Strut Tower Brace

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by Arogg

Id like to add one to my engine bay, even its for minimal benefit but I have an early 2010 and im pretty sure almost any I add to a 2010 requires me dropping suspension to install and at that point, the minimal benefit isnt worth it.

I have a 2010 and yes I had to drop the front springs to drill holes and add the TPIS strut tower brace adapters as you can see in my pic above in the beginning of the thread.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by Bee

Yeah, those of us with 2010's and some of the 2011's have to drop the front suspension to drill holes in the towers. I had to take off the wheels, disconnect the front sway endlinks and then remove the front struts...otherwise, there was too much tension to get the retaining nuts loose.

As others have mentioned, it did stiffen up the steering a bit but I would categorize this one as mostly for looks with a small benefit in performance. In the end, I like how it eliminated the gap under the strut retainers.

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I quickly found out why strut tower brace bar companies listed their compatibility years from 2011-2015, instead of 2010-2015… I ended up selling off my brand new BMR 2-point strut bar, to a friend, for cheap. Lol

I do see the Hotchkis and OBX 4-point chassis brace (and some others) available for the 2010 models, which require drilling/modifications to the engine bay, so I refused initially… It would also obstruct me from working on the top of the engine; not to mention ALL of the work to undone the engine bay chassis braces…

I did end up buying the multi-point chassis brace for the car underneath, which I don’t regret. I originally also added a Spohn adjustable front subframe brace, which I ended up removing bc it only fits the stock 2-pc exhaust manifolds/headers.

All in all, I think the underbody chassis braces are worth it the most. I believe Ultimate Racing makes a bunch of other parts that BMR and Phastek (some generic) brands make; although after looking through Temu, Wish, Alibaba, etc., I found a few vendors that sold a bundle package deal for suspension brace parts (front/rear strut braces, middle frame brace plate, front 6-point chassis brace, rear 6-point chassis brace, and more?).

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by TheBrightSide

I quickly found out why strut tower brace bar companies listed their compatibility years from 2011-2015, instead of 2010-2015… I ended up selling off my brand new BMR 2-point strut bar, to a friend, for cheap. Lol

I do see the Hotchkis and OBX 4-point chassis brace (and some others) available for the 2010 models, which require drilling/modifications to the engine bay, so I refused initially… It would also obstruct me from working on the top of the engine; not to mention ALL of the work to undone the engine bay chassis braces…

I did end up buying the multi-point chassis brace for the car underneath, which I don’t regret. I originally also added a Spohn adjustable front subframe brace, which I ended up removing bc it only fits the stock 2-pc exhaust manifolds/headers.

All in all, I think the underbody chassis braces are worth it the most. I believe Ultimate Racing makes a bunch of other parts that BMR and Phastek (some generic) brands make; although after looking through Temu, Wish, Alibaba, etc., I found a few vendors that sold a bundle package deal for suspension brace parts (front/rear strut braces, middle frame brace plate, front 6-point chassis brace, rear 6-point chassis brace, and more?).

I was thinking of getting the underbody chassis brace before and was told it was a waste of money. Based on the suspension mods I did to my vehicle, I was told it wouldn't even be worth it or noticeable. As of then I decided not to pursue it.

[The_bald_eagle_machine]

I have all the BMR braces including the 2 bar strut brace, and the subframe connectors. If you plan on running close to stock power and only driving your car on the streets, both of these mods are probably pointless. If you plan on autocrossing, drag racing, or road coursing... Then they will probably make a notable difference. I also advise if you plan to make alot more horsepower then stock, stiffening the chassis is probably a good idea aswell. I know that when I jack my car up from one corner, the body has 0 flex now and 3 out of 4 tires come up off the ground due to the chassis stiffening.

Another note... It does look really nice in the engine bay...

