[Summit20171SS]

Originally Posted by Evergreen6

This is the first time I've had "Active Rev Match" in any vehicle.

I believe it actually lessens the wear on the transmission *when downshifting is necessary, correct? Basically, it's helping you match road speed to engine speed more accurately with your gear selection. At least that's the way it works in an unsynchronized truck transmission. When road and engine speed match, the lever just slides into gear for a perfect shift, no clutch needed. It's a little harder to do in these smaller transmissions, but can be done just the same.

Good to know, in that case I'll probably just leave it in active rev match all the time then

[olrocker]

Originally Posted by Evergreen6

This is the first time I've had "Active Rev Match" in any vehicle.

I believe it actually lessens the wear on the transmission *when downshifting is necessary, correct? Basically, it's helping you match road speed to engine speed more accurately with your gear selection. At least that's the way it works in an unsynchronized truck transmission. When road and engine speed match, the lever just slides into gear for a perfect shift, no clutch needed. It's a little harder to do in these smaller transmissions, but can be done just the same.

Please don’t shift either up or down without the clutch. This is not a truck. We don’t “float” shift to save the clutch.

Shift properly with the clutch and both the clutch and trans should last well over 200k miles. Yes even if you track it. Anything less and you’re doing something wrong.

[olrocker]

Not sure if it’s on the 2016-18 Camaros because there was quite an extensive upgrade in software for 2019, but at least on 2019-up there is actually a clutch-ride warning on the DIC. It can sense if you’re riding the clutch and a warning that states “Clutch Warning: Clutch not fully released. Release clutch pedal” and it will also warn you if the clutch gets too hot: “Warning: Clutch temperature high. Reduce shifting to allow clutch to cool”

[Texas1ss]

I have close to 109k on my 2016 SS M6, and it's still going strong. No slipping, and still works great.

But I've been driving manuals for years, and I took good care of it. I can tell it's getting a little spongy, and it's just a matter of time before I have to fix it, but now all is well.

I checked with GM, and they wanted over 5k to change the pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and clutch disk. DAMN!

But Aamco will do it for 2k with the stock AC Delco parts. Wish I knew a place that would rent me a lift, and I'd do it myself. The labor is what bumps that up. But 2k is not bad.

Just have to decide if I'm going to put in the stock clutch or beef it up because I'm thinking about modifying my car to push up around 700 HP after my extended warranty is done. Of course, that cost would be quite a bit more.

[Texas1ss]

Originally Posted by Plasar

You are not proposing shifting your Camaro without clutching, are you???

There IS a «*No Lift Shift*» feature, there IS NOT a «*No Clutch Shift*» feature.

I don't shift into the next gear without depressing the clutch, but like at least 90 percent of the time I don't depress the clutch when getting out of gear to go the next one, and then I depress the clutch to engage the next gear. At slow speeds is the only time sometimes it doesn't want to get out of gear without hitting the clutch.

Maybe it's not recommended, but I've done it for years and had no issues with any manual transmission I've ever owned.

[olrocker]

Originally Posted by Texas1ss

I don't shift into the next gear without depressing the clutch, but like at least 90 percent of the time I don't depress the clutch when getting out of gear to go the next one, and then I depress the clutch to engage the next gear. At slow speeds is the only time sometimes it doesn't want to get out of gear without hitting the clutch.

Maybe it's not recommended, but I've done it for years and had no issues with any manual transmission I've ever owned.

I guess if you’re really good at doing it at the EXACT time the engine RPM and transmission RPM are synchronized you should be ok. But just pay attention to how tight your gear lever is over time. If it starts to get sloppy you’re losing your synchros.

[pitrott1]

Originally Posted by Summit20171SS

Awesome info! Thank you so much!

Learned something new, was wondering why my hill descent never stop my back slide. I'll try the pump brakes. Thanks!

[Texas1ss]

Originally Posted by olrocker

I guess if you’re really good at doing it at the EXACT time the engine RPM and transmission RPM are synchronized you should be ok. But just pay attention to how tight your gear lever is over time. If it starts to get sloppy you’re losing your synchros.

I read my post again, and it's confusing as heck the way I worded it, Olrocker. And I agree with your post as well for sure if you took it the way I'm reading it now.

What I meant to get across, and failed, was say I'm in fourth gear coming up to a stoplight. A ton of times I won't even depress the clutch to put it in neutral. I'll just push up on the shifter without hitting the clutch at all. Nine times out of ten it's as smooth as using the clutch.

Even casually cruising around without hitting high RPMs, except from 1st to 2nd, if I want to get into say 3rd to 4th and beyond I won't depress the clutch, and I'll just bump the shifter into neutral, then engage the clutch and shift to the next gear. I don't have to worry about matching revs because I'm not applying throttle and am synched.

