Floor jack slipped

[IOM Bullet]

Well, it finally happened to me. I was jacking up the front of the car, when the jack slipped from the frame and landed on the sway bar. (I put the jack slightly off center towards the passenger side, so I have better access to the oil filter).
As soon I was driving, it was pulling to the right. The next day I got the wheels aligned. (They said they couldn't remove the rear passenger bolt, but they assured me that it was still in alignment specs and suggested I try to break loose that bolt). Anyway, the alignment is better, but the car still pulls slightly to the right, and when driving on slippery roads, the front and rear of the car will move slightly from side to side. Like it wants to spin out. The mechanic said the sway bar didn't look bent. I am thinking bent sway bar links? Maybe the rubber bushings popped out? I don't know, anything else that would fail/bend or break?
Thank you everyone for any help.
Edit: Also the "service wheel sensor" is on indicating the right side tire tpms is not reading air pressure.

[Pearlj10]

I’d check the sway bar bushings and clamps and end links. Hopefully the mechanic would have noticed if the end link balls popped out, which can certainly happen. I’d also remove the end link from strut to make sure there’s nothing amiss there. Any chance the tie rod, radius rod, or LCA was damaged by the slip? Good luck.

[IOM Bullet]

Thank you for the reply. It looks like I have some detective work to do.

[Pearlj10]

Don’t fret, you’ll figure it out. Post some pictures please. The fix shouldn’t be too bad. These cars are “tippy” with floor jacks. It’s best to raise a little, support the side opposite the Jack, raise some more, etc.

[BLU DUCE]

Originally Posted by Pearlj10

Don’t fret, you’ll figure it out. Post some pictures please. The fix shouldn’t be too bad. These cars are “tippy” with floor jacks. It’s best to raise a little, support the side opposite the Jack, raise some more, etc.

Put wheel blocks in front and back of rear wheels,Put emergency brake on. Jack up the front high enough to get under car. Then put jack stands under car. Wiggle the car a little,if feels solid take the the jack out. If possible try to have someone there with you.

A lot of people don,t have enough patience to do this system. And wind up in a terrible fix.


Good Luck.

[LS1Formulation]

I bought a pair of cheap 2" lift ramps off Amazon to drive up on and it made a world of difference in being able to get my jack under the car in the correct position. But reading the OPs post, are you saying you jack the car up to do an oil change and DON'T put jackstands under it? Please, don't do that if you have been. All that is between you and death is a 15 cent hydraulic seal. BLU DUCE is 100% correct here.

[Pearlj10]

I used to do the Blu Duce method but found that very challenging after lowering springs and ZL1 bumper/splitter. I’ve also done LS1Forumation’s method. I’m currently debating a quickjack but that’s a bit of a hassle too. Maybe I’ll win the lottery and just buy/build a dedicated garage with a four post lift!! Ok, back to reality…

[Rock-It Man]

I'm trying to imagine where the jack was placed that would cause it to slip. Did the car roll? Was the parking brake on? Were there any chocks in place? 50 years of jacking up cars and this has never happened to me.

Anyway, for oil changes, the safest and simplest solution is ramps.

[ariZona28]

I remember reading a post here a while back that it's not a good idea to lift from the front cross beam/support structure especially on V8 cars since it can bend. I solved that dilemma by getting a Quick Jack 5000 SLX. Works great with several of my vehicles.

[FASTFATBOY]

Level=pro

[Tajefe Couple]

Originally Posted by BLU DUCE

Put wheel blocks in front and back of rear wheels,Put emergency brake on. Jack up the front high enough to get under car. Then put jack stands under car. Wiggle the car a little,if feels solid take the the jack out. If possible try to have someone there with you.

A lot of people don,t have enough patience to do this system. And wind up in a terrible fix.


Good Luck.

This, and I'm paranoid enough I just barely take the load off the jack and leave it in place whenever possible.

[Tajefe Couple]

Originally Posted by Pearlj10

I used to do the Blu Duce method but found that very challenging after lowering springs and ZL1 bumper/splitter. I’ve also done LS1Forumation’s method. I’m currently debating a quickjack but that’s a bit of a hassle too. Maybe I’ll win the lottery and just buy/build a dedicated garage with a four post lift!! Ok, back to reality…

One of my 5th Gens is lowered and to get the jack under it just drive on to a couple stepped 1x6's to get the jack under it.

[Pearlj10]

Arizona28: I’ve seen conflicting reports on whether the Quick Jack 5000 SLX has enough reach to get to the 5th Gen pinch weld lift points (I have the ZL1 addons lift pads). Can you please confirm where you’re lifting your 5th Gen from? Thanks

[ElderJ]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

I remember reading a post here a while back that it's not a good idea to lift from the front cross beam/support structure especially on V8 cars since it can bend.

I have a V6 and use the front cross beam as my jack point. And yes, over the past 4 years of doing this, I've noticed a slight bend in the beam. Nothing major, and if I would learn to use a piece of wood between the jack and the frame, I'd avoid this problem in the future.


I've also never noticed any play on this car when jacked up on stands.