[Bee]

Originally Posted by The_bald_eagle_machine

I have all the BMR braces including the 2 bar strut brace, and the subframe connectors. If you plan on running close to stock power and only driving your car on the streets, both of these mods are probably pointless. If you plan on autocrossing, drag racing, or road coursing... Then they will probably make a notable difference. I also advise if you plan to make alot more horsepower then stock, stiffening the chassis is probably a good idea aswell. I know that when I jack my car up from one corner, the body has 0 flex now and 3 out of 4 tires come up off the ground due to the chassis stiffening.

Another note... It does look really nice in the engine bay...

...yeah, that freaked me out a little the first time it happened to me!

Subframe connectors are probably the best bang for the buck to stiffen up the chassis whereas strut tower braces are just icing on the cake.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by Bee

...yeah, that freaked me out a little the first time it happened to me!

Subframe connectors are probably the best bang for the buck to stiffen up the chassis whereas strut tower braces are just icing on the cake.

Yeah I noticed a big difference after I installed mine as soon as I backed her out of the driveway and drove away. The front end was as wishy washey as before, seemed pretty solid now to me on the first drive! And back then she was my daily driver, and being in her all the time, you notice things that change.

[0stones0]

I’ve been following this thread from the getgo and getting the urge for a project for the car. We all know it’s an addiction but, we’ll call it a project.
For how I drive, there’s really no need for me to install this as it would be an asthetic thing at best. But still, it’s a project so, no harm, no foul.
And then here’s the rub. I’ve got a 2010 and we know how it complicates and gets more expensive. A $225 nice BMR would install in roughly 30 minutes, on a 2011-2015. But, for the ‘10, $450 and a lot more time and effort for the install. Decisions…decisions. We’ll see…I’ll give it a couple weeks and see if the hardon is still there.

[SlowLS1]

I've considered doing this also, but have not done any research on it. Which bar do the '10 guys recommend? Sucks to have to drill holes, but now would be the time to do it with the Camaro in pieces.

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by SlowLS1

I've considered doing this also, but have not done any research on it. Which bar do the '10 guys recommend? Sucks to have to drill holes, but now would be the time to do it with the Camaro in pieces.

I used the GM Strut Tower Bar because I thought it looked the best out of all the others out there on the market especially if you get it painted to the color of your choice. Not sure what the other bars require... but that is what I did along with adding the TPIS strut tower adapters. From what I understand, TPIS no longer provide these adapters. I could be wrong but it wouldn't hurt to see if they could make one if you decide to go the GM strut tower bar route over aftermarket.

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by SlowLS1

I've considered doing this also, but have not done any research on it. Which bar do the '10 guys recommend? Sucks to have to drill holes, but now would be the time to do it with the Camaro in pieces.

So far, aftermarket wise, I’ve been looking at the Hotchkis unit. 4 point and looks like you can install it by just removing the wheels for easy access.
Will also fit around SC.

About $300 from Phastek.

https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...race-20109.htm

[The_bald_eagle_machine]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

So far, aftermarket wise, I’ve been looking at the Hotchkis unit. 4 point and looks like you can install it by just removing the wheels for easy access.
Will also fit around SC.

About $300 from Phastek.

https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...race-20109.htm

The Hotchkis stuff looks really nice. They make subframe braces as well that look really nice. I think the benefit to your case as you have a 2010 is that you wouldn't have to drop the struts to install the Hotchkis unit. Both require you to drill new holes.

[Howell55]

I have a 2010 with the Hotchkis strut tower brace installed. You do not have to dissemble anything to add this item. All you need is a long drill bit.

[Mr V]

Originally Posted by George-CZ

I did it in a combo together with polyurethane inserts of the entire rear axle mount and front radial rods.
And it was a night and day difference.


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Are those stickers you added after paint? Thinking about painting mine and wanted to do something other than just painting. Also was curious about those inserts. Would like to get rid of wheel hop but don't really want to increase noise or make the ride harsher. That looks like a decent go between to do it part way. How hard was it to do yourself?

[SlowLS1]

Originally Posted by Howell55

I have a 2010 with the Hotchkis strut tower brace installed. You do not have to dissemble anything to add this item. All you need is a long drill bit.

Good information to know! Thanks!