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Old 04-28-2017, 03:37 PM   #1
jreagle56
 
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E2 Dual Exit Port - New Install Design Idea

Looking at what locations we have to work with under the hood for mounting/accessibility of an Elite E2 Oil Separator, keeping hose lengths as short as possible and the can lower than the source; I wonder if Elite could engineer a new clean install for the dual exit port separator they offer. Keeping costs down and avoiding a 'frankenstein' look with shiny worm gear hose clamps and multiple add on adapters and such. For example, the black split rings and rubber hose they are using at least matches what is already under the hood and does not draw attention to it or look out of place.
Black or dark gray materials for the most part, aluminum or composites capable of withstanding the heat of the engine compartment for many years without degrading, disintegrating or cracking.

It goes something like this:
1. User/owner deletes sound tube, the sound generator and all of the tubing.

2. Cap for the fire wall - possibly by using the existing plastic piece with a screw type nylon or plastic plug installed after removing the tubing or a new cap for the hole in the firewall. What ever is less expensive.

3. Use the bracket from the sound generator to attach the E2 oil separator head. A mating bracket would be needed that allows the reservoir to be unscrewed without unbolting the head mount.

4. an adapter for the 2nd E2 exit port that uses the sound tube port in the factory intake tube so no new holes need to be punched through the factory intake tube.

5. the E2 inlet and other exit port hook up to the PVC side as usual.

6. minimal cost added to the product to keep affordability the same.

This system is totally reversible back to the factory setup if needed, providing the owner keeps all of the parts he/she removed.

What do you think?
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Old 04-28-2017, 03:44 PM   #2
JeromeS13

 
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This is exactly what I've done. I'll snap a few pictures when I get home.
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:26 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
This is exactly what I've done. I'll snap a few pictures when I get home.
Cool! looking forward to seeing your pics.....
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:40 PM   #4
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Pretty much exactly how you described. For the intake "adapter", I ordered some aluminum stock from Amazon (LINK), cut it down to size, and drilled/tapped it for the NPT to barbed adapter. I used the supplied bracket from Elite Engineering and secured it to the passenger side post that originally secured the sound tube bracket. On the firewall, I just used a 1" plastic plug and put some duct tape over it.
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Old 04-28-2017, 06:55 PM   #5
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Thank you for the look under the hood JeromeS13. Glad you took the time to share.

My E2 can and bracket is different than yours. Install is similar to what i had in mind; a little different though......
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Old 04-28-2017, 07:45 PM   #6
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Benefits of the dual exit CC? If I'm going to do this I want to capture all the unicorns in favor of over engineering.
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:24 AM   #7
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Benefits of the dual exit CC? If I'm going to do this I want to capture all the unicorns in favor of over engineering.
Originally, I was going to install a Procharger. With two ports, you can run one to the OEM location (under the intake manifold) and another from the intake tube/filter. Under boost, the check valve would prevent any flow from the OEM location source, while maintaining a vacuum from the intake tube/filter source. That way, it's always receiving a vacuum and even more vacuum while not in boost.
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:51 AM   #8
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Benefits of the dual exit CC? If I'm going to do this I want to capture all the unicorns in favor of over engineering.
Good question.
Frankly, i am having a hard time understanding the difference between the 2 exit port and 1 exit port catch can with more research that goes into it. since they both connect to the intake tube, only at slightly different points in the intake stream. It seems to me that the throttle valve opening and closing determines the amount of vacuum on either side of it.... more throttle = more vacuum generated by the intake and less throttle = less vacuum generated by the intake. so (thinking as i am writing this) what is the actual difference and why the need for 2 exit ports vs one if connected to the same 'metered suction' source. either way, when the crankcase pressure builds up, the PCV valve burps into the catch can and the gasses (less oil) are sucked out of the can into the intake. That is my understanding on how it works...

I currently have a single exit port E2 and was thinking of getting a dual exit port E2 because Elite describes it as the best of the best for removing oil mist and vapor on the way to the intake. Now i am thinking the single port will work for me. I guess it helps thinking 'on paper' and talking to others.

