Half shaft issue

[14SlomaroSS]

I just broke my half shaft on my camaro , any way to prevent it from happening it again ? Would any rear suspension parts help? Looks like only way is to upgrade to HD half shafts.

[christianchevell]

Well you could avoid wheel hop and damaging them with some Trailing arms and toe links, and if your going to be rough on the rear a nice LPW cover would help hold the thing together. Actually the SS shafts are not that expensive, and I am on my stock set and way above stock h.p. I just know I do not want to run super sticky tires and do not do real hard launches, hell I have traction trouble....lol From more low end torque ...... I use BMR products and their bushings. Someday If I go drag racing I am going to have to have some 1000 h.p. axles. Anyway wheel hop is usually what deals the damage to a half shaft , and having sticky tires does not help, if you were not doing anything to abuse the rear ?

[Moto-Mojo]

My company makes OE half shafts. I'm curious what kind of HP you're putting down???

[14SlomaroSS]

Im putting down 440 at the wheels. I just dont want them to break again. Seems like it only happens with a 6 speed.

[14SlomaroSS]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

Well you could avoid wheel hop and damaging them with some Trailing arms and toe links, and if your going to be rough on the rear a nice LPW cover would help hold the thing together. Actually the SS shafts are not that expensive, and I am on my stock set and way above stock h.p. I just know I do not want to run super sticky tires and do not do real hard launches, hell I have traction trouble....lol From more low end torque ...... I use BMR products and their bushings. Someday If I go drag racing I am going to have to have some 1000 h.p. axles. Anyway wheel hop is usually what deals the damage to a half shaft , and having sticky tires does not help, if you were not doing anything to abuse the rear ?

Im gonna buy some bmr suspension what parts should i get exactly? Theres lots of different options.. Its my daily driver so id like it to ride pretty nice

[Moto-Mojo]

The half shafts utilize the "Rzeppa" 6-ball CV design. Sounds like this is still an issue. (after reading your 2014 and some 2010 model posts here) There must be an undersize issue. It's a tried and true design insofar as constant velocity is concerned. It was a disaster in rear wheel, trans to diff applications in old Bronco II's and even some newer Jeeps. When a driveline shop wants to upgrade a Jeep half-shaft-style RWD driveline, we go with old fashioned yokes and beefy u-joints. Typically they work better as axle shafts though.

Conversely, they have lived very well in front axle ap's like Tahoe and Yukon's for years. That's why they may be somewhat under nourished in a SS Camaro. Probably a weight concern? Just an observation.

[SS PANTHER]

As stated before, trailing arms, toe links and some cradle bushings. I believe you could upgrade to the 1LE half shafts which are stronger.

[14SlomaroSS]

Originally Posted by SS PANTHER

As stated before, trailing arms, toe links and some cradle bushings. I believe you could upgrade to the 1LE half shafts which are stronger.

What bushing type? And would you reccomend doing lower control arms too?

[15cammedSS]

Dang already?? Lol

[SS PANTHER]

Originally Posted by 14SlomaroSS

What bushing type? And would you reccomend doing lower control arms too?

I run poly cradle bushings to minimize NVH, although many swear by solid bushings. And yes to lc arm bushings. Think about what else you can afford in the suspension department such as, radius rod bushings, sways, springs or coil overs, etc. This is the foundation for good handling and traction. All the HP won't do you much good without the suspension done. Contact JDP motor sports and Jordan can set you up. Good luck.

[CamaroCracka]

Just curious what part of the shaft broke?

The outers on the 1LE shafts are bigger if that is where the failure occurred.

[christianchevell]

Talk with Phastek, BMR, etc etc Poly is the norm to rid the car of the squishy rubber.

Trailing arms and toes for wheel hop, upper delrin bushing for upper control/(A arm) for turning deflection. Sway bar to control sway, adjustable .... Cradle bushings require lowering the whole rear suspension as the whole rear subframe is the "cradle", but there are carrier bushings that one is part of the rear differential housing cover....that are nice to do for the carrier especially with the LPW cover which is 2 times as thick as stock to help the soft aluminum rear end not bend/twist etc and maybe break gears easier or half shafts. I would not go too hog wild as your doing just the trailing arms and toes would most likely change things enough you will feel it.......... But hey you can brake a axle stock if you apply enough force to it with sticky tires and abuse it by launching in the stratosphere....

http://www.lpwracing.com/Ultra_IRS/Ultra_IRS.html

The Cradle is the frame and is not that prone to be a problem area you would want to worry about right now as its the least cost effective to do requiring the labor to drop the entire rear or loosen it enough to get the inserts into the existing or new solid poly bushings onto the frame. The Rear diff itself though I would bush with a good set of the bushings for it to keep it solid and together, but First the trailing arms and toes.... can be done at a competent tire store that does alignments along with most of the suspension can be done there. Good Luck, and always read up and research/study parts your investing in. ZL1 axles are about $700 a set, 1000 HP axles $1200 ish, 1200 HP $1400 that's about the range for those......

[14SlomaroSS]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

Talk with Phastek, BMR, etc etc Poly is the norm to rid the car of the squishy rubber.

Trailing arms and toes for wheel hop, upper delrin bushing for upper control/(A arm) for turning deflection. Sway bar to control sway, adjustable .... Cradle bushings require lowering the whole rear suspension as the whole rear subframe is the "cradle", but there are carrier bushings that one is part of the rear differential housing cover....that are nice to do for the carrier especially with the LPW cover which is 2 times as thick as stock to help the soft aluminum rear end not bend/twist etc and maybe break gears easier or half shafts. I would not go too hog wild as your doing just the trailing arms and toes would most likely change things enough you will feel it.......... But hey you can brake a axle stock if you apply enough force to it with sticky tires and abuse it by launching in the stratosphere....


http://www.lpwracing.com/Ultra_IRS/Ultra_IRS.html

The Cradle is the frame and is not that prone to be a problem area you would want to worry about right now as its the least cost effective to do requiring the labor to drop the entire rear or loosen it enough to get the inserts into the existing or new solid poly bushings onto the frame. The Rear diff itself though I would bush with a good set of the bushings for it to keep it solid and together, but First the trailing arms and toes.... can be done at a competent tire store that does alignments along with most of the suspension can be done there. Good Luck, and always read up and research/study parts your investing in. ZL1 axles are about $700 a set, 1000 HP axles $1200 ish, 1200 HP $1400 that's about the range for those......

Really appreciate it! My cars at the dealorship getting fixed, i have a buddy thats okay with mod friendly cars so hes hooking me up. I know for sure the bearing in the half shaft is destroyed but idk about anything else. Hes gonna let me know monday when he gets everything apart! I contacted bmr and waiting for a responce back. Thanks again!

[14SlomaroSS]

Originally Posted by SS PANTHER

I run poly cradle bushings to minimize NVH, although many swear by solid bushings. And yes to lc arm bushings. Think about what else you can afford in the suspension department such as, radius rod bushings, sways, springs or coil overs, etc. This is the foundation for good handling and traction. All the HP won't do you much good without the suspension done. Contact JDP motor sports and Jordan can set you up. Good luck.

I already installed the lowering springs.