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Old 01-16-2015, 12:36 PM   #1
javi05
 
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2014 ss 1le lifter failure!!!

so i went and got my oil changed from the dealer full syn the day before. when i got it back it drove fine. parked it at work and came back out afterwork and started it.. it was about 44f outside, and i noticed a small lifter noise. i thought oh the car is cold, it will quit as it warms up. now i been noticing that tick lately and also when i start the car in the morning it sounds like not enough oil is up top (valvetrain)for the first few second upon cold start ups. not giving it no mind i just kept driving even getting on it pretty good later on that night like i do with my 1le going threw the gears etc.. made it home.. turned it off.. in the morning its about 35 degrees out and i start her up and right away lights come on, check engine light, stabli, traction lights etc. and the car has a miss fire.. i let it warm up on its own and drove away str8 towards the dealer which is about 5 miles from me.. after it got to operating temps the check light came off and the car evened out no miss fire just a light tapping sound from up top like a lifter went bad.. check engine light never came back on.. they scanned the codes and came back with missfire on cylinder # ? and emissions code.. my service manger says i have bad news you need new cam and lifters. im like how did that happen? they said they will see when they tear it down.. and i said is there anything i could have done to cause this he said not really, and it will be covered under warranty.. car is bone stock.. so do you think the harsh cold start ups caused this? because imo if i did harm the car by driving it hard that night wouldnt the check engine light come on right away? missfires? and all? need some input on this... thanks.
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Old 01-16-2015, 01:21 PM   #2
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Just curious, how many miles on the car? I have had numerous cam/lifter failures over the past 30 years, a couple my fault, most of them I have no idea, parts fail. Make sure they crack open the filter and check for metal....... Next it could be the rod/main bearings, so pay close attention......just my .02 and no it's not the "cold" as those are normal operating temps but I would be watching my tires if you have the F1 G2's on...
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Old 01-16-2015, 02:32 PM   #3
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I've seen it quite frequently, seen it on truck/suv 4.8, 5.3 6.0 and 6.2ls, from 2005 up to 2012..seems like a manufacturing issue with the roller tip on these lifters, has been happening for quite some time. takes out the cam also. do a search and see how many have had this issue.
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Old 01-16-2015, 02:43 PM   #4
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#PIP4138N: SES Light, Misfire, DTC P0300, And/or A Chirp, Squeak, Squeal, Or Tick Noise - Potential Valvetrain Concern - (Aug 5, 2013)
Subject: SES Light, Misfire, DTC P0300, And/or A Chirp, Squeak, Squeal, Or Tick Noise - Potential Valvetrain Concern
Models: 2004-2007 Buick Rainier 2008-2009 Buick LaCrosse, Allure (Canada Only) 2006-2013 Cadillac CTS-V 2002-2013 Cadillac Escalade 2010-2013 Chevrolet Camaro 2011-2013 Chevrolet Caprice PPV 2002-2013 Chevrolet Avalanche 1999-2013 Chevrolet Express, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe 2009-2013 Chevrolet Colorado 2003-2009 Chevrolet Trailblazer 2006-2009 Chevrolet Impala SS 2006-2007 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS 2003-2006 Chevrolet SSR 2005-2013 Chevrolet Corvette 2009-2013 GMC Canyon 2003-2009 GMC Envoy 1999-2013 GMC Savana, Sierra, Yukon 2003-2010 Hummer H2 2008-2010 Hummer H3 2008-2010 Pontiac G8 2005-2006 Pontiac GTO 2005-2008 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP 2005-2009 Saab 97x with a V8 engine This PI was superseded to add the Caprice PPV. Please discard PIP4138M.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern Some customers may complain of a SES light, engine misfire, and/or engine noise. If the SES light is on, the technician will find a P0300-P0308 DTC with misfires counting on a single cylinder that may or may not be felt. This may occur consistently, or it may occur intermittently. If a noise is verified, it will not be eliminated by canceling fuel injectors and the noise will occur at camshaft speed (half of crankshaft speed). The noise may be described as a chirp, squeak, squeal, or tick noise and may increase off of idle.
In either case, the cause of this concern may not be isolated after following SI diagnosis. This PI is written for technicians who experience this concern and follow SI diagnosis without isolating the cause of this concern.
Recommendation/Instructions If SI diagnosis does not isolate the cause of this concern, it may be the result of any of the following:
  1. Worn camshaft lobe and/or lifter roller
  2. A sticking valve
  3. Valve leakage
  4. A broken valve spring
  5. A collapsed AFM (Active Fuel Management) lifter
If SI diagnosis does not isolate the cause of this concern, review the information below, determine which description best matches the vehicle you are working on, and perform the suggestions as necessary, starting with the easiest ones first:
