[MartinLe]

I got it installed and all wired up. I set the max voltage to 14.7 and flipped dip switch one to off. I hooked up my HP Tuner and opened the VCM scanner and powered on the ignition. Here is where the problem starts.

When I step on the throttle, the "throttle position (SAE)" goes to 31.8% and goes no higher(and stays there no matter what I do with the throttle). I can hear what I think is the blade in the throttle body making some strange chattering sound and then it goes silent. The "accelerator position D' goes up and down in percentage with the depressing and releasing of the accelerator pedal. Is this how it's supposed to work?

When I try to set the ramp up voltage, I get nothing. The throttle is depressed until the "accelerator position D" is at 50%. No matter what position the dial is in, there is no change in the voltage output. I did disconnect the black and gray wires that were connected to set the max voltage output.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[LiqTenExp]

You should be looking at pedal % and not worry about throttle %. You are tapped into the pedal 0-5 VDC signal, I am assuming you go the one with pedal wiring breakout cable, right? When setting enable voltage do you have SW1 enabled and then turn it off to save? Where do you have SW3 and SW5?

[ZLE dude]

Agreed with what LiqTenExp said. One other mistake that I made when trying to set mine up was realizing that the dip switches are numbered backwards when you're looking at it. If you look closely from left to right it's 5-4-3-2-1 and on is UP. I tried setting mine up assuming the numbers went left to right without looking close enough and couldn't get it to do anything for about 20 minutes...

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by LiqTenExp

You should be looking at pedal % and not worry about throttle %. You are tapped into the pedal 0-5 VDC signal, I am assuming you go the one with pedal wiring breakout cable, right? When setting enable voltage do you have SW1 enabled and then turn it off to save? Where do you have SW3 and SW5?

I did not have sw1 on. I will try that. Thanks

Originally Posted by ZLE dude

Agreed with what LiqTenExp said. One other mistake that I made when trying to set mine up was realizing that the dip switches are numbered backwards when you're looking at it. If you look closely from left to right it's 5-4-3-2-1 and on is UP. I tried setting mine up assuming the numbers went left to right without looking close enough and couldn't get it to do anything for about 20 minutes...

I am reading the numbering from right to left. I will try again with sw1 on. Thank you.

[swisstyphoon]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

I got it installed and all wired up. I set the max voltage to 14.7 and flipped dip switch one to off. I hooked up my HP Tuner and opened the VCM scanner and powered on the ignition. Here is where the problem starts.

When I step on the throttle, the "throttle position (SAE)" goes to 31.8% and goes no higher(and stays there no matter what I do with the throttle). I can hear what I think is the blade in the throttle body making some strange chattering sound and then it goes silent. The "accelerator position D' goes up and down in percentage with the depressing and releasing of the accelerator pedal. Is this how it's supposed to work?

When I try to set the ramp up voltage, I get nothing. The throttle is depressed until the "accelerator position D" is at 50%. No matter what position the dial is in, there is no change in the voltage output. I did disconnect the black and gray wires that were connected to set the max voltage output.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Max Voltage should be set to 17V - 17.47V

[SFV1LE]

Is this device meant to be set up by a shop, while tuning? I would never try to install and configure one of these, let alone tune my car, but that's just me. I've seen so many tunes on boosted cars go wrong, engines go boom, especially due to fueling issues.

I could see myself experimenting with an old turbo Honda, STI, etc, I don't trust myself, or most shops, with my beloved ZL1.

I've heard mixed opinions on the JMS voltage booster, is it considered a rock solid solution for increased fuel that doesn't risk pump reliability or have other risk that can result in lean AFR?

I track my car on hot days at CA circuits and want to know if the modified higher-capacity fuel system using this part is as reliable as the fully-stock OEM fuel system.

[LiqTenExp]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

Is this device meant to be set up by a shop, while tuning? I would never try to install and configure one of these, let alone tune my car, but that's just me. I've seen so many tunes on boosted cars go wrong, engines go boom, especially due to fueling issues.

I could see myself experimenting with an old turbo Honda, STI, etc, I don't trust myself, or most shops, with my beloved ZL1.

I've heard mixed opinions on the JMS voltage booster, is it considered a rock solid solution for increased fuel that doesn't risk pump reliability or have other risk that can result in lean AFR?

I track my car on hot days at CA circuits and want to know if the modified higher-capacity fuel system using this part is as reliable as the fully-stock OEM fuel system.

The JMS FuelMax alone is not a solution. Proper tuning for requested fuel pressure is required. This device helps to promote stability of fuel pressure on the low side when you start pushing it.

No tuning or shop knowledge is required to install, other than being "qualified" enough to install it correctly. It will simply boost the voltage only when you hit a set Pedal position, otherwise it is at factory voltage. It is set below the maximum allowable limit without detecting a fault.

You don't need to adjust tune for it as long as you currently are meeting your requested demand. If you are at this point, you don't need this device!

If you are dropping below that, this unit will likely correct that (to an upper limit) and bring stability back, you may/will start to run rich in those areas. At this point the tune can be adjusted.

I would definitely recommend this unit once you start hitting the +150 whp, some will recommend it earlier. This is based on my own experiences of when I needed it. I'm currently in the +200whp range and have benefited from it. If you in the <+100whp range I don't think you'd benefit, low side fuel pressure should be stable in this power range, your mileage may vary and all these #s are based on data from my configuration.

[CW3SF]

I’m using it to run a higher concentration of flex fuel. I installed it and dialed it in myself with no previous hands on experience with it, just basic mechanical ability and a thorough review of YouTube install videos and the kit instructions.

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by swisstyphoon

Max Voltage should be set to 17V - 17.47V

Cool! I don't know where I got 14.47 Thank you.