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Old 03-23-2019, 05:15 AM   #1
BAH2SS
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Oil on spark plugs thread

I have 2010 SS with 60k miles on it. I don't know if the plugs were changed before since i got the car around 6 months ago. Decided to go with 41-104 plugs so i pulled the old plugs out and cylinders 1,4,7,8 had oil on the thread. The rest had much much less. I've attached photos of the plugs of someone can help me out with the reading too and whether the oil on the plugs thread is a sign of something wrong.
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Old 03-23-2019, 07:06 AM   #2
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How many miles do you currently have? Do you notice any noises that are coming from your engine? When I lasted pulled and read my spark plugs about two months ago my spark plugs looked similar mine may have had slightly thicker oil residue on the thread on cylinders 1,3,6,7,8. I am sorry to hear of your unfortunate luck because it is a sign of serious problems with your engine. I pulled my intake manifold and cylinder heads. I found a very small hair line crack on the piston in cylinder #6,excessive wear on the cylinder head valve guides,and excessive oil residue in the intake manifold. I noticed no knocking or abnormal noises coming from the engine yet. I do notice slight oil burning though. I have 151K miles now and I do know I will have to rebuild or replace my short block and rebuild or replace my cylinder heads. I am doing early oil changes for now until I have time to do a complete rebuild. Myself and the previous owner drove it quite hard over the years with track duty and street duty. Look for leaking valve cover gaskets,failing o ring seals,failing piston compression rings,failing pistons,worn valve guides,oil in spark plug wells,warped pistons/valves,and blown head gaskets. Do a tear down and see what you find??
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:09 AM   #3
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No noise and i have 60000 miles on it.
No smoke and nothing abnormal.

I did compression test on cylinder 7 a while ago and got 155 and was increasing.

I actually donhave oil consumption i added a quart of oil after 3 months drive.

Previous owner had Whipple 2.9 on the car yet never drove it hard. It was a garage queen with 730 whp.
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Old 03-23-2019, 12:00 PM   #4
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Anyone?
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Old 03-23-2019, 12:51 PM   #5
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Sell it. Probably your best bet. More than likely last seller lied or knew about the issues. Good luck
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Old 03-23-2019, 01:25 PM   #6
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Thanks for thr advise. Seller is my friend. If something wrong internally the tip will get oily too not inly the thread.
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Old 03-23-2019, 01:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAH2SS View Post
Anyone?
Either way when reading spark plugs finding oil fouled spark plugs is tell tail signs of too much oil entering the combustion chamber. More times than not it is caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides. If the PCV is plugged or inoperative it can cause a build up of crankcase pressure which can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber. With out a complete tear down you will never know for sure. I highly recommend getting a compression check and leak down test done as soon as possible because this will only get worse over time. Either way I hope you have the coin set aside for rebuild or replacement or sell your car as soon as possible. However you purchased your car from obviously was not honest to you when they sold it to you.
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Old 03-23-2019, 02:20 PM   #8
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Either the plug was not torqued properly (11 ft lbs) or a leaking valve cover may be it. I see no oil/burnt oil on the plug electrode.

My guess is an improperly torqued plug which allowed it to escape from the combustion chamber... can be very subtle.

Also, make sure they are the correct plug as FI and NA have different requirements. Plug burn looks normal...

If still FI, venting the engine (Might Mouse catch can) can relieve crank case pressures — which can cause oil to seep from anywhere if the pressure is high...

-Don
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Old 03-23-2019, 02:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueovalman View Post
Either way when reading spark plugs finding oil fouled spark plugs is tell tail signs of too much oil entering the combustion chamber. More times than not it is caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides. If the PCV is plugged or inoperative it can cause a build up of crankcase pressure which can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber. With out a complete tear down you will never know for sure. I highly recommend getting a compression check and leak down test done as soon as possible because this will only get worse over time. Either way I hope you have the coin set aside for rebuild or replacement or sell your car as soon as possible. However you purchased your car from obviously was not honest to you when they sold it to you.
That’s not exactly an oil fouled plug. I wouldn’t go full on doomsday that your engines trashed just based on oil in the threads alone. I would Kee an eye on it though. I agree the burn looks good.
Based on what I’ve seen I’d also be more inclined to think the valve cover gaskets maybe are leaking a little bit. Do you have a catch can? I do tend to think it’s hard to fully believe that a 700+ whp car hasn’t been beat on at least a little.
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Old 03-23-2019, 03:00 PM   #10
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I had that oily stuff on my threads also. I think it might be gas mixed with carbon and not oil? Or it's oil and common on these engines. I'm not an expert on these but I think it's ok.
The black on them is ok, the white looks possibly slightly lean mix but no signs of big problems. Maybe go with a one step colder plug. It would be good to hear from someone who knows more rule of thumbs on these. To do a proper reading for tuning need to do WOT and then pull them immediately but now it's easier to just log the OBDII to see if there is detonation or rich/lean.
The lower compression on cyl7 and oil usage might indicate need new rings. You might be getting increased crankcase blowby. I would make sure I had a metco valved crankcase breather so I didn't blow out the rear main seal. It's only about $75. I don't have ring issues but added one just in case I get blowby during a WOT run.
I wouldn't pull the engine for new rings until it gets worse. Did you show us #7 plug?
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Old 03-23-2019, 03:35 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS View Post
That’s not exactly an oil fouled plug. I wouldn’t go full on doomsday that your engines trashed just based on oil in the threads alone. I would Kee an eye on it though. I agree the burn looks good.
Based on what I’ve seen I’d also be more inclined to think the valve cover gaskets maybe are leaking a little bit. Do you have a catch can? I do tend to think it’s hard to fully believe that a 700+ whp car hasn’t been beat on at least a little.
I've checked valve cover gasket no sign of leak.
I have just installed the catch can a week ago
The car was beat on on the Dyno and approx 4-5 times on the streets while having the supercharger and mostly 2nd and 3rd gear pull. As i mentioned before the owner did not make the build for racing. He did it for showing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by silversleeper View Post
I had that oily stuff on my threads also. I think it might be gas mixed with carbon and not oil? Or it's oil and common on these engines. I'm not an expert on these but I think it's ok.
The black on them is ok, the white looks possibly slightly lean mix but no signs of big problems. Maybe go with a one step colder plug. It would be good to hear from someone who knows more rule of thumbs on these. To do a proper reading for tuning need to do WOT and then pull them immediately but now it's easier to just log the OBDII to see if there is detonation or rich/lean.
The lower compression on cyl7 and oil usage might indicate need new rings. You might be getting increased crankcase blowby. I would make sure I had a metco valved crankcase breather so I didn't blow out the rear main seal. It's only about $75. I don't have ring issues but added one just in case I get blowby during a WOT run.
I wouldn't pull the engine for new rings until it gets worse. Did you show us #7 plug?
My AFR is 13.2 with 27 degree timing using 98 octane. Hi have zero issues no knock or detention.
I did go for a step colder plug with the same gap.
Yes cylinder 7 is among those photos. Also i did a leak down test and compression test both came out great. Compression test results was 155 after 3 cranks and was going higher.
If my compression is low wouldn't it affect power?
Car dynoed 425 whp and 430 lb.ft