  1. Worn Cam Lobe and/or Lifter Roller: Generally, a worn cam lobe on this engine family will create a consistent chirp, squeak, squeal, or tick noise at camshaft speed and/or a misfire with a P0300-P0308 DTC. The misfire may or may not be felt and the misfire could occur at all RPM or just a specific RPM, such as idle only or only at high RPM. If a noise is present, it will not be eliminated by cancelling fuel injectors and generally, the static compression and cylinder leakage will be similar on all cylinders.
    The following suggestions may help determine if a worn cam lobe and/or lifter is causing this concern:
    • Use a wooden hammer handle to apply pressure to the following locations of the rocker arms during the noise to determine which one is making noise: valve side, push rod side, and side of the rocker. If the noise is changed by applying pressure to the valve side of the rocker, this is most likely the result of a lifter and/or cam lobe concern on that cylinder. Sometimes this works, sometimes it does not - it seems to depend on the amount of cam lobe wear.
    • Disconnect the coils and injectors on one bank of the engine, run the engine with the related valve cover removed, and back off the related rocker arm a couple of turns and listen for a change in the noise. If necessary, both rockers and push rods can also be removed one cylinder at a time with the related coil and injectors disconnected. If the noise is eliminated and there is no problem found with the valve spring, push rod, or rocker arm, this is most likely the result of a worn lifter roller and/or cam lobe.
    • Measure the cam lobe lift at the push rod side of the rocker arm. The lift in this location will differ from the SI specification but it should be similar as compared with other rockers on the same bank. The misfiring/ticking cylinder should obviously have less lift than the comparison cylinders if this is the result of a worn lifter roller and/or cam lobe. Another possibility of no/low lift on cylinders 1, 4, 6, or 7 on an AFM engine would be a collapsed AFM lifter. If a collapsed AFM lifter is found, refer to the latest version of PIP4568 for additional information.
    • On engines with AFM (active fuel management), you can command AFM on with the scan tool, which will unlatch the lifters on cylinders 1, 4, 6, and 7 and stop opening the related valves. If the noise is eliminated, there is a good chance that the noise is coming from the valvetrain of cylinders 1, 4, 6, or 7. If there is no problem found with the push rods, rockers, or valve springs, the noise is most likely coming from a worn lifter roller and/or cam lobe on cylinders 1, 4, 6, or 7.
    • If the tests above do not isolate the cause of this concern, it may be necessary to visually inspect the lifter rollers and cam lobes for obvious damage, such as flat spots, pits, grooves, scoring, gouging, flaking, rusting, etc...It is very easy to overlook a damaged cam lobe when inspecting them through the lifter bores and just because the lifter rollers are not worn, does not mean that the related cam lobes are okay. Both pieces need to be carefully inspected. It may help to use a bore scope or pen light when inspecting the cam lobes through the lifter bores. In some cases, the worn cam lobe may not be discovered until the camshaft is physically removed from the engine and inspected for the issues mentioned above. Notice: Follow SI procedures to replace the camshaft and all lifters if a worn camshaft lobe or lifter roller is found. Also replace the plastic lifter guide for the lifter that had the damaged cam lobe and/or lifter roller (For 2010 Model Year, replace all of the plastic lifter guides). On AFM engines, also replace the VLOM (Valve Lifter Oil Manifold) filter screen that is under the oil pressure sensor.
  2. 2. Sticking Valve: Generally, a sticking valve on this engine family will cause an engine misfire that may or may not be felt and it may occur consistently or intermittently. It is unlikely that any engine noise will be present. It may be temperature sensitive and it may be more apparent during certain operating conditions, such as driving up a grade, cresting a hill, or during hard acceleration. A good indicator of a sticking valve is if engine misfires continue to count on an aggressive deceleration with engine braking. If the misfire occurs consistently, a static compression test, running compression test or cylinder leakage test may isolate the sticking valve. However, it is unlikely that any of these tests will isolate the sticking valve if the misfire only occurs while driving at specific conditions.
    The following suggestions may help determine if a sticking valve is causing this concern:
    Follow SI procedures to remove the valve springs and seals from the valves of the misfiring cylinder. Before removing the air pressure from the cylinder, tightly wrap a rubber band or tie strap around the tip of each valve stem to prevent the valves from dropping into the cylinder. Release the air pressure from the cylinder and work the valve up and down in the guide while turning the valve 360 degrees.
    If any binding is felt, a stem to guide clearance concern exists and should be repaired by following SI procedures.
    Notice: Refer to the latest version of PIP4753 for decarboning instructions.

