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Old 06-09-2012, 01:24 PM   #15
cid067
 
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Well thats 200 towards the next upgrade that more than likely will be gears plus the satisfaction of doing it myself. Plus I have this forum if there are any questions that need answering while doing the install.
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:10 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by litle88 View Post
Awesome! Go into it thinking your going to have some fun and get to know your car better. Like a hot date that you know is going to give it up and allow you to stab her with your cam!
Agreed.
Like I have a saying:
If your going to take on a difficult task go about it like its impossible to fail.
If your going to go after Moby Dick, bring the tatar sauce.
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:33 PM   #17
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Ps upgrade while your there, c5r timing chain, melling oil pump, arp cam bolts,arp crank bolt and arp head bolts not head studs.
+1
Haven't did a Cam install in 25+ yrs so left it to the Pros since was getting a bunch of other stuff done there as well.(probably would have went in reverse faster than fwd ) Depending on how big a Cam you go with, don't shortcut supporting parts.(dual hi lift springs,hardened rods,Trunion upgrade kit, etc)May not be mandatory but can cost you a lot more down the road than upfront. Have fun with your install and build.
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:33 PM   #18
litle88
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Do it once do it right bud.
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2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:34 PM   #19
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http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=25309

This tool would also be a nice purchase. It's a little pricey but it's better than having to modify another tool to make it work or try to make it fit. Once you get to the #7 and 8 springs you'll need a low clearance spring compressor. There's not much room back there.
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:28 PM   #20
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Ok loosened all the oil pan bolts but cannot get the oil pan to drop what is the trick
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:36 PM   #21
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Without reading all the other posts... I did mine with 1500 miles on it. Took a Friday night and all day Saturday. Started the car on Sunday. Did not change the oil pump or timing chain. Not hard to do just takes time to do it.
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:05 PM   #22
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Are you following the Robertway DIY? Did you loosen the starter?
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:05 PM   #23
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thanks just got it and oil pump is a b&^*h to get off who would put that tiny bolt back there like that makes no sense.

Anyone have a trick to get it back on
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:06 PM   #24
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It is a bugger to get back on. Just keep playing with it and it will eventually almost fall back on. Try to line up the key ways.
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:23 PM   #25
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Are you talking about the oil pick up tube?
If so be careful not to drop it in the pan and torque it to specs, I'd see if I can place something do it doesn't fall in and just falls out.
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:24 PM   #26
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Are you talking about the oil pick up tube?
If so be careful not to drop it in the pan and torque it to specs, I'd see if I can place something do it doesn't fall in and just falls out.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:23 PM   #27
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I plan to do my own cam install later this fall. I don't drive my car in the winter so I will take my sweet time as I get free time.

One thing I recommend you should do is buy/borrow some good quality tools such as proper harmonic balancer puller/installer, valve spring compressor and a nice cam degree kit to ensure the cam is timed properly. Most likely the cam will be timed +/- 1 degree which is ok but you would sleep better at night knowing that info precisely. Be sure to check the piston to valve clearances and check for proper pushrod length.

If you're thinking to cut corners and use crappy tools to save $$, don't bother and let someone else do it right the first time. It will cost you way more to redo.
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Old 08-18-2012, 12:06 AM   #28
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So cam in timing chain on oil pump on PITA but cannot get oil pickup to flush up against the oil pump will try again in the morning with a clear head.
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