Quote:
Originally Posted by hammdo View Post


Either the plug was not torqued properly (11 ft lbs) or a leaking valve cover may be it. I see no oil/burnt oil on the plug electrode.

My guess is an improperly torqued plug which allowed it to escape from the combustion chamber... can be very subtle.

Also, make sure they are the correct plug as FI and NA have different requiremethenoug burn looks normal...

If still FI, venting the engine (Might Mouse catch can) can relieve crank case pressures — which can cause oil to seep from anywhere if the pressure is high...

-Don
That's what I've read on for ther Corvette forums and ls1 tech. Some people did mention the torque specs and mamy said it's basically condensated gas mixed with some carbon or oil vapour.

I went with the Z06/Zr1 plugs. AC DELCO 41-104 same gap as ls3 but one step colder.


Thanks all for the input, much appreciated.

Personally i am guessing valve seal and guide might be my issue. What do you guys think?
What confuses me is that the electrode (tip) is clear no sign of fouling, if there was a problem with the ring wouldn't the foul the plug it self? Or have some signs on the tip (electrode)?
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Old 03-23-2019, 05:08 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by BAH2SS View Post
I've checked valve cover gasket no sign of leak.
I have just installed the catch can a week ago
The car was beat on on the Dyno and approx 4-5 times on the streets while having the supercharger and mostly 2nd and 3rd gear pull. As i mentioned before the owner did not make the build for racing. He did it for showing.




My AFR is 13.2 with 27 degree timing using 98 octane. Hi have zero issues no knock or detention.
I did go for a step colder plug with the same gap.
Yes cylinder 7 is among those photos. Also i did a leak down test and compression test both came out great. Compression test results was 155 after 3 cranks and was going higher.
If my compression is low wouldn't it affect power?
Car dynoed 425 whp and 430 lb.ft



That's what I've read on for ther Corvette forums and ls1 tech. Some people did mention the torque specs and mamy said it's basically condensated gas mixed with some carbon or oil vapour.

I went with the Z06/Zr1 plugs. AC DELCO 41-104 same gap as ls3 but one step colder.


Thanks all for the input, much appreciated.

Personally i am guessing valve seal and guide might be my issue. What do you guys think?
What confuses me is that the electrode (tip) is clear no sign of fouling, if there was a problem with the ring wouldn't the foul the plug it self? Or have some signs on the tip (electrode)?
There were some posts above me while I was typing my reply before. Don already answered you.
Horsepower doesn't drop much with that much compression ratio. I've seen dead cylinders with more like 65 or 80psi.
If you care to do more reading on that topic I researched it trying to determine what is ok or not with airplane piston engines. They say it is more determined by how much oil you consume than the exact psi. The hp doesn't change so much with partially lower cr's.
Yes if the rings were very bad I'd expect more oil burn on the plugs, that is why I asked if you posted #7.
The air fuel and spark changes depending on engine load and rpm.
Valve guide problem I don't think so.
Valve seat sealing I would not think as likely because you mention increased oil consumption which typically would be valve guides or rings.
Relax and enjoy it.
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Old 03-24-2019, 07:29 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by silversleeper View Post
There were some posts above me while I was typing my reply before. Don already answered you.
Horsepower doesn't drop much with that much compression ratio. I've seen dead cylinders with more like 65 or 80psi.
If you care to do more reading on that topic I researched it trying to determine what is ok or not with airplane piston engines. They say it is more determined by how much oil you consume than the exact psi. The hp doesn't change so much with partially lower cr's.
Yes if the rings were very bad I'd expect more oil burn on the plugs, that is why I asked if you posted #7.
The air fuel and spark changes depending on engine load and rpm.
Valve guide problem I don't think so.
Valve seat sealing I would not think as likely because you mention increased oil consumption which typically would be valve guides or rings.
Relax and enjoy it.
Thanks, i've placed an order on the metco valce cover breather as well & i have the catch can installed now. will have a look at the plugs after few hundred miles and update the post.
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Old 03-25-2019, 02:45 AM   #14
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I see quite a few plugs like that when changing them on quite a few different cars, as others have said the tip is clean, I wouldn't worry too much.
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