Camaro SS Bandit Conversion

[The_bald_eagle_machine]

The center section does indeed use the factory holes. for the winglets, I jsut drilled a small hole to my closest guess and then used a metal filing bit to wallow out the hole until the spoiler lined up perfectly. Used 3m tape as the "sealer" myself and haven't had any issues in the last year. I believe when i spoke to Aqua Blue about his template, he told me that the template basically tells you a rough hole drilling spot, and then tells you to wallow out the hole in the direction needed.

As for the third brake light, I spliced it into the wiring for the factory third brake light and now the rear glass third brake light does now work, but my spoiler third brake light works... So maybe you need to add a resistor to the wiring? For me I was ok with the spoiler being my new third brake light since you can't really see the rear glass one with the dovetail installed. Maybe Aqua or Hesster can weigh in on how it was wired.

Good luck Sir! Its not that bad at all and you look like you know what you are doing.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by hesster

This "Dove Tail Spoiler" showed up today, thanks to a incredibly generous individual who is a man of his word - Mr. "SSE 4 2SS".

It was wrapped in a mile of protective wrap, and took me a good 1/2 hour to unwind it all. The anticipation of laying eyes on it was worth the wait.

I will figure out how to mount it, as there is not a template anywhere that I can find on the web to locate the end Wing Pieces. Not a big deal, I will determine those hole locations, drill till it fits, and use some 3M tape. I believe the center section bolts right into the existing holes in the Deck Lid. Got to figure out what it takes to wire in the light in the Center Section to the existing 2010 Harness.

This will be a very important piece and part of my build, with a great makes Ya feel good story behind it.

I’m actually very impressed with the speaker towers you have behind the box… Info…. Power supply… wattage… lol… I’m geeking out a bit… sorry…

I’m also glad the spoiler made it undamaged…

[hesster]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

I’m actually very impressed with the speaker towers you have behind the box… Info…. Power supply… wattage… lol… I’m geeking out a bit… sorry…

I’m also glad the spoiler made it undamaged…

LOL - those behemoth's are GR Research LS9's that I built long ago as a kit, Danny Ritchie the designer supplied the hardware, I built the cabinets. Another Big project. They are powered by Emotiva XPR-1 1000W Monoblocks, and all the households within a mile of me have their lights dim when I turn them on.

I like Home Theatre stuff also....

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

I’ve got the original install instructions that outline the electrical portion of the install as well. I’ll dig them out with the template. It wires in plug and play for sure. Honestly I never bothered to wire mine in on either car, I tucked the wires into the deck lid and zip tied them there. It was never a huge deal to me.

[hesster]

Thanks AB - any help is appreciated. I like to do things correctly the first time, as you always will have to take the time to fix it if wrong.

Today cleaned the Tires and Wheels, they are in pretty good shape. Will prime and paint the inner side to clean it up, the outside polished up nicely, some minimal spider lines in the Clear Coat, but hardly noticeable. I have stripped and polished these Wheels before on my other Camaro, lot's of work and a PIA. Will run with them to dial in the car, and maybe Paint them (Snowflake Gold, with some Gold Pearl)?. In the end, they are Camaro Wheels, and not the best fit for a Bandit. Ideally get the Snowflakes, that is Big $$$, but the correct look.

And cleaned the Front Inner Fenders. And that ugly can of a Muffler, gonna get Black Paint until I go LT's and Borla.

Rotors showed up today, as well as the Halo's.

Taking back the ZTA Spoiler tomorrow now that I have the Dove Tail. There is a restock fee, but better than not being able to return it all and trying to sell it.

[hesster]

Back to Halo's, want to get that out of the way as one of the many things to do before I can begin painting.

This is Halo Assembly, with a optional twist I have done.

To install the large Oracle Halo LED Ring you have to remove the (4) Torx screws and remove the Inner plate. Under that is the stock Halo ring that will be removed, and cut off the Projector (Metal Object). You can reuse the Stock Halo Ring or not, I prefer to reuse them as it diffuses the light better.

Before Mounting the Halo Ring you want it to sit flat on the housing, so some grinding is necessary.

In the one pic I show my added Inner Halo, this is actually a Phastek Oracle Fog Halo, with a Diode Dynamics Diffuser Ring. After sticking the Fog Halo to the Housing, the Diffuser Ring is Epoxied to it. Some finesse is required to center the Ring, and ensure the Epoxy will hold it. Although the Rings have great adhesive on them, I like to add dabs of Epoxy to ensure retention. The Stock clear Halo ring is cut as noted previously, as the Projector is discarded. This Mod is like a "Demon Eye", but a little different.

