[waterman]

Savagegeese produced and recently released a short video on GDI problems and solutions. These guys are not sponsored and do a great job providing unbiased information.

There is some good information for those who may still be on the fence regarding catch cans and 0W- oils and oil volatility. Including their benefits and/or drawbacks in GDI engines.

[soceur77]

i m wandering now if the fuel solution from one of the vendors addresses this issue?

[Opus13]

I already know about all this info except for oil volatility. Knowledge is a good thing, cool video, thanks.

[waterman]

Originally Posted by Opus13

I already know about all this info except for oil volatility. Knowledge is a good thing, cool video, thanks.

Roger that. I already have my mind made up on a CC. Going to be proactive to dramatically reduce the coking and varnishing from GDI.

I originally thought that the recent reveal that Chevy is endorsing the 0W- oils for all of the LT's was exciting news. Honestly, it makes a lot of sense for the LT5 with dual FI. However with the volatility of the lower viscosity oil revealed by the NOACK test, I'll stick with the 5W- for the LT4 on the street.

[Thelma - 2017 RS]

I am new around here so forgive my basic question which I am sure has been discussed but seems relevant to the topic... Seafoam, if it is introduced in the air intake system does it do a suitable job in cleaning the back side of the valves? Just wondering if both the catch can and a regular cycle of any cleaner that can come in through the head would be suitable preventative maintenance.

[motorhead]

Originally Posted by Thelma - 2017 RS

I am new around here so forgive my basic question which I am sure has been discussed but seems relevant to the topic... Seafoam, if it is introduced in the air intake system does it do a suitable job in cleaning the back side of the valves? Just wondering if both the catch can and a regular cycle of any cleaner that can come in through the head would be suitable preventative maintenance.

My experience with seafoam and its ability to fix valve coking is that it doesn't. As a preventative before coking happens however, I dont know. It sure smokes like hell and looks like somethings is happening though it did nothing to fix the issue I had. I did however find a product made by CRC that did fix the cold fire miss starts and cylinder misfire codes I was having on my daughter's Equinox. The car's MPGs also went up 3 to4 MPGs since performing that service with the CRC product.

[DangerZL1]

Originally Posted by Thelma - 2017 RS

I am new around here so forgive my basic question which I am sure has been discussed but seems relevant to the topic... Seafoam, if it is introduced in the air intake system does it do a suitable job in cleaning the back side of the valves? Just wondering if both the catch can and a regular cycle of any cleaner that can come in through the head would be suitable preventative maintenance.

A lot of people swear by Seafoam and other products. While these may work on a port injected system, they don’t work on the GDI systems. The fuel never contacts the back of the valve since it is sprayed “directly” into the cylinder. This is probably the main reason you’re seeking Ford using both systems on the new 5.0 Mustangs. If you do some research, you’ll find that manufacturers like BMW have problems with coking which require mechanical abraiding to remove.

[whiteboyblues2001]

Originally Posted by DangerZL1

A lot of people swear by Seafoam and other products. While these may work on a port injected system, they don’t work on the GDI systems. The fuel never contacts the back of the valve since it is sprayed “directly” into the cylinder. This is probably the main reason you’re seeking Ford using both systems on the new 5.0 Mustangs. If you do some research, you’ll find that manufacturers like BMW have problems with coking which require mechanical abraiding to remove.

This is wrong information! The Seafoam that the other poster is talking about comes with a small hose you put between the intake boot and the throttle. So you are spraying the Seafoam directly into the throttle and intake manifold, and it will come in contact with the backs of the valves. There are other Seafoam products, but this one DEFINITELY comes in contact with the backs of the valves because you don't put it in the fuel, you spray it into the intake manifold through the throttle.

It's best to use it on a regular basis rather than wait for problems to occur. In addition, the LT1 engine comes with an oil separator built into the valve covers, so that adds some protection. Also, small displacement turbos tend to be more susceptible to this issue since there is more combustion in a smaller space (with a smaller amount of rings to seal in the combustion). That is also why so many cars with 2.0L turbos have had issues burning oil (like VW, Audi, BMW, Subaru, etc..) Some owners are complaining of going through a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so (in extreme cases). That is going to poop all over the backs of your valves. Direct injection only adds to the problem, it doesn't necessarily create it.

In any case, it is recommended to get a good catch can to help out as well. I have one, and it does catch oil, but not a ton (probably because I don't lose much oil to begin with). My car doesn't lose hardly any oil between oil changes. The dipstick is still pretty much on the full mark when I change oil (at about 5,000 miles). If you lose a quart of oil between oil changes, you would want a catch can and Seafoam the intake to clean the valves once in a while.

[Sooner Cole]

Great video. Very easy to understand. Thanks!

[Thelma - 2017 RS]

Originally Posted by whiteboyblues2001

This is wrong information! The Seafoam that the other poster is talking about comes with a small hose you put between the intake boot and the throttle. So you are spraying the Seafoam directly into the throttle and intake manifold, and it will come in contact with the backs of the valves. There are other Seafoam products, but this one DEFINITELY comes in contact with the backs of the valves because you don't put it in the fuel, you spray it into the intake manifold through the throttle.

It's best to use it on a regular basis rather than wait for problems to occur. In addition, the LT1 engine comes with an oil separator built into the valve covers, so that adds some protection. Also, small displacement turbos tend to be more susceptible to this issue since there is more combustion in a smaller space (with a smaller amount of rings to seal in the combustion). That is also why so many cars with 2.0L turbos have had issues burning oil (like VW, Audi, BMW, Subaru, etc..) Some owners are complaining of going through a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so (in extreme cases). That is going to poop all over the backs of your valves. Direct injection only adds to the problem, it doesn't necessarily create it.

In any case, it is recommended to get a good catch can to help out as well. I have one, and it does catch oil, but not a ton (probably because I don't lose much oil to begin with). My car doesn't lose hardly any oil between oil changes. The dipstick is still pretty much on the full mark when I change oil (at about 5,000 miles). If you lose a quart of oil between oil changes, you would want a catch can and Seafoam the intake to clean the valves once in a while.

Yes. The 'top engine cleaner' is what I was referring to. Thank you everyone for your input.

[bobby35ny]

That's probably why mobil 1 came out with the brand new ESP oil.

[waterman]

Originally Posted by bobby35ny

That's probably why mobil 1 came out with the brand new ESP oil.

Good observation.

[Badgerbimmer]

.

[Frisbey]

Originally Posted by Badgerbimmer

According to this http://www.chevrolet.com/corvette-life/engines# the LT4 engine is dual injected port and direct. Based on Savage's video this is good.

Great article!

It shows the ZR1’s LT5 as dual injection,
But don’t see it on the LT4,
.
.
.
Unless I’m blind, which is possible