[Wyzz Kydd]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

...and how many miles do you usually cover between changes?

Probably around 4,000, but that’s an estimate as I don’t pay much attention to mileage between changes.

I just looked, I’m at 38% and the dipstick shows full.

[DorkMissile]

The biggest problem people have with oil consumption / oil in the intake issues has to do with the oil level they run it at.

The capacity is 10 quarts - but given the complicated oil system that these engines have, DOD, and the oil cooling you MIGHT get 9-1/4 quarts when you drain it. People pour 10 in the top and run the thing for the rest of its life with 10.5+ quarts in it.

That extra oil turns into oil vapor once the crank and rods mash it up.

I tore my engine down for forged internals this winter, had the engine on a stand for 2 days with no plug, and once I pulled the pan and covers there was every bit of a half quart of oil in it yet. It holds a lot of oil in the oil bypass system, the lifter troughs and the cooler.

My car new once I got it home, the oil was barely into the hash marks once hot. On my first oil change, 10 quarts took me to almost over the hash marks when hot. After running a few oil changes thru it (and draining A LOT of oil out of the catch can) I started only putting 9 quarts in, starting the car, idling for a couple of minutes, and then shutting it off. I then top it off until it just BARELY touches the tip of the dipstick. Once out driving it will get just into the hash marks.

My oil consumption is almost eliminated and I barely get any oil in the catch can now.

[tmalaquin]

Dorkmissile that's good to know.
My shop overfilled again , they put 10 quarts straight and started the engine, of course reading was below marks. When I checked the morning after I was at least 0.5 quarts higher...

[DorkMissile]

This engine is actually a SOB to get a good read on the oil level. Most people are used to pouring the new oil in, running the car for a minute and shutting it off to get a reading.

If you read the Camaro manual - they want you to let it sit for a bit and THEN check the level.

[DorkMissile]

On a related note - I have my engine back together and last night I went thru the process of pre-lubing the engine by taking the pipe plug out that is behind the a/c compressor, and using a pressurized tank to "push" oil thru the system so on the first start there is plenty of lube.

When doing this I had the valley cover off, and there is a port under the valley cover that is used for the DOD system that would be the highest point in the oil system, and I kept filling the system until all the air bubbles came out. It took every bit of 1.5 Qts of oil to do so. Figure the filter holds .5-.75Qts, so there is every bit of .75qts left in the system when you take the filter off.

[Aragorn]

I just performed an oil change. After letting and it drain for an hour I put 9 1/2 quarts back in, drove it, let it sit, checked it and it was barely on the dipstick. Will probably check it one more time but I have a feeling Ill have to put the remaining half quart in.

[DorkMissile]

Originally Posted by Aragorn

I just performed an oil change. After letting and it drain for an hour I put 9 1/2 quarts back in, drove it, let it sit, checked it and it was barely on the dipstick. Will probably check it one more time but I have a feeling Ill have to put the remaining half quart in.

For me - that is the ideal spot on the dipstick

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by DorkMissile

For me - that is the ideal spot on the dipstick

I don't understand this, my "Factory Fill" was to the very top of the hash marks on the dipstick, I can't believe the factory is "overfilling" their brand engines... I've only been driving 36 years but I've always viewed the top of the hashed area of the dipstick as "Full" and the bottom of the hashed area as the "minimum acceptable level"...

[DorkMissile]

Well - I run mine just right to the end of the dip stick. Reduced the volume of trapped oil in my catch can by 90%

I too have been driving awhile, and put the oil fill on the hash marks. My car when it was new, was barely on the hash marks - so I assumed GM knew what they were doing too.

All I know is that if I run my engine up on the hash marks, it makes a lot more oil vapor in the PVC system. For myself - I am trying to do everything I can to reduce that variable in itself and the problems that come with it (primarily the detonation issues that can come from oil in the combustion chamber).

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by DorkMissile

This engine is actually a SOB to get a good read on the oil level. Most people are used to pouring the new oil in, running the car for a minute and shutting it off to get a reading.

If you read the Camaro manual - they want you to let it sit for a bit and THEN check the level.

Yup, you are right. The owners manual states to wait at least 15 minutes after the engine has been run to check the oil level - the specified level is for a system that has drain oil back, not one that is primed and full.

The GM service information on oil consumption also states the same.

[zx9rmal]

Originally Posted by DorkMissile

This engine is actually a SOB to get a good read on the oil level. Most people are used to pouring the new oil in, running the car for a minute and shutting it off to get a reading.

If you read the Camaro manual - they want you to let it sit for a bit and THEN check the level.

Actually the manual says the best method is let it sit overnight.

[Mountain]

My favorite part is when they say, "keeping the tip down".