[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by oneplustwo

I'm at -2.0 at the moment and have pretty severe outside wear (About 4 track days at Sonoma within 5000 miles total). I've read others have had good experience at about -2.9. Seems about right to me based on the wear pattern plus the fact that I get some understeer in the slower corners. Any counter arguments?

You are not maxed out camber wise even on stock bolts without any other mods whatsoever. I have 2.6F and 1.6R on stock bolts and my wear has been perfect for 3 seasons now. Find a shop that knows how to do it. Anyone ive met with 3+ camber cords their tires on the inside way before i cord mine. Waste of $ imo albeit as it relates to oem tires and sizes vs slicks etc.

PS 99% of the time understeer on entry is due to what the driver is doing, or not doing vs camber.

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

PS 99% of the time understeer on entry is due to what the driver is doing, or not doing vs camber.

Correcto mundo

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

You are not maxed out camber wise even on stock bolts without any other mods whatsoever. I have 2.6F and 1.6R on stock bolts and my wear has been perfect for 3 seasons now. Find a shop that knows how to do it. Anyone ive met with 3+ camber cords their tires on the inside way before i cord mine. Waste of $ imo albeit as it relates to oem tires and sizes vs slicks etc.

PS 99% of the time understeer on entry is due to what the driver is doing, or not doing vs camber.

Glad you finally answered that question from July

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by carguy55

Glad you finally answered that question from July

What can i say...old age? Lol! But maybe it will be useful to somebody new reading this, eh?

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by Move_Over

I did about 2mm to get -3.1 before camber plates. Only reason i got camber plates was to run 18” wheels with a reasonable (5mm) spacer. For those who run 19 and 20” this is great, i had to do both.

2mm sounds perfect

[NickeyMatt1LE]

You guys that are eating up tires with -2 or more negative camber. What are you setting the front toe at?

[94boosted]

The bolts for the front strut are not TTY and are therefore reusable correct? I was going to replace them anyways to be on the safe side, does anyone know the part number?

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by 94boosted

The bolts for the front strut are not TTY and are therefore reusable correct? I was going to replace them anyways to be on the safe side, does anyone know the part number?

Correct they are not TTY, but they are T+A.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502324

[Tim M]

Very helpful thread!

[Dabjbr]

Bump to make it hit top of my subscriptions.

And it should be a sticky

[Dabjbr]

A few photos for reference…

1) Before modification, I measured how much space was between my strut and the knuckle. I was able to fit one 1.5mm thick popsicle stick behind one side. The other was completely touching. That meant I would have to grind down the (backside) top of the knuckle to gain more negative camber.

2) Also before modification, I inserted a 10m 1.5 50mm bolt. I screwed it all the way in and marked TDC. That way, when the mod was complete, I could back out the bolt 1 full turn on both sides before tightening the 2 strut bolts. Since the bolt pitch is 1.5mm, one full turn of the bolt would bring the knuckle exactly 1.5mm closer to the strut. That makes the car similar l/r until you get to the alignment shop.

3) While doing this mod, I recommend placing a thinner bolt in the bottom hole then pivoting the top half of the knuckle out. It’ll provide enough access to grind. (I used a grinding wheel on the strut edges and Dremel for the bolt holes). Doing it this way keeps your suspension partially assembled and reassembly much easier.

Going to get my alignment done today. Hope all is well!

[Christian1LE]

No idea how you guys are wearing the outside of your tires. I always chord the inside of my tires way before the outside, and I'm maxed out at -2.2

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

No idea how you guys are wearing the outside of your tires. I always chord the inside of my tires way before the outside, and I'm maxed out at -2.2

Could be an issue related to toe and not camber. I guess I’ll see how this alignment turns out and the effect on tire wear.

The best approach is to measure temps across the tire at the end of a session. That provides solid data as to what part of the tire is working/not working and potential adjustments to camber.

[Dabjbr]

So the dealer tech is pretty legit. He gave me exactly what I wanted in terms of camber. He also nailed front toe. Rear toe could be increased a smidge for straight line stability but I’ll first drive it a bit before I personally adjust it more.

After this mod, I’m now at -2.6 front camber where previously I was maxed at -2.0. I’m also confident I could go to/past -3.0 should I desire.

Ps, the before measurements were wacky because I not only did the front strut mod but also installed solid subframe bushings and SPL rear toe links at the same time.