Suspension (shock/strut) Replacement, Looking for Efficient Upgrades

[GAFL]

My 2013 SS at 88k miles needs fresh struts/springs. I am debating on whether to go OEM or OEM-like or upgrade. I honestly don't want to put a whole bunch of money into a car this age so leaning towards something in the OEM price range that may give a bit more performance. As part of the activity, I am interested in upgrading some of the bushings assuming there are some good bang for your buck replacements that would be easily accessible during the strut replacements.

Recap: what are some OEM price range struts offer better performance and are there bushings that could be changed in same area while work is being done?

[Infidel67]

Originally Posted by GAFL

My 2013 SS at 88k miles needs fresh struts/springs. I am debating on whether to go OEM or OEM-like or upgrade. I honestly don't want to put a whole bunch of money into a car this age so leaning towards something in the OEM price range that may give a bit more performance.

What you mean aged 2013 SS? you got a OK Mileage, if you don't have any other issues? that's a great Car worth every penny you put in.

[GAFL]

Originally Posted by Infidel67

What you mean aged 2013 SS? you got a OK Mileage, if you don't have any other issues? that's a great Car worth every penny you put in.

it's my cost benefit assessment and agree that it should have plenty of drivetrain life in it.

Do you have any suggestions regarding my goal to find a good OEM+ strut replacements and whether there are bushings that could be readily upgraded during the activity (i.e. low hanging fruit)?

[Sales@Phastek]

The Pedders is a great option over OEM. These will work with OEM Spring if you do not want to lower your Camaro or the RST Springs if you want to lower the stance.

[CamaroCracka]

Best super low buck suspension upgrade is the front radius arm inserts from companies like Pedders or Whiteline, $25 and definitely make a difference.

If you are not willing to pay an extra couple hundred on quality struts, then you surely don't want to invest the amount of time it will take to replace any bushing and you probably don't need them. Rock Auto was clearancing their OEM stuff and you might be able to pick up front control arms and toe rod ends cheap if they have not already disappeared. The parts will come with new bushings in them, but again, probably not needed at your mileage.

The biggest suspension improvements you can make are struts/shocks, sway bars, solid cradle bushings, but none of those are cheap. If I needed struts, I would go with 1LE spec or better units from someone like Koni or KYB.

[ABM2SS]

I did a GM 1LE+ conversion to my 284,000 mile 2010 SS last winter. What a difference! Much better than the original Suspension. I have to admit it was a lot of work and I ended up replacing a lot of other worn-out control arms, tie rod ends and such. But it was definitely worth it.

[olblue75]

75k 2010 SS get a set Bilstein B6's and call it the day.

[Pops]

Originally Posted by GAFL

My 2013 SS at 88k miles needs fresh struts/springs. I am debating on whether to go OEM or OEM-like or upgrade. I honestly don't want to put a whole bunch of money into a car this age so leaning towards something in the OEM price range that may give a bit more performance. As part of the activity, I am interested in upgrading some of the bushings assuming there are some good bang for your buck replacements that would be easily accessible during the strut replacements.

Recap: what are some OEM price range struts offer better performance and are there bushings that could be changed in same area while work is being done?

Iused Koni with BRM lowering springs love it.

[GAFL]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

If you are not willing to pay an extra couple hundred on quality struts, then you surely don't want to invest the amount of time it will take to replace any bushing and you probably don't need them.

A few hundred bucks wouldn't break the bank and I think falls into the OEM+ category. I mainly didn't want to get a set that is basically double or more the price of OEM just because it's the best performer.

Also, thanks for information on bushings and other information.

[CamaroCracka]

Originally Posted by GAFL

A few hundred bucks wouldn't break the bank and I think falls into the OEM+ category. I mainly didn't want to get a set that is basically double or more the price of OEM just because it's the best performer.

Also, thanks for information on bushings and other information.

A lot of guys like those B6's OlBlue mentioned.

[Standard]

I have a 2010, listening to the thread - staying at stock height, what changes would reduced body-roll, or reduce it as part of an efficient plan to update the suspension?

[CamaroCracka]

If you are strictly interested in reducing body roll, replace the sway bars with and FE4 setup. Stock bars are smallish and hollow. Some will say they are solid, but I cut one in half and they are hollow. The FE3 suspension on early Camaros like ours puts the sway bar end links more inboard than the later FE4 (2012 and later). Swapping to the FE4 with bigger bars is huge change. You will also need the bigger sway bar end links on the front that came on later cars. When I went to replace mine the old units fell apart and I don't have a lot of miles and had only been running a 27mm bar for about 5k miles.

If you really want to make a difference, put in solid or at least poly cradle bushings with the new bars as well as radius arm inserts ($25) and a new set of Billstein. Koni, etc. shocks. Get 1LE spec shocks.

[Standard]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

If you are strictly interested in reducing body roll, replace the sway bars with and FE4 setup. Stock bars are smallish and hollow. Some will say they are solid, but I cut one in half and they are hollow. The FE3 suspension on early Camaros like ours puts the sway bar end links more inboard than the later FE4 (2012 and later). Swapping to the FE4 with bigger bars is huge change. You will also need the bigger sway bar end links on the front that came on later cars. When I went to replace mine the old units fell apart and I don't have a lot of miles and had only been running a 27mm bar for about 5k miles.

If you really want to make a difference, put in solid or at least poly cradle bushings with the new bars as well as radius arm inserts ($25) and a new set of Billstein. Koni, etc. shocks. Get 1LE spec shocks.

I don't have the vocabulary to understand what these parts are, am trying to search.

But first - how does this recipe affect ride comfort? Is all body roll reduction coupled with unpleasantness? I'm really after 'improved-stock'. Would "1LE" rated shocks be too harsh, or does 1LE-ness of ride also include many other factors? Gah - I realize this is vague bordering on outright subjective.

Also, while getting this done, is there any rubber in the suspension (aside from things around swaybars and those cradle bushings) that should be replaced?

[CamaroCracka]

Originally Posted by Standard

Is all body roll reduction coupled with unpleasantness?

Are you sure you are from Texas? I've never heard anyone from Texas refer to NVH as "unpleasantness." Also, why does your info say you have a 2023 ZL1?

You say stock, but the 1LE and Z28 suspension are stock for their respective cars. The 1LE runs the same springs as the SS. The difference with the shocks is that 1LE are monotube and Z28 are spool valve. What really makes the Z ride harsher is the 600 pound springs and reduces travel, but that is not relevant to this discussion. If you just wanted a soft pillowy ride, I don't think you would have purchased a Camaro in the first place. Changing suspension components definitely changes how a car rides, but most Camaro owners would see a move from the 2010 SS suspension to something like the later 1LE set up as a positive move.

FE3 refers to the original rear suspension used in 2010-11. FE4 is 2012 on and uses a different rear sway bar that is longer, thus having more leverage on the lower control arm (LCA). The 1LE cars use this with a 28mm solid rear bar and 27mm solid front bar. It's one of the biggest differences with the 1LE that makes it handle better. Converting to FE4 from FE3 requires that later LCAs, sway bar links, and sway bar. The factory FE4 LCAs work well and are only about $60 if they have not been discontinued. Links were under $20 a side. I run a 32mm rear bar from Pedders on the vert, but you decide what bars you want to run. Justice Pete recommended 5mm larger bars in the rear to reach neutral steering.

Here is a link to a thread. https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388157