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Old 12-03-2021, 01:37 PM   #1
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Bracket racing set up parts priority

Hello all,

Im currently planning to buy a 5th gen SS L99/A6 in the next few months. I will be bracket racing it this summer at the local track here in Billings Montana. The car will be a street strip car not a dedicated racer. I do however want consistent 60 foots and ET at the strip to be somewhat competitive in the sportsman class. Sportsman here is cars 12.0 ET and slower, no transbrake or electronic controls, slicks allowed.

I plan to focus the first year on suspension/chassis to be consistent and not break a ton of parts. DA at the track runs 6000-6500 in August at 3800 feet of elevation.

I have rough idea what order I want to buy parts. first on the list is 17 or 18 inch wheels and drag radials. I have to drive around 20 miles one way to the track.

Next I am planning to get BMR rear suspension Trailing arms Toe Rods, Poly rear cradle bushings and diff bushings. Eventually i will do the whole drag kit with springs/shocks/etc from BMR. Can i get by with the suspension mods above and be consistent with stock power in an A6, or should I do the whole rear drag kit at once?

Are there other weak spots i should address before doing bolt ons? I read the stock posi is a little weak and might need clutches or a new posi made for more horsepower. Converter is a possibilty but i dont want huge stall.

If i have some money left i may do a CAI, LT headers, and a tune.

Long term goal with the car is a street strip car 500-600 crank horsepower (bolts on's and stage 1 cam with afm delete, or supercharger haven't decided yet) I don't want to run faster than 12.0 or i get stuck with all the full drag cars with trans-breaks and electronics. That will kill the street ability of the car for me. It would be nice if i could get 20 mpg or better on the highway.
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Old 12-03-2021, 06:37 PM   #2
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I didn't do drag shocks until I went to 15's in back with the BMR kit.

I would do 17" DRs not 18s.

What do you want to run in that 6000 DA air?
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Old 12-03-2021, 07:33 PM   #3
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The closer to 12.0 the better. But I'd be happy with anything consistent and reliable under 12.99 seconds.

Im guessing a bit but i think that a stock ss would run about 14.0 here. The nrha elevation correction is .95 for 3800 feet. 14.0 x .95 is 13.3 seconds. I think that is what motortrend claimed in their test.

Do you think differential needs stronger parts to last at stock power levels?
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Old 12-04-2021, 12:45 PM   #4
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What tire do you reccomend with the 17. The 305 45 17 MT et street R looks good if it will fit that wide a tire

Last edited by Heads-up; 12-04-2021 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 12-04-2021, 11:33 PM   #5
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That’s what I have on dark stars
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Old 12-06-2021, 07:12 AM   #6
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Thanks
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Old 12-06-2021, 05:54 PM   #7
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You can keep the diff alive a long time by making sure you do burnouts in a bit of water. If you run skinnies you can drive through the water box.

I'm struggling with the conversion of that DA to what power you need to make.

So to go 12.0 at sea level you you'll need headers, cold air, drag tires in back, a converte OR some gear. But at that DA don't you need to make more power to hit that 12.0?
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Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II
13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune
11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts
10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800
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Old 12-07-2021, 06:50 PM   #8
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I've heard from the semi serious racers at the local track that you lose .01 et for every 100 feet of DA. For 6000 that's .6 seconds slower. That sorta matches the nhra formula for elevation. I tried to link the table from nhra but my phone is not cooperating.
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Old 12-08-2021, 09:14 PM   #9
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So you need a sea level combo that runs 11.4 to run 12.0 then?

You'll need a cam or blower to do that, hard to do that with headers, cai, tire, tune only.
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Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II
13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune
11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts
10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800
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Old 12-08-2021, 10:36 PM   #10
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I’d go solid rear cradle bushing vs poly lock it place no chance of movement.
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Old 12-16-2021, 06:00 PM   #11
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If you are A6, you can run 11.4-12.0 stock suspension no problem, people have run 10s with stock stuff.
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PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY
Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II
13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune
11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts
10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800
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Old 12-18-2021, 06:11 PM   #12
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The weak links on the rear are the axles, and the differential, they will hold mid-higher 1.6 60' times, but at the RWHP you are planning, they are on borrowed time.
Tru Trac differential and upgraded axles are needed.

At your DA, my old setup would run right about 12.0, 100 hp nitrous shot, Roto-fab CAI, Stainless Works 1 7/8" LT's, Circle D 3200 converter, 391 gear, MT ET R 17's.
Your shift points most likely will require multiple tunes to get dialed in.

The Bo White throttle body is a must in IMO. It allows me to cut better lights. The stock TB has a slight delay before it fully opens, Bo's doesnt.
A line lock also helps with consistent burn outs.

The Jannetty Racing transmission dipstick is a must as well. Our cars are generally on the low side when filled at the factory, some to the point where the transmission actually sucks air.
I was able to add almost 2 quarts, the transmission runs 10 degrees cooler.

A tenth was found from just removing the front passenger seat, and the rear seat. 7 bolts total. Along with the floormats and battery cover. I weigh 230, so you may only need to remove the passenger seat.

I get 22 mpg on the highway, but city is only 13.5.
I have a small transmission cooler, and can drive 2 hours on the interstate before it needs cooling.

After 3 passes on a 10lb bottle, the nitrous will begin to taper off, so you'll need either a second bottle, or get it topped there if they provide it.
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Old 03-17-2022, 08:55 AM   #13
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As a side note I will say this. Been bracket racing since I’ve had my license ( 25yrs)
You will not be competitive running any type of power adder even at your local track.
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Old 03-17-2022, 07:27 PM   #14
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Remove weight,stuff that you don't need,(rear seat,trunk accessories)
- Line Lock
-Solid cradle bushings
- Trailing and toe arms
- Alignment
- 17" Drag radials(M/T 305's or M&H 325's) with 17" Racestars,VMS,or Welds.
-Posi mod or Truetrac
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