[Hyper1SS]

Looking for torque specs for the Brembo brake bolts and brake lines?

[Alpha1BC]

Fronts:
Caliper to knuckle: 150 Nm + 15 to 30 degrees + BLUE thread locker
Banjo bolt: 40 Nm + new crush washers
Bleed screw: 17-20 Nm

Rears:
Caliper to knuckle: 125 Nm + BLUE thread locker
Banjo bolt: 40 Nm + new crush washers
Bleed screw: 17-20 Nm

[Hyper1SS]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Fronts:
Caliper to knuckle: 150 Nm + 15 to 30 degrees + BLUE thread locker
Banjo bolt: 40 Nm + new crush washers
Bleed screw: 17-20 Nm

Rears:
Caliper to knuckle: 125 Nm + BLUE thread locker
Banjo bolt: 40 Nm + new crush washers
Bleed screw: 17-20 Nm

Thank you for the information

[kropscamaro16]

even with a breaker bar its pretty hard to knock those front caliper bolts off lol getting em back on is easy but off is damn hard

[tmalaquin]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Fronts:
Caliper to knuckle: 150 Nm + 15 to 30 degrees + BLUE thread locker
Banjo bolt: 40 Nm + new crush washers
Bleed screw: 17-20 Nm

Rears:
Caliper to knuckle: 125 Nm + BLUE thread locker
Banjo bolt: 40 Nm + new crush washers
Bleed screw: 17-20 Nm

I read somewhere that front caliper bolts are TTY - thoughts ?

[5.M0NSTER]

Whatever you do don't overtighten the bleeder valves. Those calipers are aluminum, not steel. Hand tighten with a small wrench only. None of the tools I have are accurate at that low of a torque value. This mistake has cost me a a new set of front calipers last year.

[Stephen12ZL1]

you don't need to torque the bleeders as stated....firm plus a little is adequate!

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by tmalaquin

I read somewhere that front caliper bolts are TTY - thoughts ?

They are NOT TTY bolts. They are Torque-To-Angle. There is a difference.

From the 2022 service manual:
BRAKE SYSTEM FASTENER TORQUES.pdf

[cdb95z28]

Caliper R&R from service manual:

BRAKE CALIPER FRONT J6H.pdf

[tmalaquin]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Caliper R&R from service manual:

Attachment 1094128

I know the difference… Thanks anyway.

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by tmalaquin

I read somewhere that front caliper bolts are TTY - thoughts ?

No, as stated above they are torque + angle. No harm in replacing them, but it's not needed by any means. This type of spec is only used to be more robust to get the target clamp force if there's any galvanic corrosion or other gunk built up in the threads.

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Whatever you do don't overtighten the bleeder valves. Those calipers are aluminum, not steel. Hand tighten with a small wrench only. None of the tools I have are accurate at that low of a torque value. This mistake has cost me a a new set of front calipers last year.

I've been using 17 Nm for the last 4 years on mine with no issues whatsoever. Unfortunately, any of the 3/8 torque wrenches I've seen struggle to accurately hit torques that low because it's right at the bottom of the range. A good 1/4 drive torque wrench should do the trick though. The bleed screw spec is right in the middle of the wrench's range.

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

you don't need to torque the bleeders as stated....firm plus a little is adequate!

I'd still recommend a torque wrench over the "snug plus a little" approach. Everyone's "snug" will be different and with the caliper being made of aluminum it'll expand at a faster rate than the steel bleed screw when heated, meaning the achieved torque/clamp load is more important when doing anything that significantly heats the calipers. I'd much rather drive a car, especially on track, with bleed screws tightened to a spec that's been designed, tested, and approved by Brembo and GM on a car warrantied for track use than risk under-tightening and get a fluid leak or worse.

[Ventmaster]

I admit I have not checked my bleeder valves to see if my "snug + a little " is way outta wack but 17Nm X 8.8075 in/lbs = 150.5 in/lbs. That's 12.5 ft/lbs.

Sounds like a lot of torque but I will put my 1/4" drive Tekton torque wrench on tomorrow and double check myself. It has a range of 10-150in/lbs. IOW- it maxes out at 16.9 Nm.

[Ventmaster]

[QUOTE=
I've been using 17 Nm for the last 4 years on mine with no issues whatsoever. Unfortunately, any of the 3/8 torque wrenches I've seen struggle to accurately hit torques that low because it's right at the bottom of the range. A good 1/4 drive torque wrench should do the trick though. The bleed screw spec is right in the middle of the wrench's range.
I'd still recommend a torque wrench over the "snug plus a little" approach. Everyone's "snug" will be different and with the caliper being made of aluminum it'll expand at a faster rate than the steel bleed screw when heated, meaning the achieved torque/clamp load is more important when doing anything that significantly heats the calipers. I'd much rather drive a car, especially on track, with bleed screws tightened to a spec that's been designed, tested, and approved by Brembo and GM on a car warrantied for track use than risk under-tightening and get a fluid leak or worse.[/QUOTE]

Completely agree with the Alpha1, but just like the Dr. always says- " you want to use the lowest effective dose" of whatever med you're discussing.
While my 1/4" drive torque wrench would be maxed out at 17Nm, and therefore less accurate. I checked and my "snug + a little" is still keeping my bleeder valves leak free after the last bleed(OK- first bleed, both sides, on all 4 wheels)and after about 1K miles. I've also bled a lot of motorcycle brakes.

I double checked the torque on them today (I didn't have a spec. to go by or would have used the wrench when I bled them), and they are at 80in/lbs or 9.0Nm. Very close to right in the middle of my wrench's range.

As I said- a torque spec is always pretty much gospel and I'm glad it is working for Alpha1, but when it comes to aluminum and brass interactions IMHO, the least torque that works will buy you as many successful bleeds as possible.
And whenever possible- always use a torque wrench, not a Dork wrench!