NA combination to run 11s?

[shaggy2002]

What NA combination are you guys running and getting into the 11s? I am wanting to 4L80E swap my car, and would like to do cam and heads at the same time to save some money on tunes.

[Bo White]

Heads and cam th400 swap 4.10s on 18" big and skinnies run mid 11s at 3930lbs

[shaggy2002]

What heads and cam though? I realize some people may want to keep their information secret. If they do, I understand.

[frankwjr]

'lol...it's not a "secret", it's all about $$$...and time, parts, blood, etc, that racers invest into making their combo work...emphasis on "their" combo...every car and driver is different and what works for some don't fer others...

personally get your rear suspension tweaked to avoid the inevitable wheel hop that will destroy your axles(trailing arms minimum)...and some DR's to eliminate any wheel spin probs out of the hole...once that is dialed in then you can start addin more power to the combo...

good luck!

BTW - with my new DR's in back my next trip (should) see 11's if I can drive it out of the hole...and now I'm out on a limb...

[shaggy2002]

my best run on my stock car is a 12.88 but it is a M6. I plan on auto swapping it with a 4L80E, and while it is in the shop i want to put Kooks headers, a cam and some heads. There are so many opinions out there on what cam and heads are the best. I really want to get the car in 11s so i was wondering if there was a proven combo that would assist that. I do want some 17 inch wheels with full slicks on them.

In regards to the rear suspension to assist hooking and eliminating wheel hop, what kit do you recommend? BMR? I see they have a lot of suspension parts, but not sure what parts I need to help.

This is all relatively new to me, in the past I have always just raced a non modified car. I want to get more competitive bracket racing, and its hard to do that in my M6.

[acammer]

If you want to run consistent ET's, spend the money on the chassis and driveline first before worrying about power. A bolt on car (ie. headers, intake, tune) should be 11's capable with a good 1.5 second 60' time.

A good 60' time requires sticky tires on a least an 18" or smaller wheel (need some sidewall!). And once you've got sticky, you need to add strength to the components that take the most abuse. Solid bushings in the diff and rear cradle are important to control driveline wind-up and wheel-hop. A better gear ratio will take full advantage of those sticky tires.

If you stay M6 the clutch will become a factor at some point, if you're going to the track every weekend. If you go auto then a torque converter with the appropriate stall speed for your combo will make for nice, consistent, strong launches.

And who says an M6 can't be consistent. This was my last trip out on gross street tires in even grosser (DA 3100') air. I'd dial in on an 8.400 (12.830 in the quarter) and hope to be out in front enough to lift a little at the beams. Nevermind the reaction times - was racing the ET and trying to get all I could on the street tires. I bet this car will go 12.60 or better in good air.

[shaggy2002]

I got a 3.91 rear. Best I can get two passes in one day is in the same tenth, but that can get you beat in a bracket race as guys run DOD or be 1 or 2 hundreth off. You do have some consistent times with your shifting skills.

I have no problem shifting my M6, the problem is getting the same launch each time as you can move your foot off clutch different each time. What do you guys think about this for starting on the rear?

http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/manufa...s-zl1-jdps1008

[frankwjr]

I suggest this as a start...http://www.rangeracceleration.com/

[Bo White]

My ported heads with BTR stage 3 cam

[shaggy2002]

Thanks Bo for the input!

[acammer]

Originally Posted by shaggy2002

I got a 3.91 rear. Best I can get two passes in one day is in the same tenth, but that can get you beat in a bracket race as guys run DOD or be 1 or 2 hundreth off. You do have some consistent times with your shifting skills.

I have no problem shifting my M6, the problem is getting the same launch each time as you can move your foot off clutch different each time. What do you guys think about this for starting on the rear?

http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/manufa...s-zl1-jdps1008

I would consider subframe and diff bushings before trailing and toe arms. You can buy the BMR Pro kit from Phastek for like $250. I did just the diff bushings thus far when doing my 4.10 swap, and it made a noticeable difference. Sub-frame bushings are still shamefully sloppy, and those are next on my list.

I agree that for ultra-consistency an automatic is the only way to go. For what it's worth, my launch is pretty repeatable. 4.10 gears make it much easier to leave with less RPM and clutch slip, which translates into consistency. 2500rpm would bog terrible with the 3.45's, those needed closer to 4000rpm. It's about right for the 4.10's, still almost bogs, but stays hooked. Sticky tires will see that RPM come back up quite a bit, but that's all street tires will take. This is what it looks like:

[shaggy2002]

I am a M6 1LE so I have the 3.91, I have to shift into fourth right at the stripe. With the 4.10 looks like you shift into fourth sooner, which would make the top end game easier for brakes etc, because you aren't shifting as you cross. Yeah I am crazy doing the 4L80E swap, but I think it is going to be fun and as much as I enjoy going rounds shifting my car and putting some autos on the trailer, I cant step up out of street class into no box (no electronics) class without an auto as they all seem to go Dead On, or .01 or .02 off their dial with great lights.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by shaggy2002

I am a M6 1LE so I have the 3.91, I have to shift into fourth right at the stripe. With the 4.10 looks like you shift into fourth sooner, which would make the top end game easier for brakes etc, because you aren't shifting as you cross. Yeah I am crazy doing the 4L80E swap, but I think it is going to be fun and as much as I enjoy going rounds shifting my car and putting some autos on the trailer, I cant step up out of street class into no box (no electronics) class without an auto as they all seem to go Dead On, or .01 or .02 off their dial with great lights.

Yea, I'm hitting fourth ~90mph with the 4.10, so just after the 1/8th - it's a perfect ratio for me in the 1/8th.

The 3.45's I had to shift just about as I went through the beams - I was on the limiter at like 1200' in third. Fresh tires would probably have added enough tire height to get there in third.

I thought the 4.10's would hurt my trap speed in the 1/4, but it doesn't seem to have shifted much. I discount the MPH it's down in the summer heat due to the miserable air. It runs the traps at around 5500rpm in 4th now, which isn't optimal, but not horrendous.

Those bracket guys are tough - definitely a game you need an auto for once you get out of street.

[saluki]

Originally Posted by acammer

I would consider subframe and diff bushings before trailing and toe arms. You can buy the BMR Pro kit from Phastek for like $250. I did just the diff bushings thus far when doing my 4.10 swap, and it made a noticeable difference. Sub-frame bushings are still shamefully sloppy, and those are next on my list.

I agree that for ultra-consistency an automatic is the only way to go. For what it's worth, my launch is pretty repeatable. 4.10 gears make it much easier to leave with less RPM and clutch slip, which translates into consistency. 2500rpm would bog terrible with the 3.45's, those needed closer to 4000rpm. It's about right for the 4.10's, still almost bogs, but stays hooked. Sticky tires will see that RPM come back up quite a bit, but that's all street tires will take. This is what it looks like:

My plan is to do headers, bushings, 3.91s, trailing arms and toe links all at the same time. Then wheels and tires before i go back to the track.