Turbo ls3 power limits - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

RealQuick · 10-12-2021, 12:46 PM

What turbo kit are you going to run? Are you fabbing your own hot/cold side? I asked before, but you only mentioned the turbo, wastegate and BOV.

Some thought will be needed into getting a single turbo to run well and eliminate excessive back pressure or intake restrictions.

Bcoy_80 · 10-14-2021, 01:44 AM

A supercharger would make more power for me here but it’s somewhat of a budget build, I’m trying to keep the cost to around 5-6k, the turbo was offered to me for 900 when it’s 1100 plus shipping and tax, I’m not worried about smog because I will need a hot smog as soon as I change the ecu. Laws are awful here so almost any modification will make it no longer pass. About a month ago they made a law where any aftermarket ecu is not allowed to pass smog and no way I’m going forced induction on the stock ecu. So with 600-700 rwhp how big is the risk of blowing the rods and pistons. I won’t have it on high boost very often and it won’t be abused by any means. Just want to have the power available. If the stock heads and cam works good then great, I’ll probably still swap the springs which is why I was considering doing the cam since I will already have the heads apart. So far the idea is this. Holly intercooler with 76mm turbo, turbo smart blow off and waste gate. Meth injection and e85, I’m going to up the crank ventilation and a Holley terminator setup. The waste gate my friend has is I think a 44mm, it’s also mechanical and not electronic, any issues there? Read about boost spikes being common without a big enough waste gate. Last thing is I’ve never had to touch the fuel set up before. Any suggestions on what type of e85 pump and fuel lines to get? I am assuming I’ll need a dual pump. I don’t think a. Cam will be necessary if I can just get over 600 on e85, not looking for anything crazy but want the most power I can run without putting too much strain on the rods and pistons, and yes I do not plan on going over 12 psi with a stock bottom end

Bcoy_80 · 10-14-2021, 01:49 AM

Realquick, I will probably have to do my own hot and cold side. My cousin has built 3 different ls1 and can probably help me out there. They make kits for it but they are like 1500$ so I’m not sure. Any suggestions on how to eliminate excessive back pressure and intake restrictions?

gtstorey · 10-14-2021, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bcoy_80

no way I’m going forced induction on the stock ecu.

Why? Very few of the people on here running FI have swapped out ECU for aftermarket and definitely should work in your range.

RealQuick · 10-14-2021, 10:34 AM

Is the law that it has to have Factory tune... or factory ECU? If factory ECU, no worries there, you can tune the factory ECU for boost (no need for an aftermarket ECU). If you mean to say it needs to have a stock untouched tune to pass, then forget modding at all, or move lol.

For restrictions:

Intake side... running a turbo screen is best for non daily drivers. Since you will be DD'ing it, try and run an airfilter without any piping (i.e. try and run a filter right on the turbo inlet).

Exhaust.... coming out of the turbo will be a single 3" exhaust. Run an electric cutout before you go back into the dual exhaust. This will reduce back pressure under WOT. Also, dump the wastegate to atmosphere rather than back into the Downpipe.

On my Huron kit, I went from 701rwhp/738rwtq @ 16psi to 817rwhp/758rwtq @ 16psi by doing these things:

1) Removed my airfilter/tube from compressor and added screen
2) Removed the wastegate dump from the downpipe to atmosphere
3) Added cutouts.

Bcoy_80 · 10-14-2021, 02:25 PM

Yes the ecu must have the stock tune in California, I’m not worried about passing smog as I know someone who does hot smogs. So passing smog isn’t a worry for me. I am going to cat delete and add some big slp mufflers and run cut outs right before it that way I will essentially be straight piped but with the small resonators, basically the same thing so no issues there right? Or does it need to right after the turbo instead of having it straight piped

RealQuick · 10-14-2021, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bcoy_80

Yes the ecu must have the stock tune in California, I’m not worried about passing smog as I know someone who does hot smogs. So passing smog isn’t a worry for me. I am going to cat delete and add some big slp mufflers and run cut outs right before it that way I will essentially be straight piped but with the small resonators, basically the same thing so no issues there right? Or does it need to right after the turbo instead of having it straight piped

Cutouts before the resonators will work.

