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Old 07-27-2023, 08:35 AM   #1
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Long Term Supercharger reliability

I am thinking of a power upgrade this winter. I will either go stage 2 cam or supercharger. I bracket race my car 8 times a year, so I abuse the trans and axles some. Just feel the need for more power. Has anyone run an aftermarket supercharger for an extended length of time? How did your transmission hold up? I will probably need to replace mine at some point but id like to get 20k or so miles before i do.

Local speed shop quoted me $2800 for labor on a cam install. With AFM delete and cam kit the parts are $1400-1800. That's real close to the cost of one of the cheaper supercharger options (ESS, LSA, Kraftwerks, Torquestorm). I dont really want to go over 600 hp. I'd probably be fine with 440-500 RWHP. Mainly because I dont want to replace the drivetrain to make more power than that.

Im bracket racing so a centrifugal is probably easier to get off the line consistently. Hoping to spend 8500 max. Car currently has BMR rear suspension, 17" drag radials, all rear bushing replaced with poly, 3.73 gears, headers and exhaust 2.5" and CAI.
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Old 07-27-2023, 08:24 PM   #2
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There are plenty of guys on here that daily their cars at that power level. Shouldn't be any issue, boosted or N/A.
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Old 07-28-2023, 09:14 AM   #3
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I daily a Magnuson Heartbeat. No reliability problems. Also dailyed a ECS C6 with no reliability issues .There is a neat article from Magnuson on Utube by an engineer by the name of Nunn on the developement of the heartbeat.
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Old 07-28-2023, 09:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heads-up View Post
I am thinking of a power upgrade this winter. I will either go stage 2 cam or supercharger. I bracket race my car 8 times a year, so I abuse the trans and axles some. Just feel the need for more power. Has anyone run an aftermarket supercharger for an extended length of time? How did your transmission hold up? I will probably need to replace mine at some point but id like to get 20k or so miles before i do.

Local speed shop quoted me $2800 for labor on a cam install. With AFM delete and cam kit the parts are $1400-1800. That's real close to the cost of one of the cheaper supercharger options (ESS, LSA, Kraftwerks, Torquestorm). I dont really want to go over 600 hp. I'd probably be fine with 440-500 RWHP. Mainly because I dont want to replace the drivetrain to make more power than that.

Im bracket racing so a centrifugal is probably easier to get off the line consistently. Hoping to spend 8500 max. Car currently has BMR rear suspension, 17" drag radials, all rear bushing replaced with poly, 3.73 gears, headers and exhaust 2.5" and CAI.
I daily drive a cammed and stalled N/A built Camaro with no issues so far with the HP you are looking at. Unless it's raining, then I drive the other car. But if you want "easier" HP, supercharge it for the money. Only reason I didn't is I wanted a cammed build this time as the Mustang I sold was supercharged.
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Old 07-28-2023, 10:44 AM   #5
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Go ESS and never look back...
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Old 07-28-2023, 06:27 PM   #6
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How does 600 hp NA drive around town? I've never run a big cam in a fuel injected car. Can you tune it to idle and have reasonable street manners?
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Old 07-28-2023, 06:36 PM   #7
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I like the look of the ESS kit. It seems like a well put together kit that doesn't require a lot of custom fitting and not as expensive as a procharger.
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Old 07-29-2023, 10:19 AM   #8
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A centri blower car will behave better for you on the street. A mild cammed MA car drives just fine. My 19yo drives his like a maniac everyday
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Old 07-31-2023, 01:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heads-up View Post
How does 600 hp NA drive around town? I've never run a big cam in a fuel injected car. Can you tune it to idle and have reasonable street manners?
Who is this question directed at?
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Old 07-31-2023, 09:20 PM   #10
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Who is this question directed at?
I was asking about your NA cammed build and how well it worked as a semi daily driver. Idle quality, street manners etc..
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Old 08-01-2023, 09:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racesloth View Post
Go ESS and never look back...
With such a low goal of only 600hp or so, I would say stick with an Eaton/Roots type blower ( or indeed just tune n/a )

It will just feel faster and more responsive everywhere.

If maybe 700+, then yes I'd also say centri.
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Old 08-01-2023, 11:11 AM   #12
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If you check my members car journal in my signature, I am currently adding a Torqstorm to my 2011 LS3/M6 car. The kit seems really cheap at its starting price of around $4200 and thats with 85lb injectors, zl1 fuel pump and ATI balancer upgrade... But then you add $1800 for a proper intercooler setup from Mr.Bling Motorsports... you could make your own or buy the universal kit for roughly $500. Then you need money for things like Windshield washer fluid reservoir(Chase Bays $130), Proper pcv style catch can(mightymouse $450), Boost a pump $400, dyno tune $600+, Not including things like coolant, oil change, Radiator hose extensions, tool rentals to do it yourself... I am into my Torqstorm probably for the same cost as a Whipple or a Magnuson kit...And it will make less power... My tuner claims that on a stock LS3/M6 car the kit will make ballpark of 520-530 rwhp with a zlq pump and BAP, he said with a BTR centrifugal cam it would be closer to 600rwhp....

I really wish I just did the cam first. Or saved my money and did a more simple, power capable setup like a Whipple/Magnuson roots blower. Will be finished with my car in hopefully the next few weeks and hope to have it on the dyno.
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Old 08-01-2023, 07:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heads-up View Post
I was asking about your NA cammed build and how well it worked as a semi daily driver. Idle quality, street manners etc..
Oh, ok. Yeah she drives like pretty much stock with the 4500 stall I have in the trans. Before that had a 3200 and it was fine. Idles right at 950-1000 on a cold start then comes down to around 850-900 when she is warmed up. I have a big cam so she rocks and rolls a lot! lol. Even if I drive the car in "manual mode" in first gear when the converter is locked through a parking lot, she is fine, no bucking or jerking. I usually leave it in second gear or "sport mode" and the converter is unlocked. All in all for the power and cam I have she is very docile around town and in stop and go. It's all in how everything is tuned. Get her out on the open road and whack the throttle and she becomes possessed!! She's a monster!! And fun. Wouldn't trade her for nothing..
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Last edited by 1JEWLDSSRS; 08-02-2023 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 08-02-2023, 05:44 PM   #14
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I have a 2010 That I did the heads/cam/headers/supercharger (Magnuson Jack shaft TVS2300) and other supporting mods back in 2010. It has been making 700+ rwhp all that time last Dyno less then a year ago it made 733 RWHP. It has broken 1 rear diff and I now have a ZL1 diff in it. It ate a few clutches in the early days till I put in the LPE LS9 +20% twin disk, only down side I have found to this clutch is it likes to kill Slaves every few years. You will also want to do some rear suspension upgrades and Motor mounts, BMR can get you all set on that. LS3's are very strong as long as you tune the car well, and stay on top of oil changes.
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