  3. Valve Leakage: Generally, valve leakage on this engine family will cause a consistent engine misfire that may or may not be felt and is more apparent at idle or low RPM. Normally, no engine noise will be present and in most cases, a static compression test or running compression test will not reveal anything abnormal unless the leakage is very high.
    Notice: If a valve sealing concern is found, it should be repaired by following SI repair procedures.

  4. Broken Valve Spring: Generally, a broken valve spring on this engine family will cause a tick noise and/or an engine misfire. In either case, the concern may occur consistently or intermittently. If it is causing an engine misfire, it may or may not be felt and it may only occur at specific operating conditions, such as high RPM driving, etc...
    Notice: If a broken valve spring is found, replace the broken valve spring as necessary.

  5. Collapsed AFM Lifter (Engines with AFM Only): Some customers may comment on an SES light, engine misfire, and/or tick noise. This may be the result of an AFM lifter that unlocks as soon as the engine is started or one that is mechanically collapsed/stuck.
    Notice: If either of these AFM lifter concerns is suspected, please refer to the latest version of PIP4568 for additional information.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, please use the appropriate warranty labor operation based on the actual cause and repair.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
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Old 01-16-2015, 03:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
also replace the VLOM (Valve Lifter Oil Manifold) filter screen that is under the oil pressure sensor.
Interesting, GM is relying on a "filter screen" to save the engine from metal vs bearings. Not exactly the approach I would be taking. I would be examining the oil filter and also demanding an oil analysis if my cam was damaged. A rod sticking out of the block should not be how you find out that metal was introduced to the system.
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Old 01-16-2015, 03:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backeddy View Post
A rod sticking out of the block should not be how you find out that metal was introduced to the system.
No, but at least then you'll know for sure that it has. Determinism is a pretty thing.
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Old 01-16-2015, 03:31 PM   #7
backeddy
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^^^^ YEP! ^^^^
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Old 01-16-2015, 04:10 PM   #8
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Sorry to hear about your ride. Any one know makes a good aftermarket performance lifter for LS3??
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Old 01-16-2015, 04:14 PM   #9
javi05
 
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20k on the dot.. i thought the ls7 lifters were an upgrade? i got rid on my g2's and went with the pilot super sports.. love those tires... i do drive the car hard at times.. thats why i bought it.. but not abuse, just happy hauling ass driving..
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:16 PM   #10
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What oil did they use (brand/rating)? Even driving your car hard (when warmed up) should not do this. I'd be very upset about it, especially if it happened after a recent oil change. I don't think 35 degrees is very extreme, but I'd wait until the engine warms up to operating temps before "getting on it" hard. Hope you find out what happened and that it's only a broken valve spring or something simple and did not cause other damage.
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:33 PM   #11
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Ditto on knowing what oil it was...
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Old 01-16-2015, 11:05 PM   #12
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The invoice says Mobil 1 full syn. But right after the change I noticed a tick sound. But I ignored it because I know LS engines have that slight tick. But not like this. And the speed of the tick told me exactly it was a lifter.


And for I always allow my car to operating temps before getting on it. That morning I just cold started it and the lights went off !! Misfire etc. I felt the car was starving for oil some mornings I could the lifters tap for a few seconds more and more as the mileage went on. But never a lack of performance ...
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Old 01-17-2015, 12:09 AM   #13
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Ok my GUESS is that the dealer started it and ran it and when the oil pressure never came up, they realized "oh sh!t we forgot to put the oil in...." Shut if off, filled oil, pressure came up and sent you on your way.
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Old 01-17-2015, 12:23 AM   #14
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Damn ^^^ that's a messed up way of putting it lol. But hey it can happen
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