My single exit port E2 catches 2 or 3 tablespoons of toxic oil every 1000 miles and when its cold, a lot of moisture on top of that. IS there more to be caught? not sure.

I am thinking we will need a vacuum engineer to tell us if (1) 3/8" vacuum hose supplies the same vacuum as (2) 3/8" hoses where both are about 2 feet long and connected to the same source. Is there a loss over the 2' long 3/8" tubing at the negative pressures generated in the intake where a 2nd hose helps maintain the max negative pressure? I dont think there would be much difference since we are talking about negative pressure and not worrying about flow volume.

Had a "Limitless' moment, so there it is FWIW. Just my opinion....... not much data to back it up like in a lab test.
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:47 PM   #9
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This is a genius idea also for the single exit unit. Appears that their 6.2L so called bracket could work for this. May require drilling new holes, but may work.

If removing the sound tube this is the optimum location for a CC.

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/o...brackets-only/
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Old 04-30-2017, 12:41 AM   #10
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Been thinking about this some more and while my experience with Elite Engineering is that they aren't the brightest bulb in the tree when it comes to customer service and marketing, they should market a sound tube delete option for our cars. A silicon intake tube and a plug. Sell that for $100 and make $ hand over fist.

Right now we have to convince ourselves to pay $500 for the courtesy of deleting our sound tube and changing the shape of our our air filter.
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Old 04-30-2017, 12:45 AM   #11
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And Elite could open the most optimum place in our engine bay to place a CC. Short lines, physically lower, space to open it for service. Another win win.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:24 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAGAUSA View Post
Been thinking about this some more and while my experience with Elite Engineering is that they aren't the brightest bulb in the tree when it comes to customer service and marketing, they should market a sound tube delete option for our cars. A silicon intake tube and a plug. Sell that for $100 and make $ hand over fist.

Right now we have to convince ourselves to pay $500 for the courtesy of deleting our sound tube and changing the shape of our our air filter.

And Elite could open the most optimum place in our engine bay to place a CC. Short lines, physically lower, space to open it for service. Another win win.
Wonder if they are listening?

I am also seeing what looks like an 8mm drilled and tapped hole on the engine in that area that may be able to be used with their LT1 mount or E2 mount or better yet, a newly designed E2 mount bracket. Not sure if the E2 will fit there though since there are some wires and connectors close by. the custom bracket design could take that into account.
Was also thinking about the rubber hose install with the E2 in the sound generator location area. There, the hose requires a bend +- 120 degree- 180 degree change in direction to connect to the PCV ports on the engine. Rubber collapses over time if bent too tightly, so the possibility of a restriction exists. Probably need to make a rounder more sweeping direction change, using more hose, so the rubber does not collapse over time with several heat and cool cycles.

Either way, I am thinking a carefully engineered bracket for the sound tube generator location needs to be designed to place the E2 in the optimum location in that area and be able to easily unscrew the reservoir for emptying without interfering with any of the factory wiring etc there already.

Re: the sound tube delete. I found a 'sharkbite 1" brass plug', used for water lines, on the home depot web site. Looked like it would be a good fit for the hole left in the intake tube after deleting the sound generator fitting. Clean look too. Hoping to reuse the existing crimp hose clamp. Ordered one to try out. Need to see it; couldn't get a feel for its dimensions on paper.

Still working on a firewall solution. Might just use the factory sound tube fitting there and cap it.

SO anyway, a side bar to the sound tube and generator..... yesterday i removed the sound tube, drove around for awhile, put the sound tube back into service and drove the same route. The sound tube definitely adds another pleasing dimension to the sound of the engine; especially the more you push the throttle. Definitely like; maybe, probably, could live without it.

FWIW $100 for a sound tube delete kit is more than i would spend. Maybe $25 for the kit and $10 for a custom bracket. Just my thoughts....
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:15 PM   #13
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Looking at the bracket in the pics above, it appears to be the one that comes with the E2-X "kit". Looks like there's an option to move the can further to the radiator than in these pics and then clamp the unit at a lower place in the can body, to allow for better use of the drain feature of the E2-X. I may just pull the trigger and see what happens.

This will be a $800 catch can because I'll then have to pull the trigger on the intake and sound tube delete.
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