Heater Blend Door Hack

[ariZona28]

Yes, removing side panel was an exercise in extreme frustration. Great, another piece of plastic to break. I may have invented some new obscenities. My goal is to eventually install a switch somewhere in the location of the OG (orange?) lead coming from terminal X2 15 of HVAC control module. Since this will require significant under dash exploration I will make an appointment with my Chiropractor in advance.

[Silveradoss573]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

Yes, removing side panel was an exercise in extreme frustration. Great, another piece of plastic to break. I may have invented some new obscenities. My goal is to eventually install a switch somewhere in the location of the OG (orange?) lead coming from terminal X2 15 of HVAC control module. Since this will require significant under dash exploration I will make an appointment with my Chiropractor in advance.

Yeah I had a freaking plastic ear break on the top. I have a new side panel cover in transit. The good thing is it's only like $22.00 but still.

[CamaroBarb]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

Yes, removing side panel was an exercise in extreme frustration. Great, another piece of plastic to break. I may have invented some new obscenities. My goal is to eventually install a switch somewhere in the location of the OG (orange?) lead coming from terminal X2 15 of HVAC control module. Since this will require significant under dash exploration I will make an appointment with my Chiropractor in advance.

Not enough info on that page to know. You need to know how the motors work and how the HVAC controller works.

['10CamaroDude]

There is a reason the doors are breaking at the motor end.

When you turn the blend dial all the way back to BLUE for cold, the door stops
while the motor keeps turning. Take the two back screws out of your motor, and
loosen the front one. Look at the motor assembly as you turn the blend knob
left. You will see the motor will shift position, as the door stops, but the motor
keeps turning.

You should try to avoid going ALL the way counter clockwise with the blend
setting. Once you turn your knob and see where it starts binding up, and the motor
begins to twist, back off till it straitens out, then MARK that position on your
panel. Then put the two screws back in, and tighten all the motor housing screws.


Not sure if it is a calibration setting, or just an issue with how it works.


You can take the knob off, and there are contacts under the dial. You should be able to block one
or two of the contacts at the cold side so the door stops before binding up:

I would imagine the SOLID half circle is FULL cold. Not sure which contacts you
would need to cover, but even if you can put a HARD STOP in there somewhere
so the knob stops before going all counterclockwise, so the door never binds up.

[Tony Camaro]

What about turning it all the way to the right? Will that break it too?

['10CamaroDude]

Originally Posted by Tony Camaro

What about turning it all the way to the right? Will that break it too?

From what the video showed, no, only going all cold.

['10CamaroDude]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

Yes, removing side panel was an exercise in extreme frustration. Great, another piece of plastic to break. I may have invented some new obscenities. My goal is to eventually install a switch somewhere in the location of the OG (orange?) lead coming from terminal X2 15 of HVAC control module. Since this will require significant under dash exploration I will make an appointment with my Chiropractor in advance.

I would put the interrupt switch on the power lead to the blend door. That
is right at the motor under the dash. Doing it on the main OG line, at the
X2 terminal, will cut power to all three actuators. OG splits into three
separate power lines for each actuator. So, if you wanted to go that route
then pull the fuse, put an inline fuse-holder with a switch, and do it right at
the panel.



USING the fuse you're showing. The pic is an example. Your hand is in the way, heh heh heh...

['10CamaroDude]

https://youtu.be/o2_8GUz1RMA


There's the video, just follow along, or jump to 2 minutes in, you'll get the picture.
This shows how the motor binds the door, you will see the actuator assembly
twist. This, after he replaced the door.

[drew peacock]

Originally Posted by '10CamaroDude

There is a reason the doors are breaking at the motor end.

When you turn the blend dial all the way back to BLUE for cold, the door stops
while the motor keeps turning. Take the two back screws out of your motor, and
loosen the front one. Look at the motor assembly as you turn the blend knob
left. You will see the motor will shift position, as the door stops, but the motor
keeps turning.

You should try to avoid going ALL the way counter clockwise with the blend
setting. Once you turn your knob and see where it starts binding up, and the motor
begins to twist, back off till it straitens out, then MARK that position on your
panel. Then put the two screws back in, and tighten all the motor housing screws.


Not sure if it is a calibration setting, or just an issue with how it works.


You can take the knob off, and there are contacts under the dial. You should be able to block one
or two of the contacts at the cold side so the door stops before binding up:

I would imagine the SOLID half circle is FULL cold. Not sure which contacts you
would need to cover, but even if you can put a HARD STOP in there somewhere
so the knob stops before going all counterclockwise, so the door never binds up.

wow fantastic bit of info.
thanks for the heads up

[denboy1]

OK, basic question, how do you pull the thermostat knob? Just pull them straight out?

[TommyTheCat]

Originally Posted by lemontwist

REALLY??? have you had a camaro dash out?? i have and i'm calling BS on that. there are 2 long bolts that go in from the top at the base of the windshield i didn't pull it but i can see why some think you have to. it may have gone in as modules with robots doing the heavy lifting but you are not pulling that dash out as a assembly especially without pulling the windshield.building a car on a assembly line and working on one in a garage are two different things. if you can pull it without removing the windshield as a assembly in a garage or driveway and document it i'll give you my car,and that is no BS!

You just cut the 2 bolts that are longer than they needed to be in the first place and then you don't have to remove the windshield. Can I have your Camaro now?

[TommyTheCat]

Originally Posted by denboy1

OK, basic question, how do you pull the thermostat knob? Just pull them straight out?

No, there are screws holding them in from behind. You have to remove the whole radio/HVAC head unit. Look up a 5th gen radio replacement video to see.

['10CamaroDude]

Originally Posted by denboy1

OK, basic question, how do you pull the thermostat knob? Just pull them straight out?

The head unit does not need to come out. The head unit is separate from the
face plate/bezel.

Take the bezel off:
Remove the 12 Phillips head screws (behind the knobs) .

Remove the HVAC knobs by pulling them from the front of the faceplate
being careful not to bend the contacts on either end of the contact swiper on
the backside of each of the knobs.

Page3: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index....attachment=967

Go to like 200-250% size, you can see the feelers on the knobs, they slide across the contacts.

[Camaro2ss2010]

Originally Posted by denboy1

OK, basic question, how do you pull the thermostat knob? Just pull them straight out?

Remove center console around shifter. If you have the 4 pack gauge cluster you do not have to unplug anything As there is enough wire to move it around, I don’t but you can unplug it if you want to. There will be two screws (7mm) located under it in the very back. Once those are removed you can pull the radio out and remove the screws being referenced in the drawing.