[cmitchell17]

I went out and got a torch and a Milwalkee 6727 1/2 Drive Impact. And I havent gotten anywhere.

I am about to break down and buy the tool but $100 seems ridiculous for a piece of metal and some bolts. I tried trying to wedge a screwdriver in but it wouldnt hold and I did'nt want to break anything so I gave up on that.

Is there any tool where you don't have to remove the starter and can just mount it to the drivers side so you can just pull the plastic cover off and put on?

Also is the starter just those 2 bolts and I can take them out and push the starter out of the way to get the tool in? Or do I have to completely take the starter out and the electrical cable and all that? Its just so hard to do anything under the car without a lift.

I'm going to order this one from Amazon since its cheaper and I should be able to get it faster:

https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Engine.../dp/B07TDLT47C

I am assuming it will work since it fits LS's and I think the bolt pattern/locations on the starters for LS1 and LT1 are the same?

[JCunningham]

disconnect the battery befor you touch the starter. it should be disconnected doing the cam anyway. im pretty sure you will be able to just push the start forward to get the tool in. hopefully you will be able to get that tool to hold. that tool will work on the LT1

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

disconnect the battery befor you touch the starter. it should be disconnected doing the cam anyway. im pretty sure you will be able to just push the start forward to get the tool in. hopefully you will be able to get that tool to hold. that tool will work on the LT1

Thanks for the help, I an supposed to get it Friday and I will report back if I can get it to work for everyone.

[00Form]

My flywheel holder looked just like that. I was able to move the starter enough so I didn't need to disconnect the wires. Definitely want to disconnect the battery. I didn't and shorted it. Hopefully there is no damage.

[JCunningham]

you can weld with that starter wire if you don't disconnect it.

[00Form]

i just installed the ATI pulley with a bolt and nut till it started to get difficult to tighten.

Then I wanted to torque it down using the old bolt and the old bolt doesn't even fit in the hole of the ATI pulley, the built in washer. What the hell???

[JCunningham]

you need something like this to install a balancer. a bolt can strip the threads in the crank https://www.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-Ha...THXB5P0FZ9CXWZ

[laynlo15]

I've already helped one guy with what to buy and its the 1200 lbs Earth Quake from Harbor Freight. It took it right off with just a little heat.

[cmitchell17]

So I got the flywheel holder tool in, you have to take the 2 13mm starter bolts out and 3 10mm bolts that hold the heat shield then it should give you enough room to move it forward. I also have the heads off and the header and cat disconnected so that might give me some extra room that you wouldn't normally have:

It doesn't look like it fits perfectly but its good enough to hold it, but sure is a lot cheaper than the other tool

So I went and tried to loosen the crank balancer bolt again with my Milwalkee 1/2 impact and it wouldn't move. I took the whole length of a jack handle and put it on the wrench and broke an extension, then I put a stronger extension and broke it. I tried heating it more this time for over a minuet, then put the impact on it and after a few seconds it finally came off.

So some oil looking stuff started leaking out after I heated it and I am really hoping it is just the bolt retaining compound melting away? I hope I didn't melt anything inside the timing cover, I don't see how I would have.

[00Form]

Glad you got it. That is a big extension. What a pain.

What I have run into and tried to explain above is that I put the ATI balancer mostly on using a similar tool as cmichell17 linked but when I tried to put the stock bolt in, the head of the bolt would not go into the hole of the ATI pulley. The opening was not large enough.

Does everyone's look like this. Do I have the wrong one? thanks

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

you need something like this to install a balancer. a bolt can strip the threads in the crank https://www.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-Ha...THXB5P0FZ9CXWZ

I have kind of the same problem, except I got a puller from Advanced auto and I got the puller to work but I had to put extensions and sockets to take up room up inside the crank hole. So I went to check to see if I could install it and the installation bolt that they provide is so large in diameter to fit in the crank hole, and the rod that threads into the crank has only about 1 in in threaded length so I almost wouldn't trust it to hold:


I saw where someone recommended the puller/installer at AutoZone, I would hate to have to order that installer nut from Amazon and wait another week to get this done.

Also, I guess we aren't supposed to mark the location of the pulley before pulling it off? Its got a keyway so I would assume not?

Oh and sorry 00Form I didn't really understand your question and thought you had the same problem, but I am putting back the stock pulley so I don't know about the ATI one.

[00Form]

Ok, just saw this post by Yosh6/ULTRAZLS1. Very helpful. Thanks!

Step 8 discusses the crank bolt. Instructions mention the stock bolt is a “one-time use” bolt. They do not mention that the stock bolt will not fit without grinding down the outside shoulder of the bolt. (The opening in the hub is too small for the shoulder.) See this post by ULTRAZLS1 for more on that as well as ARP aftermarket bolt. https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...ight=ARP+crank.

[00Form]

One last question. I didn't put anti seize on the crankshaft before installing the ATI pulley. Should I remove the pulley and add anti seize? Thanks

Edit: There was a light layer of oil on the crankshaft when I removed the stock pulley that I left on.

[EDFHOBBIES]

To think I made my own tools...

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=517100

I to couldn't get the get bolt out either.. I realized that the gun lbs is based on psi.. old gun low pressure so go over the tank and it has contacts just like your homes AC unit hold those down manually(don't get electrocuted) raised the pressure from 115 t to 140s and bamm the bolt backed right out..

No need for antisieze it's in a oil bath lol.. wasn't rust keeping it on!