[formoutofchaos]

can you guys give your input on my last alignment? I also had some steering wheel slightly crooked so they had to adjust for that..... stay here or go more aggressive ?

[Boost Creep]

Looks rather conservative from what guys are saying on here, they are using something like -2.0° camber in front and a little toe out up front and more toe in out back.

[Boost Creep]

Factory street alignment specs?

[pbsinternet1le]

Make them give you a read out. 1st time at dealer i asked for a track alignment they sent me home with 1.5 up front. No sheet..1.5 had alot of outside tire wear.. went back and got 2.5.. going to AMP. Tomorrow. Hopefully less understeer as well.

[formoutofchaos]

I'll see you at AMP! This is what I have can you guys give me the numbers I should go for ? This isn't the dealer it's butler and they said to ask what you guys thought cause they don't know the car that well

[formoutofchaos]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

Looks rather conservative from what guys are saying on here, they are using something like -2.0° camber in front and a little toe out up front and more toe in out back.

If you guys give me numbers I can go get it today ?

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by mjk3888

Not sure I understand what you're saying, but I would leave the toe as close to dead nuts 0.0 degrees as you can get it. Front and rear. Toe Camber is the only adjustment needed unless you are trying to lay down ten tenths lap times.

Little bit of toe in (positive toe) on the rear is recommended especially on high horsepower cars, as under load the front of the rear tires will expand it will add some toe out so the toe in is applied to compensate that and make it 0 toe under load. The reason why HP supplement manual recommends toe in on the rear.

Toe out (negative toe) is never recommended on the rears . I almost hit a wall when I had my C5 Z06 at the drag strip because of that. Going sideways doing 70-80 mph on a drag strip when the nose of the car looks at the opponent is no fun


For the fronts, it's a personal preference. You can either do 0 toe or add a small amount of toe out for easy turn in. HP supplement also recommends toe in for the fronts but I am not a big fan of toe in (positive toe) up front .

This is my current alignment :

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by formoutofchaos

If you guys give me numbers I can go get it today ?

Go back and tell them to do this:


Front:
-2 to -2.2 camber (any SS 1LE should be able to get -2.2)
0 to .08 total toe OUT

Rear:
-1.5 to -1.7 camber
.08-.14 total toe IN

[glamcem]

to the OP, I would highly recommend to opt for the above numbers but since you won't be able to reach anything above -2.4 or -2.5 up front without any modifications. I would simply have them max out the front camber

[formoutofchaos]

awesome guys I'm headed there now thanks a ton!

[formoutofchaos]

Originally Posted by Provoste

Go back and tell them to do this:


Front:
-2 to -2.2 camber (any SS 1LE should be able to get -2.2)
0 to .08 total toe OUT

Rear:
-1.5 to -1.7 camber
.08-.14 total toe IN

Going with these numbers ! Also was getting the clicking on driver side turn was gonna torque lugs to 140 is that correct ?

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by formoutofchaos

Going with these numbers ! Also was getting the clicking on driver side turn was gonna torque lugs to 140 is that correct ?

Yep- though I HATE the feeling of torquing lugs to 140lbs... just feels wrong (as in too damn much). GM must have their reasons though.

[Yanbags]

Seconding glam's and provoste's comments. My shop was able to max out my front camber at ~2.6 with all the stock bits. Every bit in the front helps at the track.

Ninja edit - seriously, 140ft/lbs is nuts...terrifying doing it. My last two cars specs called for ~80ft/lbs.

[formoutofchaos]

So what should the torque be if clicking ?