Fuel pump replacement tips - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

charles71 · 12-11-2015, 05:44 AM

I have to replace the fuel pump on my 11 SS. Got plenty of pressure but not enough volume...if that's even possible. well in replacing it with a ZL1 pump from Phastek. Are there any tips or shortcuts to make this process as painless as possible? I know its a pretty straight forward process but any help will be greatly appreciated.

christianchevell · 12-11-2015, 06:48 AM

You can cut a access hole under the rear seat on the passenger side to do the job and save a bazillion hours of back breaking labor....... There should be some posts somewhere showing how its done then plugged with just a simple little steel square and some silicone. And I seriously doubt you do not have the volume.... You look at the duty cycle of the pump and its percentage of duty to see if you have a over taxed pump...... I am on the stock pump............ Unless yours is defective, many always think oh I have to upgrade the injectors and the pump and get a boost a pump etc..... Or they should be saying: I need a better tuner who knows how to read and understand data and WTF they are doing, if your not major boost etc....your just throwing good money as it is a non problem in a lot of cases for regular NA builds. Now you want to spray , etc you have to worry about upgrading to have the capacity.... But to get it straight, if your at 70% on the duty cycle and your at WOT ...... what you want to make sure the pump lives forever? Maybe you should talk to Tommy Wong of Wongs performance engineering.... As opinions are like......... And my last built engine I was around the 60% at WOT.

MLL67RSSS · 12-11-2015, 06:51 AM

Otherwise you have to drop the exhaust, driveshaft, and then the gas tank. It was the same on the 4th gens, many people cut the access hatch.

Drop tank:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213672

Show access hole in floor:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=230749&page=2

paul84043 · 12-11-2015, 06:58 AM

Why the hell don't they manufacture an access panel?
That kind of shortsightedness pisses me off.

JCunningham · 12-12-2015, 09:59 PM

because then they couldnt charge you to drop the tank.

spadz93 · 12-12-2015, 10:52 PM

Everyone beat me to the punch. Either you drop your exhaust/driveshaft after running your tank dry (nobody likes lifting and supporting a full tank back into place), or cut a hole under the back seats. Obviously the latter is the easier, just gotta find a way to re-seal, maybe make a door of sorts so that you can retain access to it should you need to get back there again instead of cutting multiple times

JCunningham · 12-12-2015, 11:15 PM

dont you have to drop the rear cradle to drop the tank?

spadz93 · 12-12-2015, 11:42 PM

Link to cutting route: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...89#post5708189

Link to dropping everything and wanting to kill someone route: http://www.jannettyracing.com/lpefuelsystemcamaro.pdf

Don't know about the OP, but I'd rather take a dremel and do the cutting route

Brewster · 01-28-2020, 02:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spadz93

Link to cutting route: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...89#post5708189

Link to dropping everything and wanting to kill someone route: http://www.jannettyracing.com/lpefuelsystemcamaro.pdf

Don't know about the OP, but I'd rather take a dremel and do the cutting route

would it be possible to snake a return line to the pump without dropping the tank and using the access hatch?

Greenhornet2 · 01-28-2020, 05:59 AM

Yes you have to lower the rear cradle. Its a bit scary. Front bolts all the way out. Rear bolts barely hanging on to slide the tank out the front. On a lift its not that bad. I wouldn't do it on the ground personally.

dtek · 01-28-2020, 06:24 AM

Does anyone know what the LFX v6 fuel rail pressure should be?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Greenhornet2 · 01-28-2020, 06:34 AM

43-58psi at idle

dtek · 01-28-2020, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

43-58psi at idle

Hmmm thank you, I was thinking my fuel pump is going out but I guess not. Could you checkout the post I just made please. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mikeman · 01-28-2020, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

43-58psi at idle

Is that measured at the fuel rail? I thought direct-injected engines are in the 2K+ PSI range.

12-11-2015, 05:44 AM	#1
charles71 Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 110 View My Garage	Fuel pump replacement tips I have to replace the fuel pump on my 11 SS. Got plenty of pressure but not enough volume...if that's even possible. well in replacing it with a ZL1 pump from Phastek. Are there any tips or shortcuts to make this process as painless as possible? I know its a pretty straight forward process but any help will be greatly appreciated. __________________ Livernois Stage II Heads & Cam, LS7 Lifters, Ported Intake & Throttle Body, Rotofab CAI, BBK High Flow Fuel Rail @ Guage, Eaton Tru Trac Posi with 3.91 gears, 1000 HP Axels, Kooks Long tubes & full Corsa Exhaust, GM Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Mcleod RXT Twin Disc, Vitesse Throttle Controller, 1.5" Lowering Springs, Strut Tower Brace, SLP 25% Underdrive Pulley, Apex reservoir relocation kit and air scoop.

