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Old 12-12-2012, 05:51 PM   #15
nikos30
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so I really put the do it yourself in do it yourself with this installation. I didnt know any of the factory specs or anything. I simply turned it until I couldnt turn anymore. Everything came out fine and I have 0 issues so far.

1 question: On top of the back left spring, the rubber spacing (that the spring kinda goes into) isn't perfectly set right. So the spring is touching the top of it without the rubber between it. is that bad at all? it doesnt make a sound or anything, just wondering for the long term situation.

thanks
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beast1 View Post
where do you find all the specs to tighten it back up at??
Front and Rear Bolt Torque Values




NOTE: Torque specifications that read XX torque value and XX degrees are usually TTY and require replacement of the bolt, nut or both. If replacement parts are not available from GM the minimum acceptable torque will be those values stated along with a liberal application of a thread locker i.e. LocTite.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nikos30 View Post
I do not know what "timing the bushings" but I know I need to do it. Is that included in this install process?
Bush Timing

Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

Step 3.
Lower the car and drive it around the parking lot SLOWLY and on to the alignment lift.

Step 4.
With the weight of the car on the wheels tighten all of the nuts/bolts to spec.

Step 5.
Align the car at the new ride height.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:39 PM   #17
Ivan @ Southwest Speed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy SS View Post
I just ordered some Eibachs lowering springs, will definatley will have the laptop out in the garage with the wife reading this step by step!

Thx Ivan for taking the time to do this write up
You bet!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Front and Rear Bolt Torque Values




NOTE: Torque specifications that read XX torque value and XX degrees are usually TTY and require replacement of the bolt, nut or both. If replacement parts are not available from GM the minimum acceptable torque will be those values stated along with a liberal application of a thread locker i.e. LocTite.



Bush Timing

Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

Step 3.
Lower the car and drive it around the parking lot SLOWLY and on to the alignment lift.

Step 4.
With the weight of the car on the wheels tighten all of the nuts/bolts to spec.

Step 5.
Align the car at the new ride height.
Thank you for the assist Pete!! Nice work!
Ivan
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan @ Southwest Speed View Post
You bet!!
Thank you for the assist Pete!! Nice work!
Ivan
Good to hear you didn't mind. I almost didn't post this being your thread.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:54 PM   #19
nikos30
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what about my second post? can you please answer that?
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikos30 View Post
1 question: On top of the back left spring, the rubber spacing (that the spring kinda goes into) isn't perfectly set right. So the spring is touching the top of it without the rubber between it. is that bad at all? it doesnt make a sound or anything, just wondering for the long term situation.

thanks
If the end of the coil is touching the upper spring perch it will transmit more road noise. The only damage it will do is to the rubber insulator it is supposed to be seated in. With the end of the coil touching the spring perch the insulator is out of place. At some point the eneven pressure will cut that rubber insulator. When you have the time, pull it apart and re-seat it.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:25 PM   #21
nikos30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
If the end of the coil is touching the upper spring perch it will transmit more road noise. The only damage it will do is to the rubber insulator it is supposed to be seated in. With the end of the coil touching the spring perch the insulator is out of place. At some point the eneven pressure will cut that rubber insulator. When you have the time, pull it apart and re-seat it.
Ok. That is what I was planning on doing. Thanks Pete!
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:25 PM   #22
Ivan @ Southwest Speed
 
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Good to hear you didn't mind. I almost didn't post this being your thread.
Oh na man. Im not "that guy." LOL

We respect ya and hell, if you ever need another honest bunch folks to represent ya down here in the Southwest, give us a call.

I'll work for ya.

Thank you for helpin it out sir.
Ivan
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:16 AM   #23
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Vendors acting like adults? What alternate reality am I in?

You guys are the role models that we all should follow. Big thumbs up to you both!
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:28 AM   #24
Ivan @ Southwest Speed
 
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Vendors acting like adults? What alternate reality am I in?

You guys are the role models that we all should follow. Big thumbs up to you both!
There are a few of us who actually get it......

Although we've crossed paths on dozens of customers, I don't think that we've ever actually met in person. But from my end, I know how our mutual customers have been treated by them on their side so that, in my book, makes them good folks.

I'd like to think that Pete and I are some of the few that are actually here to "SUPPORT" the forum and not just sell stuff to folks.

Glad that he is able to offer that technical aspect of suspension that is above my knowledgebases....and that he did for some of y'all here.

Ivan
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Old 12-14-2012, 12:36 PM   #25
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I like this thread and think Ivan and I need to meet.
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Old 12-14-2012, 04:07 PM   #26
Ivan @ Southwest Speed
 
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Just next door although your place is most likely nicer right about now...

Ivan
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:55 PM   #27
nicave13@gmail.com
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Hey Ivan, doing research on getting lowering springs and of course gonna install myself. Doing so I ran across this thread. Looks pretty easy.

Quick question, are there any good quality lowering springs giving about a 1.5 drop front 1" drop rear that don't make ride any harsher? I'm aware most lowering springs are for performance driving, what about comfort? I see most offer progressive rate coils, great idea, just wondering which will be smoothest! Thanks Ivan!
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:59 PM   #28
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Update...Build in process, Forged Rods, Pistons and rings, Johnson Lifters, NOVI1500 ECS SC, 13lb boost or more, LS3 Conversion 114/228/241 COMP CAM, Frostbite 4 row Aluminum radiator, 6L80 built, Circle D 6L80 PRO SERIES MULTI 258MM 2D, Stock 3.45 gears, 1-7/8 American Racing Headers w/HF cat, X-Pipe, Lingenfelter dual fuel pump, E-85 flex sensor, ATI super damper pulley, Ported TB, 160 therm, Trans cooler, Pedder's sways/end links/sub frame bushings, BMR trailing arms & toe rods, Coil overs. HP/TQ pending
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