Constant power dash fuse box

[camguynj]

I need to tap into a constant power fuse in the dashboard/driver side fuse box. I’m already using fuse 23/trunk button for constant power. I’m thinking of using fuse 14 /Onstar as I’m assuming that’s gotta be constant power. Thoughts?

[Ashen 6.2]

I could be wrong (wouldn't be the first time nor the last) but I'm pretty sure everything in the interior driver side fuse box is constant power. I've always had to go to the fuse box under the hood to find switched circuits.

[camguynj]

F18 is switched power. F17 maybe as well?

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by camguynj

I need to tap into a constant power fuse in the dashboard/driver side fuse box. I’m already using fuse 23/trunk button for constant power. I’m thinking of using fuse 14 /Onstar as I’m assuming that’s gotta be constant power. Thoughts?

Fuse 2 feeds the data link connector terminal 16. It's hot at all times and protected by a 7.5 amp fuse. A whole lot easier to tap into it at the dlc than at the fuse block. It's the same terminal that powers your scan tool.

[Ashen 6.2]

Originally Posted by camguynj

F18 is switched power. F17 maybe as well?

Those might be. I went to check mine but forgot the battery is unhooked at the moment. I'm curious about those two now as well.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

Fuse 2 feeds the data link connector terminal 16. It's hot at all times and protected by a 7.5 amp fuse. A whole lot easier to tap into it at the dlc than at the fuse block. It's the same terminal that powers your scan tool.

Why would it be ezer to tap into it at the DIC?

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Why would it be ezer to tap into it at the DIC?

DLC...the connector you plug your scan tool into! It's right under the dash. You can splice into that wire a whole lot easier than accessing the back of the fuse block. Nice thing about that wire is that it is a dedicated circuit only intended to power your scan tool. So it will be able to support just about anything your trying to connect and if you need to use a scan tool just turn that device off and you'll be fine.

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by camguynj

F18 is switched power. F17 maybe as well?

F17 & 18 go through the rap (retained accessory power) relay....they're only powered with key on or for the 8 or 10 min you have the key off without opening the doors.

[Ashen 6.2]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

DLC...the connector you plug your scan tool into! It's right under the dash. You can splice into that wire a whole lot easier than accessing the back of the fuse block. Nice thing about that wire is that it is a dedicated circuit only intended to power your scan tool. So it will be able to support just about anything your trying to connect and if you need to use a scan tool just turn that device off and you'll be fine.

Thats great info!

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by Ashen 6.2

Thats great info!

Glad I can help you guys. It's hard enough to fix these cars even with the right information. Don't know how you guys do it, but if I can save some head scratching I will. I fix these cars day in and day out for a living....all of my experience is with mostly stock vehicles, and most under warranty. I joined this group to learn more about modifying these cars....what works/ what doesn't. So I'm sure the more that I can give will come back to me with the more you guys know that I don't!

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

Fuse 2 feeds the data link connector terminal 16. It's hot at all times and protected by a 7.5 amp fuse. A whole lot easier to tap into it at the dlc than at the fuse block. It's the same terminal that powers your scan tool.

Ah, mistook DLC for DIC. Now that makes sense although I wouldn't touch the DLC/OBD2 port wiring. Just too much going on thru there. It's finicky enough with devices that are made to be plugged into it let alone tapping/splicing into one of its wires. Appreciate the feedback but I'll go with an add-a-fuse extension into fuse2. Thanks again.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

Glad I can help you guys. It's hard enough to fix these cars even with the right information. Don't know how you guys do it, but if I can save some head scratching I will. I fix these cars day in and day out for a living....all of my experience is with mostly stock vehicles, and most under warranty. I joined this group to learn more about modifying these cars....what works/ what doesn't. So I'm sure the more that I can give will come back to me with the more you guys know that I don't!

And I, we, really appreciate all your knowledge!! As I have said before, it is a huge blessing to have a member on here that actually works on these cars, owns one AND helps us figure out what the heck is going on!! Thank you my brother!!!

[Ashen 6.2]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

And I, we, really appreciate all your knowledge!! As I have said before, it is a huge blessing to have a member on here that actually works on these cars, owns one AND helps us figure out what the heck is going on!! Thank you my brother!!!

^^^I agree with 1JEWLDSSRS^^^. Much appreciated!

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Ah, mistook DLC for DIC. Now that makes sense although I wouldn't touch the DLC/OBD2 port wiring. Just too much going on thru there. It's finicky enough with devices that are made to be plugged into it let alone tapping/splicing into one of its wires. Appreciate the feedback but I'll go with an add-a-fuse extension into fuse2. Thanks again.

Terminal 16 of the diagnostic connector runs straight to fuse 2 in the fuse block. That circuits only purpose is to power up your scan tool. There will be no difference if you connect at the fuse block or closer to the diag connector. And like I said it's protected by a 7.5 amp fuse so regardless of where you tap into it, you shouldn't need to add a fuse.