn’t be worried about 138. Cooler air going into an engine is always better, even if timing isn’t being pulled, but to what extent when we are talking about water temps is sometimes argued. In my case at ~1400 RWHP, warm water to ice water was worth only worth 27 RWHP on the dyno.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

I assume the aftermarket pumps push a lot more volume. I have read that the coolant can't be pushed too fast through the HE or it won't have time to pull the heat away. So, your Stewart is in place of the stock intercooler pump?

Yes, it is the only pump in line. I’ve never heard of such a concern from anyone with proven cars. In fact, a benefit of removing the HX’s is that it allows water to move quicker through the entire system. The longer it sits, the hotter it’ll get and more useless it’ll become. The issue for a heavy use street car in that case is there is nothing extracting heat from the water. It’s no issue for casual driving where the car is moving more than stopping and going, or running down a drag strip.

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

Yes, it is the only pump in line. I’ve never heard of such a concern from anyone with proven cars. In fact, a benefit of removing the HX’s is that it allows water to move quicker through the entire system. The longer it sits, the hotter it’ll get and more useless it’ll become. The issue for a heavy use street car in that case is there is nothing extracting heat from the water. It’s no issue for casual driving where the car is moving more than stopping and going, or running down a drag strip.

Even for casual driving, the water will heat up without the HE. I can understand a strip car that gets iced down for every run. But, without a HE, how does the water shed its heat?

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

Even for casual driving, the water will heat up without the HE. I can understand a strip car that gets iced down for every run. But, without a HE, how does the water shed its heat?

Casual driving is left up to interpretation obviously. The longest I’ve driven it like this is 30 minutes. MAT temps sitting still will easily get up into the 150’s while moving it’ll get back down into the 120-130* area. I assume eventually it would get hotter, but for my style of casual driving it’s a non-issue. But again, would never recommend it if the primary goal of the car wasn’t drag racing. The car has ran an 8.39 with literally no ice in the tank and just mild temp water. It’s best to date with more ice is 8.37. Lots more variables come into play with that stat, but I like debunking the belief that ice is always required with ice tanks. Especially when doing comparisons to other forms of cooling that I won’t name.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

Even for casual driving, the water will heat up without the HE. I can understand a strip car that gets iced down for every run. But, without a HE, how does the water shed its heat?

Your trunk is at say 70 and your blower is at say... much higher. The biggest benefit can be seen when put ice in the tank, turn on the tank pump and make a hit. Eventually the water and the tank heats up that's agreed

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by JSH

Your trunk is at say 70 and your blower is at say... much higher. The biggest benefit can be seen when turn on the tank pump and make a hit. Eventually the water and the tank heats up that's agreed

What happens when your trunk is 100*+, which even in your neck of the woods is gonna happen in the summer. Out here where I live, my trunk will be hotter than that.