A few pics show them lit with a 9v battery, very bright! Went with Amber for the Large Halo, and dual selectable color Blue/White for the Fog Inner. Test repeatably as you work the assembly process. Note I will control these independently with switchs, as Amber is Legal, Blue can get you a ticket from the Po-Po.

Before Silicone Bonding them back together, you want to heat up the Black housing and pinch the "U" channel back into shape. A hole is drilled in the Black Housing to run the Halo Wires.

Trial fit the 2 halve's together, then fill the U Channel with quality RTV Silicone. No going back now. Assemble them, wipe of any squished out goop, and let them sit for 24 hrs. Use some clamps if the tabs were broken during dissassembly and don't hold the halves fully together.

Attention to detail will ensure excellent results and reliability. I think these will look good on the Project!

Will probably also do the Fog Lights with Halo's, either in Amber or Blue.

[Bee]

Man, you really know how to get sh!t done!! LOL I'm loving the build so far look forward to seeing more of your progress.

BTW...the headlights turned out great

[hesster]

Thanks Bee - having fun as you are when we are in deep "Mod Mode".

Getting the Scoop functional has been bugging me, so I went at it again with a different approach. I abandoned the idea of using the Stock Air Box and trying to to cut a hole in that - just not enough Real Estate and complex plumbing.

Bought a CAI which makes for a straight shot into the side, and it is a really nice Air Box anyway.

So I bought a 4" diameter Aluminum Turbo Pipe, put one end in the Vice and ovalized it, and finished the shape with a hammer. Cut a hole in the Scoop, and used a 45 degree Silicone Elbow. Will cut a 4" hole in the CAI and couple it into the Box. I will close out the Air Intake side of the CAI if necessary to draw air from the scoop, but I may not have to do anything since the Scoop Pipe is pointing right at the Air Filter (when installed).

Roughed it out for now, but it looks clean and should work great.

[hesster]

Got the Fenders rough mounted and bought a supply of Body Shims, pretty sure I can get the Gaps where they need to be. It's a back and forth process to get the door gap right, not quite there yet. Mounted the Headlights, and lit up the Halos with a 9v Battery to ensure all is well, love the look.

Getting the Front Fascia ready to mount, have to strip everything off the existing Fascia as all of the brackets and guts need to be transfered to the new Fascia. Some of the stuff is Pop Rivited to it, so a little work is involved, but most of it is just snap fit, which is pretty cool since no fasteners are required. That saved $$ on the Assembly Line in the Factory.

After that, mount and gap the Hood, and document all shims used for reassembly.

Then on to the Rear.

[hesster]

Me and my old neighbor went at it today, and got the Front End On.

Here is the build process info aligned with the sequence of the Pics.

It starts with getting a perfect Gap at the Door to Fender, then you chase it to the Front End. A custom Wood Block with a GM Part Number was required after countless attempts to flush the Fender Bottom at the Door. This a old trick I used before and acts as a wedge and fixes the flush issue, a little urethane on it and it stay's put.

All of the Front Fascia Hardware is transfered to the New Fascia, and drilling and replacing Pop Rivits is part of the process.

Then fit the Panels. This is a real challenge, and at some point, say "good enough". Process is Shim, Grind Holes Larger, Shim, Shim, push in, pull out, and Shim again. Probably 50 times on the Hood.

Shoot for the best Gap and Flush possible, tweak one area, and sometimes it moves a issue to another area.

But finally almost there, last two Pics 6 & 7 - now were talking.

[hesster]

And More...

Brake Parts cleaned and ready for assembly.

I plan on reusing the Caliper Bolts after a thorough cleaning, threads must be free of old loctite. I know they have low mileage on them. Endless debate on reuse, but my approach on these TTY & T&A Fasteners is reuse only once with loctite, as they stretch, then chuck them. Do you think your local Chevy or otherwise Car Dealer changes these when removing Calipers?

Calipers cleaned and Painted. Applying Clear Coat to smooth out the brush on Caliper Paint I purchased. Yes - Gold with Gold Pearl mixed into the paint.

Got a few Wheel Inners Primed (Pic) and Painted Silver, they look good.

Then reassemble the Brakes and Mount the Wheels.

[morepowerjoe]

Here is a nice washer relocation kit if you want to move that thing out of the way.

https://www.phastekperformance.com/C...o-10165016.htm

[Rob3D]

Man that looks damned good.

[hesster]

Painted the ugly muffler can, OK for now berfoe LT's and Borla.

Worked the Fog Lamps, amber to match the H/L Halos. Did my custom Diffuser Ring on them .

Fitted the Front Fascia nose to the Hood, again lots od finesse. Looks good. Had to grind open more adjustment in the Fascia aligning pins to Fender Bracket to allow some fit/fliush tweaking.

On to the Rear Fascia.