12-11-2015, 06:48 AM	#2
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	You can cut a access hole under the rear seat on the passenger side to do the job and save a bazillion hours of back breaking labor....... There should be some posts somewhere showing how its done then plugged with just a simple little steel square and some silicone. And I seriously doubt you do not have the volume.... You look at the duty cycle of the pump and its percentage of duty to see if you have a over taxed pump...... I am on the stock pump............ Unless yours is defective, many always think oh I have to upgrade the injectors and the pump and get a boost a pump etc..... Or they should be saying: I need a better tuner who knows how to read and understand data and WTF they are doing, if your not major boost etc....your just throwing good money as it is a non problem in a lot of cases for regular NA builds. Now you want to spray , etc you have to worry about upgrading to have the capacity.... But to get it straight, if your at 70% on the duty cycle and your at WOT ...... what you want to make sure the pump lives forever? Maybe you should talk to Tommy Wong of Wongs performance engineering.... As opinions are like......... And my last built engine I was around the 60% at WOT. __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop

12-12-2015, 09:59 PM	#5
JCunningham Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: WNY Posts: 7,070	because then they couldnt charge you to drop the tank. __________________ real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1

12-12-2015, 10:52 PM	#6
spadz93 BUMBL Z Drives: 2015 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 2,573 View My Garage	Everyone beat me to the punch. Either you drop your exhaust/driveshaft after running your tank dry (nobody likes lifting and supporting a full tank back into place), or cut a hole under the back seats. Obviously the latter is the easier, just gotta find a way to re-seal, maybe make a door of sorts so that you can retain access to it should you need to get back there again instead of cutting multiple times __________________ Current: 2015 ZL1 M6, Rotofab Intake, LS3 throttle body, 2.55 Upper/9.17 Lower w/ Idler Relocation, DMS Reinforced Brick, ID1050X, 1 7/8" Headers, ProSpeed HX/Reservoir, DSX Aux Pump/Flex Fuel Sensor, E85, McLeod RXT, BMR 1" Drop, Tuned by Pat G Past: 2010 2SS, some bolt ons, 415rwhp/400rwtq

12-12-2015, 11:15 PM	#7
JCunningham Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: WNY Posts: 7,070	dont you have to drop the rear cradle to drop the tank? __________________ real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1

12-11-2015, 06:51 AM	#3
MLL67RSSS Account Suspended Drives: car Join Date: May 2008 Location: location Posts: 1,574	Otherwise you have to drop the exhaust, driveshaft, and then the gas tank. It was the same on the 4th gens, many people cut the access hatch. Drop tank: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213672 Show access hole in floor: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=230749&page=2

12-11-2015, 06:58 AM	#4
paul84043 Drives: 2015 Camaro 2SS RS 1LE Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Lehi, Utah Posts: 1,349 View My Garage	Why the hell don't they manufacture an access panel? That kind of shortsightedness pisses me off.

12-12-2015, 11:42 PM	#8
spadz93 BUMBL Z Drives: 2015 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 2,573 View My Garage	Link to cutting route: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...89#post5708189 Link to dropping everything and wanting to kill someone route: http://www.jannettyracing.com/lpefuelsystemcamaro.pdf Don't know about the OP, but I'd rather take a dremel and do the cutting route __________________ Current: 2015 ZL1 M6, Rotofab Intake, LS3 throttle body, 2.55 Upper/9.17 Lower w/ Idler Relocation, DMS Reinforced Brick, ID1050X, 1 7/8" Headers, ProSpeed HX/Reservoir, DSX Aux Pump/Flex Fuel Sensor, E85, McLeod RXT, BMR 1" Drop, Tuned by Pat G Past: 2010 2SS, some bolt ons, 415rwhp/400rwtq

01-28-2020, 05:59 AM	#10
Greenhornet2 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,925	Yes you have to lower the rear cradle. Its a bit scary. Front bolts all the way out. Rear bolts barely hanging on to slide the tank out the front. On a lift its not that bad. I wouldn't do it on the ground personally. __________________ Whipple 2.9 CAI ID1050x injectors ZL1 Pump JRE FPCM JMS Voltage booster JRE Rough Idle blower cam BTR .660 springs CHE trunnion kit 1 7/8 Speed Engineering Borla Atak JRE scoop 1.5" lowering springs BMR trailing arms and toe links Cradle inserts 704WHP 603WTQ 93 octane

01-28-2020, 06:24 AM	#11
dtek Drives: 2012 1lt Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Walker, Louisiana Posts: 150	Does anyone know what the LFX v6 fuel rail pressure should be? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ 2012 Camaro 1LT Performance Mods: • Cold Air Inductions CAI • Overkill 80mm TB • JacFab Extendolator • JacFab LaminatorFX • OverKill 93 Octane Tune

01-28-2020, 06:34 AM	#12
Greenhornet2 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,925	43-58psi at idle __________________ Whipple 2.9 CAI ID1050x injectors ZL1 Pump JRE FPCM JMS Voltage booster JRE Rough Idle blower cam BTR .660 springs CHE trunnion kit 1 7/8 Speed Engineering Borla Atak JRE scoop 1.5" lowering springs BMR trailing arms and toe links Cradle inserts 704WHP 603WTQ 93 octane