AC/Heater Blender Door

[uvraise]

Hey guys, I haven't posted in a while, just been reading peoples threads. However, now I need some advice. I think the air blender door went as other have had happen to them. Now, my AC is trying to cool heated air from the heater core. My understanding is the job is expensive to have done and a pain in the ass to DIY.
My question is, couldn't I just either add in- line valves to the lines going to the heater core supply and return and turn them off for the summer? Or, loop a new hose from the water pump housing and disconnect the heater core all together for the summer? Does anyone know of any repercussions of either? Thanks for your time, in advance, to anyone who can respond!

[Spocktwin]

People were just discussing this recently
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=557873

[uvraise]

Awesome! Thank you very much! After posting, it looks like I can do either without any impact at all! I'm thinking that the in-line valves are the way to go. In the fall, I'll just open them back up and let the hot water flow again. It's a minor inconvenience instead of shelling out the money for the dealer fix or doing it myself.

Originally Posted by Spocktwin

People were just discussing this recently
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=557873

[sixty9fordkiller]

im going with 2 of these. Mini ball valves.


250 degrees. 250psi


My dealer is charging $1700 PLUS the cost of the windshield R&R

[uvraise]

I found a couple, 5/8"+3/4" at a local auto parts store, $17 for both.
These look sweet! Can you provide a link?

QUOTE=sixty9fordkiller;10571975]im going with 2 of these. Mini ball valves.


250 degrees. 250psi


My dealer is charging $1700 PLUS the cost of the windshield R&R[/QUOTE]

[sixty9fordkiller]

what is the inne diameter of the heater hoses?

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[sixty9fordkiller]

Originally Posted by uvraise

I found a couple, 5/8"+3/4" at a local auto parts store, $17 for both.

These look sweet! Can you provide a link?



QUOTE=sixty9fordkiller;10571975]im going with 2 of these. Mini ball valves.





250 degrees. 250psi





My dealer is charging $1700 PLUS the cost of the windshield R&R

[/QUOTE]they didnt make that valve in 5/8" diameter so im looking at this right now



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[silversleeper]

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-521...ee-Rough-Brass
It appears to be available in 3/4, which is the size of the return hose? I started looking too in case I need this repair later.

[sixty9fordkiller]

i just ordered the heater hose relocation kit from katech. Its not expensive and does the job.

https://store.katechengines.com/heat...-kit-p273.aspx


Ive been thinking , thinking, and rethinking about getting it repaired properly but $1700 is more than i want to spend on THAT at the moment but the fact is that i do need AC here in the summer and im planning on going to Vegas next weekend and id like to take this car WITH functioning cold air. So screw it....this route it is! As soon as the hoses get here, i will measure, mockup, cut, and splice the valves in

[xc_SS/RS]

How do you know if the blend door is broken? I still get cold ac so I think mine still works

[sixty9fordkiller]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

How do you know if the blend door is broken? I still get cold ac so I think mine still works

i get somewhat cold air from the center vents and slightly lukewarm air on the far left driver side vent (i havent bothered to feel what comes out of the far right went).

I can route air to the windshield defroster/defogger, leg area, leg and face. etc properly.....but the temperature of the air is nor corlf enough, nor hot enough


Dealer already diagnosed it with a faulty blend door actuator.

[weSS1LEy]

How would one prevent this? Avoid using the heater/ac position dial and just keep it in one place as much as possible?

[uvraise]

You'll know, especially if it's hot out. I had my AC system checked yesterday, everything is working perfect. The mechanic at the shop said it may be the solenoid that modulates the blending door. I can hear it working just fine. I turned my AC controls off to see if there was any temperature difference in the air coming from the vents, there was no change at all as I went from hot to cold. I turned the AC back on and the temperature did drop, but only about 15-20 degrees, 100 to 80 or so. My thought is the AC, at full blast, is trying to cool the hot air from the heater core because the blending door isn't intact. I'm installing the heater core bypass valves today, as soon as the car cools down a bit. If that doesn't work, I'm only out $17 and a half hour of time.

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

How do you know if the blend door is broken? I still get cold ac so I think mine still works

[CamaroFred]

Back in the 1970's - '80's, before A/C was standard equipment, vehicles with A/C had a vacuum controlled valve in the heater core feed line. The colder the dial was set, the more closed it was.
Our work trucks didn't have air and the flow-through ventilation pumped heat all the time.
I would go to the hardware store and buy a water shut-off, two hose adapters, and two worm clamps and put it in the feed line.
Some heat is still transferred, but not nearly as much as when the coolant circulates.
Here, in the upper midwest, it was as easy as close the valve in the spring, open it in the fall.

Now, for some reason unknown to the sane people in the world, they have done away with that vacuum shut off.

One valve is all you need. Any kind for fluids works, even the cheapest ones.
Don't buy one for natural gas, those use grease as a seal and hot coolant will flush that out.