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Old 02-21-2019, 01:38 PM   #1
DevilDriverMark
 
Drives: Chevrolet Camaro
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No Crank No Start

No crank no start.
I have a 2010 Chevy Camaro SS with a manual trans. 48k miles. My camaro stalled out all of a sudden 12/24/18. It acted as if the fuel pump died. Battery is new, all fuses r good all connections r good. I had the starter tested and its good. I changed the fuel pump, the clutch position sensor and the ignition switch. Im now leaning towards something with the immobilizer. Security light only stays on for the normal 5 seconds. When i turn the key to start, all the lights go out like as if it was going to start but i get nothing. It runs all tests as if it were started. All electronics work, windows work and everything else. I'm trying to avoid going to the dealer obviously bc they will charge an arm and a leg for a $5 part/fix. Would really appreciate the help.
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Old 02-21-2019, 01:48 PM   #2
gringo
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Any SES codes?
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:36 PM   #3
DevilDriverMark
 
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Gringo. No codes, nothing pending either. Car was running perfectly. It just stalled when i was backing out of a parking space. Tried to restart and it wouldn't. Rolled back into another parking space. Let it sit for a couple minutes. Tried to start and it started up. I sat to make sure it was good. After about 30 to 45 seconds it stalled out again and hasn't started since.
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:56 PM   #4
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What mods do you have? And tune if any?
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:16 PM   #5
DevilDriverMark
 
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Performance exhaust from GM. Otherwise no mods of any kind. Also bought it used with 14k miles. Have it 3 yrs now. No issues of any kind till this one.
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:39 AM   #6
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Think I would just bite the bullet and take it in to the dealer, rather than just replacing parts. They are more equipped to test electrical than you are. You may end up being money ahead with them.
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Old 02-22-2019, 01:41 PM   #7
DevilDriverMark
 
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Thanks guys. It was worth the shot to ask.
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Old 02-22-2019, 03:54 PM   #8
silversleeper
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Have you tried your OTHER key and fob?
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Old 02-22-2019, 04:36 PM   #9
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I believe I paid $150 or thereabouts for an hour and 1/2 of diags recently (Electrical issue). You can have them find the problem and repair yourself. Of course you would still need towing though.

How much do you have into it already? I hate to see someone just throwing parts at an issue.
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Old 02-22-2019, 05:41 PM   #10
silversleeper
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Page 1345 of the service manual
DTC B3935 00Transponder Authentication Error Circuit/System Description When an ignition key is inserted into the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition is switched ON, the transponder embedded in the key is energized by the exciter coils located in the theft deterrent module. The transponder transmits a signal that is received by the theft deterrent module and is sent to the body control module (BCM). The BCM then compares this value to a value stored in memory. If the value is correct, the BCM will send the prerelease password via the serial data circuit to the engine control module (ECM). If the learned key code does not match or a transponder value is not received, the BCM will send the start disable password to the ECM. Conditions for Running the DTC Ignition is in the Accessory or Run position.
A valid transponder value has been read. Conditions for Setting the DTC The transponder value is valid and matches the value stored in the BCM memory. The transponder calculation of the challenge from the BCM does not match the BCM calculation. Action Taken When the DTC Sets Vehicle starting will be disabled. The security indicator will illuminate. The driver information center will display a service message. Conditions for Clearing the DTC A current DTC will be cleared when a valid transponder value has been read and authenticated. A history DTC will be cleared after 100 malfunction-free ignition cycles or when a scan tool is used to clear DTCs
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:07 PM   #11
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no crank check your starter relay circuit see if the relay is being commanded to engage the starter is one check. tap on your under hood fuse box. see if you have bad fuse box, might jar your connection where it will start. My 2010 had corrosion water intrusion in the right side ip cluster 32way connector. it was leaking from a unsealed body joint out on the cowl panel and leaking inside into the 32 way connector and had water under the carpet. found a bulletin on it this vary thing. I personal would take it in and have it looked at. Theres diagnostic tools that can be very handy localizing your problem.
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Old 02-23-2019, 09:22 PM   #12
DevilDriverMark
 
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I have tried the spare key and remote. Got the same thing. No codes, well basically none that i can read. I have a cheap OBDII reader. I spent around $300 in parts, fuel pump, clutch position sensor and ignition switch. Fuse box looks fine, nothing loose or water intrusion preasent. I did pull the bcm last week to see if i could see any corrosion, saw nothing. When i put it back in. I attemped to start it, turned to start nothing happened at first, released key but still had my foot on the clutch, about a second later the the starter attemped to start the car for a half a second. I attempted to start again and it just does nothing. I figured when i pulled the bcm that the failure was cleared so thats why it tried to start when i put it back in.
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Old 02-25-2019, 03:37 PM   #13
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There are many things that cause this. TCM cable isn't fully seated into the transmission plug (at least on an automatic, IDK for sure on a manual like yours). ECM cables aren't fully inserted. Wiring short. The list goes on and on.
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Old 02-28-2019, 03:43 PM   #14
DevilDriverMark
 
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My car is currently at the dealer. As of today they think its the ECM. Wont know till tomorrow when they get it and put it in and program it. $1046.00 if it turns out to be the problem.
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