Bcoy_80 · 10-15-2021, 02:19 AM

Ok awesome, thanks for your help and the tips, appreciate it. Same for everyone else. Thanks a bunch

caper · 10-21-2021, 08:52 AM

i have already built the car youre thinking about building, in the state you live. its currently still not running lol. at those power levels you will eventually have the engine go if you use it. also have the trans go as well...it simply wears that stuff out. so i am on engine number 4 (3 after boost), tuned to 12lb, but needing a retune after new cam on this build. its getting kinks worked out and should be back on the road this week. SMOG is definitely an issue...better be sure your guy has the info and ability to do your car. i dont have e85, but if i was doing this again i wouldve strarted with a pump and injectors to run it in the future. at 550rwhp the zl1 and BAP is just fine...once i went with forged internals etc...i wanted more but my set up isnt set up for that and i am tired of throwing money at this thing. once you go down this rabbit hole, be prepared...nothing is as simple as it seems!!!

Greenhornet2 · 10-21-2021, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caper

i have already built the car youre thinking about building, in the state you live. its currently still not running lol. at those power levels you will eventually have the engine go if you use it. also have the trans go as well...it simply wears that stuff out. so i am on engine number 4 (3 after boost), tuned to 12lb, but needing a retune after new cam on this build. its getting kinks worked out and should be back on the road this week. SMOG is definitely an issue...better be sure your guy has the info and ability to do your car. i dont have e85, but if i was doing this again i wouldve strarted with a pump and injectors to run it in the future. at 550rwhp the zl1 and BAP is just fine...once i went with forged internals etc...i wanted more but my set up isnt set up for that and i am tired of throwing money at this thing. once you go down this rabbit hole, be prepared...nothing is as simple as it seems!!!

Sounds like you need a new tuner

Rem0v3r · 10-26-2021, 07:51 PM

I made 575hp 640tq wheel at 10/11psi on an unopened and stock l99 cam.. a cam will bump that number up. You could probably hit 600 wheel at 7-8psi..

If he's selling you a 7875 for 900 then I'd easy pass..
The 7875 will support 600 wheel but not much more and youre going to eventually turn it up, even if you dont think you will.. get an 80mm minuimum.. vs racing has brand new ones for 900..
Your pistons and rods will live as long as you use good fuel and dont go nuts with the timing.. you block sleeves are the real power limiter..
Your trans will live at 600.. make sure to tune out the torque converter lockup at everything but 6th gear cruising.. its known to come apart and take out the trans.
The rear end isn't great and itll eventually take a shit..
Start a separate car parts fund.. good luck.

RealQuick · 10-26-2021, 08:11 PM

My precision 7675 made 817rwhp/758rwtq @ 16psi... stock SBE. Not sure about chinee 7875's... but 600rwhp limit seems like a low estimate.

bayarea408 · 10-27-2021, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RealQuick

My precision 7675 made 817rwhp/758rwtq @ 16psi... stock SBE. Not sure about chinee 7875's... but 600rwhp limit seems like a low estimate.

Double the price, double the gains

RealQuick · 10-28-2021, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bayarea408

Double the price, double the gains

lol, fair enough!

10-21-2021, 08:52 AM	#23
caper Drives: 2010 IOM 2ss/RS Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: SoCal, I.E. Posts: 1,545	i have already built the car youre thinking about building, in the state you live. its currently still not running lol. at those power levels you will eventually have the engine go if you use it. also have the trans go as well...it simply wears that stuff out. so i am on engine number 4 (3 after boost), tuned to 12lb, but needing a retune after new cam on this build. its getting kinks worked out and should be back on the road this week. SMOG is definitely an issue...better be sure your guy has the info and ability to do your car. i dont have e85, but if i was doing this again i wouldve strarted with a pump and injectors to run it in the future. at 550rwhp the zl1 and BAP is just fine...once i went with forged internals etc...i wanted more but my set up isnt set up for that and i am tired of throwing money at this thing. once you go down this rabbit hole, be prepared...nothing is as simple as it seems!!! __________________ Turbonetics running 8lbs boost at 700rwhp tuned by Hi Rev, installed by K&M w/cat-muffler delete, ACS splitter, Fesler GFX, MPD1 spoiler, Custom painted Rally stripes, Cordon CR1 wheels 275/315s, Hotchkiss comp sways and end links, Barton shifter

10-12-2021, 12:46 PM	#15
RealQuick Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS M6 - Intake/Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Bridgewater Posts: 693	What turbo kit are you going to run? Are you fabbing your own hot/cold side? I asked before, but you only mentioned the turbo, wastegate and BOV. Some thought will be needed into getting a single turbo to run well and eliminate excessive back pressure or intake restrictions.