Rarely coming to a stop the shifter won't cooperate, but I never force it. I just clutch in and throw it in neutral if that happens.

Hopefully that makes more sense. Got in the habit out of laziness partially, and easy to do, and less wear and tear on the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. Can save hundreds of clutch presses in a 30 minute cruise. I have 109k on my 2016 1SS daily driver, and I'm hoping the clutch can last till at least 144k when I'll garage it and then start modding it after my extended warranty drops.

[Texas1ss]

Originally Posted by Summit20171SS

Good to know, in that case I'll probably just leave it in active rev match all the time then

I'm in the same boat. I hear you. I've heel-and-toed a lof of years, but only because I had to and love manual transmissions and it was necessary to not cause an imbalance in the drivetrain that could lead to issues down the line.

Rev match is one of the first things I engage when I turn my car on. I love it. As good as I'd like to think I was on the many vehicles I've had in the past, the system does one hell of a job.

If there was an option in the infotainment system to have it engaged 100 percent of the time, like all my other settings with the NPP and Mag Ride, I'd set it to never turn off. Great damn feature, including the hill hold. Way easier than my old '69 3-speed Mustang, which was my first car I learned on. Now. that was hard.

[olrocker]

Originally Posted by Texas1ss

I read my post again, and it's confusing as heck the way I worded it, Olrocker. And I agree with your post as well for sure.

What I meant to get across, and failed, was say I'm in fourth gear coming up to a stoplight. A ton of times I won't even clutch in to put it in neutral. I'll just push up on the shifter without clutching at all. Nine times out of ten it's as smooth as using the clutch.

Even casually cruising around without hitting high RPMs, except from 1st to 2nd, if I want to get into say 3rd to 4th and beyond I won't depress the clutch, and I'll just bump the shifter into neutral, then engage the clutch hit the next gear. I don't have to worry about matching revs because I'm not applying throttle and am synched.

Rarely coming to a stop the shifter won't cooperate, but I never force it. I just clutch in and throw it in neutral if that happens.

Hopefully that makes more sense. Got in the habit out of laziness partially, and easy to do, and less wear and tear on the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. Can save hundreds of clutch presses in a 30 minute cruise. I have 108k on my 2016 1SS daily driver, and I'm hoping the clutch can last till at least 144k when I'll garage it and then start modding it after my extended warranty drops.

You should be fine using the clutch all the time if you are good at driving stick. A factory clutch should last over 200k even if you drive it hard - clutch wear happens when you ride it or slip it too long. In 25 years and over 500,000 miles of driving between 4 manual transmissioned cars, I’ve only replaced one clutch at 170k and that was because I popped the tension springs. There was still 30k+ miles of meat left on the disc.

Besides, a clutch is cheaper than a transmission rebuild anyway.

[Texas1ss]

Originally Posted by olrocker

You should be fine using the clutch all the time if you are good at driving stick. A factory clutch should last over 200k even if you drive it hard - clutch wear happens when you ride it or slip it too long. In 25 years and over 500,000 miles of driving between 4 manual transmissioned cars, I’ve only replaced one clutch at 170k and that was because I popped the tension springs. There was still 30k+ miles of meat left on the disc.

Besides, a clutch is cheaper than a transmission rebuild anyway.

I hear you, olrocker. This is the first car I've kept so long with a manual, or even automatics for my family vehicles I've had in the past for that matter. I usually get bored and move on to the next one. This is the first car I've had for now going on 8 years.

But with the Camaro going away, manuals going the way of the dinosaurs, and EVs pushing so hard, I'm holding on to it. And I pushed it pretty hard when I got it, but never anything over the top. I only smelled that wonderful clutch burn smell on the rare occasion.

Hopefully I'll have the same results as you did. So far so good. Fingers crossed.

[speedyink1]

I've ever once worn out a clutch in the couple decades I've been driving manual. You can get well over 100,000 Miles out a clutch in a lot of vehicles. Just a couple easy things needed to maximize the life, as already mentioned.
1: From a stop finding the perfect balance of RPM to slip factor as to not lug the engine but also keeping RPMs as low as reasonably possible for a given amount of acceleration
2: rev match on down shift
3: learn to avoid "slip shifts": your clutch should not be pulling your engine RPMs down
It's not super hard to master these things, just some practice and anyone can do it.

As for the Active Rev Match, it's extremely good at getting the RPM at the perfect spot for a downshift every, single, time. Definitely handy for.. more spirited situations and not even having to think of messing up slightly.
However, for everday basic driving I find it a bit aggressive. I mean, I know it's a V8 and fuel economy just isn't amazing, but lately I turn it off and do more "tailored" rev matching to help that slightly. As soon as I need that snappy downshift though, I totally just let the car do it. It's just so good at it, screw it! (Or when I want to get some fun noise to show off the engine and NPP exhaust a bit )