07-05-2019, 04:11 PM | #1 |
Started#gottalovethatblue
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P0420 P0430 codes and car won't start
So I finished a 4th of July parade, shut the car down and it wouldn't start again. I had a friend run a code checker to see if I had any codes and P0420 and P0430 came up. They're catalytic converter related so I pulled a cat and it looks great. Has anyone experienced anything like this in the past, what was wrong, and how did you fix it?
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07-05-2019, 06:39 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2015 1LE Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 1,485
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Check the basics, fuel, spark
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2015 1LE, TSP 225/236 113+3, VMAX Throttle Body, CAI with race scoop, GPI Ported Intake, Land Speed Stage 2 Heads, 1-7/8 headers, NPP exhaust, 25% Fluidampr, LT1-S Monster Clutch, 485 RWHP & 444 TQ
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07-05-2019, 07:30 PM | #3 |
Started#gottalovethatblue
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Fuel pressure at 62 during cranking, plugs appear to still have spark and don't look bad.
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07-05-2019, 09:36 PM | #4 |
old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,587
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I would be checking to see if anything melted down by headers on the O2 harnesses...
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2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop
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07-06-2019, 06:48 AM | #5 |
Started#gottalovethatblue
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That's my next step, to see if my O2 extenders melted, but they're hard to get at right now.
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07-08-2019, 05:07 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Coupe; 2011 2LT Vert Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Prosper, TX
Posts: 458
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This could be an issue with having the downstream O2 sensors still enabled while running long tube headers. My tuner says he turns off the rear O2 sensors when he tunes a car with long tubes regardless of whether it has cats because the heat source is too far away from the sensors and will eventually cause the CEL to come on.
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2010 2SS/RS LS3 - K&N, GM Performance Axle Back, Hurst Shifter, TSP 1 7/8ths long tubes no cats, TSP Stage 2 "Bald Eagle" cam, GM 3.91, 466whp/429tq
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07-08-2019, 08:19 PM | #7 | |
Drives: 2004 GTO & 2005 GTO Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 303
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07-09-2019, 01:33 PM | #8 | |
Drives: 2010 2SS Coupe; 2011 2LT Vert Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Prosper, TX
Posts: 458
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Pyro - I am curious if you have any other trouble codes popping up. Also, what happens when you try to start it? Does it crank at all? Or does it fire up and stall out? Or just nothing? I had a stupid thing happen when I installed my headers and cam earlier this year and forgot to tie back the main harness on the passenger side. It drove fine for 500 miles until I took on a long drive and had a bunch of codes pop up. When I got under the hood, I noticed that my harness was barely touching the number 8 header tube and when I unwrapped it, I had burned through about 14 wires. 23 splices later and some new heat wrap and all was better.
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2010 2SS/RS LS3 - K&N, GM Performance Axle Back, Hurst Shifter, TSP 1 7/8ths long tubes no cats, TSP Stage 2 "Bald Eagle" cam, GM 3.91, 466whp/429tq
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07-09-2019, 04:06 PM | #9 | |
Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,998
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They aren't used to adjust anything though, you are right about that. They are there to monitor the efficiency of the converters. None of the O2 sensors should prevent the car from running though. I don't think you are chasing the real problem. Maybe someone stuffed potatoes into your exhaust. Have you tried to start it without the cat(s) installed?
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2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM
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07-09-2019, 09:21 PM | #10 | ||
Started#gottalovethatblue
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As for the wires, I wasn’t the one who did the cam swap. A reputable shop in my area did the cam swap and that’s where I’m going to take the car this weekend. Quote:
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07-10-2019, 10:44 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Coupe; 2011 2LT Vert Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Prosper, TX
Posts: 458
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I am puzzled by the car not running. Kind of indicates melted cats. But you don't have the heat from boost that would suggest your cats would melt and clog up.
If you tried to start it without the cats and it ran, it would indicate that your cats melted. If I remember correctly, the Kooks HFCs have the full honeycomb internals making it hard to see through them. Melting can occur anywhere within the cat making them look fine from appearance but still be damaged. It might be worth a shot to try to start it up without the cats on if you are brave enough. If there were something else causing it not to run (like a MAF sensor) you'd have other codes stored. If you don't want to risk damage and take it to the shop, that is certainly reasonable though.
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2010 2SS/RS LS3 - K&N, GM Performance Axle Back, Hurst Shifter, TSP 1 7/8ths long tubes no cats, TSP Stage 2 "Bald Eagle" cam, GM 3.91, 466whp/429tq
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07-10-2019, 11:11 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS ABM 6M Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 617
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I would pop the cats off and see if it fires up. Easy way to tell if that's your culprit
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2010 ABM 2SS/RS LS3 6 Speed -- Rotofab CAI | Speed Engineering 1 7/8" Longtubes w/ cat Delete | Magnaflow competition catback | TSP 231/246 cam| TSP/PAC .660" Spring Kit | TSP CNC Ported Heads | Bo White PTB | GPI Ported/RM Intake | 3.91's | BC Catch Can | MGW Shifter | BMR 1" Drop Springs | BMR Trailing arms/Toe Rods/Rear UCA Bushings | Pegasus Subframe Mounts
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07-10-2019, 02:05 PM | #13 | |
Drives: 2004 GTO & 2005 GTO Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 303
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That's why I used the word "input". The are read by the ECU, and that's it. Fueling and spark are not affected by what the downstream 02's read. OP - Are you able to get a hold of a code reader to see if there are any "pending" codes? I've always suggested to people who begin to mod their car to buy a good code reader that can monitor some data. It can be a lifesaver in pinpointing what's going on. |
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07-10-2019, 02:18 PM | #14 | |
Started#gottalovethatblue
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