Constant power dash fuse box

[camguynj]

Update- I did a multimeter test and found that fuses F2(DLC ), F4(DIC Cluster) and F14(Onstar) are Constant power, fuses F17 & F18 are switched power. Think I’m going with F14 as there’s more room to fit the add-a-circuit fuse

[pcguy2u]

Can I ask a question in this thread without irritating someone (have had that experience b4 )?

My Chevelle project (link below) has a 2014 SS donor and I need to install classic motors and switches for the windows.

The power windows in the 2014 SS have a plug with standing 12V/30amps (circuit 1240) in both doors via one fuse in the under hood panel that feeds both doors and it's hot all the time. That would mean the windows would work without the key.

Need to convert that power source to retained access power. I know that the console has RAP and that fuses 17 & 18 feed the two outlets with 20amps. Thinking that I would intercept circuit 1240 (30amps) (feeds both doors) somewhere; ideally in the under hood panel, but I didn't find any place that I thought would work and the fed side of 17 or 18 on the instrument fuse panel might be my best bet.

The splice will need to feed a relay that would only be hot (energized) when the key is on and that would then extend 30amps to the doors.

Looking for the simplest way out of this - any suggestions will be much appreciated.


TIA, Nick