10-14-2021, 01:44 AM	#16
Bcoy_80 Drives: 2010 camaro ss (ls3 manual) Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: California bay area Posts: 7	A supercharger would make more power for me here but it’s somewhat of a budget build, I’m trying to keep the cost to around 5-6k, the turbo was offered to me for 900 when it’s 1100 plus shipping and tax, I’m not worried about smog because I will need a hot smog as soon as I change the ecu. Laws are awful here so almost any modification will make it no longer pass. About a month ago they made a law where any aftermarket ecu is not allowed to pass smog and no way I’m going forced induction on the stock ecu. So with 600-700 rwhp how big is the risk of blowing the rods and pistons. I won’t have it on high boost very often and it won’t be abused by any means. Just want to have the power available. If the stock heads and cam works good then great, I’ll probably still swap the springs which is why I was considering doing the cam since I will already have the heads apart. So far the idea is this. Holly intercooler with 76mm turbo, turbo smart blow off and waste gate. Meth injection and e85, I’m going to up the crank ventilation and a Holley terminator setup. The waste gate my friend has is I think a 44mm, it’s also mechanical and not electronic, any issues there? Read about boost spikes being common without a big enough waste gate. Last thing is I’ve never had to touch the fuel set up before. Any suggestions on what type of e85 pump and fuel lines to get? I am assuming I’ll need a dual pump. I don’t think a. Cam will be necessary if I can just get over 600 on e85, not looking for anything crazy but want the most power I can run without putting too much strain on the rods and pistons, and yes I do not plan on going over 12 psi with a stock bottom end

10-14-2021, 01:49 AM	#17
Bcoy_80 Drives: 2010 camaro ss (ls3 manual) Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: California bay area Posts: 7	Realquick, I will probably have to do my own hot and cold side. My cousin has built 3 different ls1 and can probably help me out there. They make kits for it but they are like 1500$ so I’m not sure. Any suggestions on how to eliminate excessive back pressure and intake restrictions?

10-14-2021, 10:34 AM	#19
RealQuick Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS M6 - Intake/Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Bridgewater Posts: 693	Is the law that it has to have Factory tune... or factory ECU? If factory ECU, no worries there, you can tune the factory ECU for boost (no need for an aftermarket ECU). If you mean to say it needs to have a stock untouched tune to pass, then forget modding at all, or move lol. For restrictions: Intake side... running a turbo screen is best for non daily drivers. Since you will be DD'ing it, try and run an airfilter without any piping (i.e. try and run a filter right on the turbo inlet). Exhaust.... coming out of the turbo will be a single 3" exhaust. Run an electric cutout before you go back into the dual exhaust. This will reduce back pressure under WOT. Also, dump the wastegate to atmosphere rather than back into the Downpipe. On my Huron kit, I went from 701rwhp/738rwtq @ 16psi to 817rwhp/758rwtq @ 16psi by doing these things: 1) Removed my airfilter/tube from compressor and added screen 2) Removed the wastegate dump from the downpipe to atmosphere 3) Added cutouts.

10-14-2021, 02:25 PM	#20
Bcoy_80 Drives: 2010 camaro ss (ls3 manual) Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: California bay area Posts: 7	Yes the ecu must have the stock tune in California, I’m not worried about passing smog as I know someone who does hot smogs. So passing smog isn’t a worry for me. I am going to cat delete and add some big slp mufflers and run cut outs right before it that way I will essentially be straight piped but with the small resonators, basically the same thing so no issues there right? Or does it need to right after the turbo instead of having it straight piped

10-15-2021, 02:19 AM	#22
Bcoy_80 Drives: 2010 camaro ss (ls3 manual) Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: California bay area Posts: 7	Ok awesome, thanks for your help and the tips, appreciate it. Same for everyone else. Thanks a bunch

10-26-2021, 07:51 PM	#25
Rem0v3r Drives: 2013 ss2 vert l99 Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: South florida Posts: 150	I made 575hp 640tq wheel at 10/11psi on an unopened and stock l99 cam.. a cam will bump that number up. You could probably hit 600 wheel at 7-8psi.. If he's selling you a 7875 for 900 then I'd easy pass.. The 7875 will support 600 wheel but not much more and youre going to eventually turn it up, even if you dont think you will.. get an 80mm minuimum.. vs racing has brand new ones for 900.. Your pistons and rods will live as long as you use good fuel and dont go nuts with the timing.. you block sleeves are the real power limiter.. Your trans will live at 600.. make sure to tune out the torque converter lockup at everything but 6th gear cruising.. its known to come apart and take out the trans. The rear end isn't great and itll eventually take a shit.. Start a separate car parts fund.. good luck.

10-26-2021, 08:11 PM	#26
RealQuick Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS M6 - Intake/Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Bridgewater Posts: 693	My precision 7675 made 817rwhp/758rwtq @ 16psi... stock SBE. Not sure about chinee 7875's... but 600rwhp limit seems like a low estimate.