11-09-2016, 10:28 AM | #43 |
Drives: 1SS, A8, MRC, NPP, Blade Spoiler Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: MD
Posts: 1,485
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Very true, this is why I had such a hard time slamming it into turn 1. I have always tried to have smooth movements, and stabbing the brake pedal suddenly with great force goes against smooth movements. But, it was clear I was too reluctant to brake later and harder. That was the biggest struggle for me.
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11-09-2016, 10:54 AM | #44 | |
Drives: 2016 1SS Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: DC
Posts: 927
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1SS, Black, Black Wheels, A8, MRC, NPP
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11-11-2016, 03:30 PM | #45 | |
Door ding magnet
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My wife and I have done 4 track days with FATT on Summit Point Main. Learning how to brake with great force but smoothly is in my opinion the most challenging part of becoming a better track driver. I'm certainly still working on it. In my 2010 SS (automatic) with Hawk HP+ pads, I'm usually hitting the brakes at the 500' marker and I'm usually around 125 mph, depending on how well I hit turn 10 and if I had traffic to deal with on the straight. I think if you upgraded your brake pads to a good track pad, you'd have a LOT more confidence in braking. Hopefully I'll run into you one day next year at Summit. We're planning on doing at least 2 track days there next year. Michael
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"When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting." |
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11-11-2016, 04:16 PM | #46 | |
Drives: 1SS, A8, MRC, NPP, Blade Spoiler Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: MD
Posts: 1,485
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I can see myself upgrading to a better pad at some point. Was thinking of getting some ceramic pads for street use, then switching to different pads and rotors for the track. I already have to take the calipers and rotors off to change the splash shield and air deflector anyway. Might as well keep separate pads and rotors for track days. The stock pads do perform very well though. I just don't like all the dust. Ceramic pads will fix that. |
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11-15-2016, 01:55 PM | #47 |
Drives: 2016 1SS Join Date: May 2016
Location: Syracuse
Posts: 94
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A set of race pads/rotors and a second set of tires will end up being more cost effective in the long run.
I went completely through both the OEM pads (to about 30%, I typically toss pads at 50%) and tires (bald) in one weekend (not finishing last two sessions). Granted I'm an instructor and driving my own car in expert groups. Using "street" tires on the track will wear them too fast, and using "track" tires on the street is a waste of heat cycles. |
01-16-2017, 08:33 PM | #48 |
2 things. 1. why doesn't the dealer ask us from the beginning if we want the "track transmission prep"? Who wouldn't?......It's not as if your'e overfilling the crankcase. 2. The transmission prep explanation sounds like a very poor explanation on the part of the dealer. If you drive the car to warm up and then put it on the lift the temperature of the trans fluid will only go down until it reaches steady state. You can't make the trans fluid hotter (I said tranny fluid) by letting the car idle. It seems to me that GM will come out with a final statement of "add 60cc of fluid and drive slowly through all gears cycling from first; stop then reverse" Just like the rearend noise fix. Just a thought. More "dealer magic"
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