[wrankin]

I ordered a 2022 1LE back in early April, and changed to a 2023 at the end of April, before I found out 1LEs were moving to FS. A couple of weeks ago, I finally got a 2023 SS 1LE allocation. I currently run a 2016 SS in FS, so I'm hoping to be a bit more competitive to the local fast guys. I will be ordering the APEX ARC-8 19" setup on black Friday, along with Falkens in a 305 / 315 staggered setup. So I have a couple of questions

• Will the 315s require the wiring harness relocation?
• Front sway bar change - Will this make much of a difference, and if so, a recommendation
• Any other recommended legal minor mods for FS?

I was also able to add the copper free brake option recommended by @apexit53

Bill

[lownslowss]

The sway bar will make a small amount of difference if any. Drive with the stocker for a while. The 1LE cars and ZL1's have the harness moved from the factory. After the sway bar and wheels/tires mods will put you in a modified class or CAMC.

[Msquared]

My 2020 SS 1LE did not have the harness relocated from the factory. I just relocated it myself recently after 315s appear to have started wearing a hole in the liner. It's easy to check, and if yours turns out to still be in the old location, just relocate it.

Most (maybe all?) top FS drivers nationally run either the BMR or Hotchkiss adjustable front bars. I run a BMR, and the advantage to it is that on its softest setting it's basically the same stiffness as stock. The disadvantage is that the center bushings have not held up well for a lot of folks. I personally inspect mine and have decided to replace just those bushings (they are cheap) once a year even if all looks well. There's a big thread on that somewhere here, and one person came up with a fix. The Hotchkiss bar has the same 1/25" outer diameter but a thicker wall thickness (both bars are hollow). So its softest setting is significantly stiffer than stock. I love the turn-in you get with stock front roll stiffness, but it seems to put power down better with at least one step stiffer front bar.

The other obvious "mod" is to get it aligned. Dial in all the camber you can in front and zero toe. In back, toe will be the limiter for camber: dial in all the camber you can while keeping 0-1/16" toe.

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by lownslowss

The sway bar will make a small amount of difference if any. Drive with the stocker for a while. The 1LE cars and ZL1's have the harness moved from the factory. After the sway bar and wheels/tires mods will put you in a modified class or CAMC.

Good approach - drive what you have, at first.

It's easy enough to check the location of the harness, and will do so when I get the car.

Thanks
Bill

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by Msquared

My 2020 SS 1LE did not have the harness relocated from the factory. I just relocated it myself recently after 315s appear to have started wearing a hole in the liner. It's easy to check, and if yours turns out to still be in the old location, just relocate it.

I have MMR 1LE replica wheels that I run sometimes, and started getting wear from 305 20s after a track alignment. I think the MRRs have a little less offset than the stock 1LE wheels. Just as you said, easy enough to relocate.

Originally Posted by Msquared

Most (maybe all?) top FS drivers nationally run either the BMR or Hotchkiss adjustable front bars. I run a BMR, and the advantage to it is that on its softest setting it's basically the same stiffness as stock. The disadvantage is that the center bushings have not held up well for a lot of folks. I personally inspect mine and have decided to replace just those bushings (they are cheap) once a year even if all looks well. There's a big thread on that somewhere here, and one person came up with a fix. The Hotchkiss bar has the same 1/25" outer diameter but a thicker wall thickness (both bars are hollow). So its softest setting is significantly stiffer than stock. I love the turn-in you get with stock front roll stiffness, but it seems to put power down better with at least one step stiffer front bar.

The other obvious "mod" is to get it aligned. Dial in all the camber you can in front and zero toe. In back, toe will be the limiter for camber: dial in all the camber you can while keeping 0-1/16" toe.

I installed the 1LE front bar on my plain SS and I have a track alignment, however they were not able to get to the full specs. A Camaro friend mentioned taking the adjustment bolts out completely and cleaning and brushing behind them and then you can get more than enough camber.

I am familiar with the BMR bars, I just never pulled the trigger. It's good that stock stiffness is the starting point.

Thanks
Bill

[apexit53]

I have had no issue with the harness but i also only race on them. i dont drive on the street with them. if you plan on that then i would move it.

as mentioned above. do a few events stock, with falkens, get a feel for it then change it

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by apexit53

I have had no issue with the harness but i also only race on them. i dont drive on the street with them. if you plan on that then i would move it.

as mentioned above. do a few events stock, with falkens, get a feel for it then change it

Sounds good.

Bill

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by wrankin

I have a track alignment, however they were not able to get to the full specs. A Camaro friend mentioned taking the adjustment bolts out completely and cleaning and brushing behind them and then you can get more than enough camber.

Here's a detailed description of how to release the hidden splines on the front strut to knuckle bolts to get max front camber with an illustration at the bottom: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...7#post10957287

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

Here's a detailed description of how to release the hidden splines on the front strut to knuckle bolts to get max front camber with an illustration at the bottom: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...7#post10957287

Thanks for your detailed response. When I get my 1LE, I will take this information with me.

Bill